Recent content by csanders

I'm guessing the 90541-06036 cushion is missing on my brake pedal and has been replaced by the screw, washer, and nut? Does the cushion screw or press into the brake pedal? Trying to track down why my CC is inop and I'm guessing this is the culprit. When setting the CC while driving I get three...

Pretty relieved with this oil report post-rebuild. I have about 7000 miles on the rebuilt 1FZ, and this was my first 1000+ mile oil change after multiple shorter changes with conventional 10W-40. I was curious to see how much wear I was still getting off a new block and rings, but those break-in...

I believe the alternator is actually a Denso 80 amp, but I can't read all the specs off the tag. It's got the Nippondenso bevel on the cover. The starter is a Remy, not sure on the KW. A local shop installed both about 5 years/47k miles ago. Both were working as-should when removed.

I could do the radiator for $150 and the battery cable set for $50, both in good working order. I'm a few hours from Jacksonville, but I might be able to drive down and deliver for gas money. Could also meet halfway around Brunswick or Savannah if you're ever headed north. Shoot me a PM if that...

I’ve got some leftover parts after rebuilding my 1994 FZJ80. These were pulled from my running original 1FZ-FE with 293k miles. Parts are in the Beaufort area, but I'm back and forth between the lowcountry and upstate if you'd like to pickup or meet somewhere. All OE Toyota unless noted...

Not sure how easy it'll be to get an eye back there, but the gasket on my '94 has a little tab pointing back towards the firewall. Might not be present on an aftermarket gasket, but that'd be a sure way to tell.

That's one of the accelerator cable brackets. Should be 78185-60040 for a '94. You'll have to find a used one if you want to replace it.

Yes. I had a mobile mechanic come by and evacuate my system when I was tearing down for an engine rebuild. It also gives you a chance to replace o-rings and other components in the AC system. Removing the condenser and radiator is definitely the way to go when pulling the entire drivetrain!

I'm at this step in my rebuild and I think there's a misprint in the FSM for the top engine mount nuts. 72 nm = 53 ft lbs, not 43 ft lbs. I found the torque spec for the 4 bolts that attach the transmission mount to the transmission on page AT-63 in my '94 manual at 59 nm (43 ft lbs). Compiled...

@Tyland Cruiser Awesome fix. This is a good PSA for people to check that area when doing a radiator replacement. That radiator reinforcement mount piece that connects the upper radiator support to the lower front cross member sub-assembly has a channel in it that gives access to the top of that...

Great job on the engine and documentation! I'm rebuilding the engine in my '94 and this thread has been super helpful to supplement alongside the FSM steps. I also went the new short block route and appreciate the detailed writeup. Enjoy the break-in drives!

Have both of these trucks been sold?

81952-60010 (RH) & 81962-60010 (LH). Try a domestic dealer. Should be around $20.

Thanks, that's what I'm thinking too. Only the #11 exhaust was that bad, but there are a few more that I'll replace just because I've ordered a few spares. After 300k miles, none of them are perfect, but Mud OCD is a hell of a thing.

Reviving this thread with a valve adjustment-related question. My machine shop cleaned, pressure tested, surfaced, and did a valve job on my cylinder head. They also asked for a new lifter bucket to replace my #11 exhaust bucket. The valve tip had worn a pretty deep groove inside of the bucket...