Recent content by BurnsCrew

FWIW, the Ironman rep did tell me that the 4” 80 series landcruiser shock has an internal bump stop built into it as well. That, plus I’m running timbrens in the rear. So my bottom outs are pretty cushy back there (if I do). Mostly on whoops

Does a shaft bump just keep shock from bottoming out?

I think I understand what you’re saying. Yes the bushing that goes between mounting surface to mounting surface will compress when tightening down but it’s also designed to that way. I also guess I can understand the fox argument as it’s a non compressible surface. Still, I’d rather adjust...

Good point, and why it’s important to know the same brands 100 series shock lengths vs same brands 80 series shock lengths. (100 series designed shock would be your safe callapsed length) Once you figure that out then draw your conclusions on collapsed and extended length differences from there...

So if you wanna space down your bumpstops, run the 6” shock. That 30 mm would be about 1.15” space down needed. My 35s rubbed the inner fender wells on the back with stock sized bumps and spacing them down helped eliminate this. Which is why I ultimately ran the 4” shock with the axle side...

Yea. I believe these were the exact ones I used. It is a great deal vs slee. I have a 2005. I believe 1998/1999 models have different rear brake lines. (Just FYI) As far as install, I think it was fairly straight forward. I do not think I really had to modify anything, but I did bend the axle...

That’s right. 🍻

One thing to consider, you can have all the downtravel you can muster, but it will be useless if your springs are not applying down pressure. (Hanging free)

The 4mm difference is less than 1/4”. it would basically be 1/4” more droop than I currently have with the 4” shocks and 2” chop. Just something to consider when you’re adjusting your bump stop height. I wouldn’t think it would cause any issues with the abs lines.

Yes this is correct math if your shock mount relocate and/or ahc spacers are 2”. I am unsure the exact differences between the 4” shock travel and the 6” shock travel. I would get the exact measurements and do the math. 50mm is 2”. Just to make sure it’s not a 56mm difference or something. You...

Interesting, I did not know that the OEM style sway bar was a torsion style sway bar. I’ll need to do some more research into that to get a better understanding of how it is/how it works. Well, since we are talking about a 100 series with only a live rear axle, the body rolls much less. It’s...

One issue I ran into with the sway bar, was it contacted the rear shock body on droop and limited down travel. No good. This may have been due to the size of the IMFCP shock body. With Alex’s tough Dog suspension, I don’t think he encountered this.

My buddy did the cutting and welding of the shock mount relocation on mine (no photos) and these are the photos of his truck. He did his first, and I liked the idea so we also did it on mine with the longer shocks. And here are some close ups. I believe he ran a sway bar for awhile afterwards...

Some additional undercarriage shots. These were before I did the shock mount relocation, also before I added the eimkeith PHB correction kit.

Interesting. I disagree. Also, that appears to be an anti rock bar. That’s actually a torsion bar actuated sway bar, very different than our OEM set up. But the data still proves more droop without a sway bar vs even with a sway bar. Least drop: sway bar More droop: anti rock Most droop: no sway 🍻