Did they change at a particular time?. I was under the impression they used tapered nuts on steel wheels and the other nuts were fitted to alloy wheels, well, on hiluxs anyway.
I think if you had proper injectors set up for it, and a pump that was a good match it could be different. Mine was getting 12.5L per hundred, and my 1kz uses 11. Haha
Yeah it all comes down to money. I was lucky as I had a 1kd with a melted piston as a donor. Pistons are cheap from overseas, but I used the rods from my spare engine. If I used a 1kd again I would have bought a complete engine and kept the common rail.
Maybe keep your paper clip with you, and if it plays up on the road and the check light is on, pull over and bridge the connector before you shut it down.
Yeah it's the one under the bonnet. Should have a label in it telling you what pins they are. You'll have to put the ignition on after you bridge it, forgot to mention that.
Any kind of conductive wire or metal should work. When you count them, it'll flash the check engine light. If it logged say, code 32, it'll flash 3 times, then pause momentarily and flash twice. See how you go
Sounds like it could be a dodgy tps sensor. Try bridging E1 and TE1 in the diagnostic connector and see what codes it logs. If the engine check light is coming on, it's logged something.
I had my 1kz engine run away, was my own fault. I incorrectly adjusted the spill control valve, so every time it injected diesel it would inject a full plunger stroke. Holy crap did it rev quick when I started it. Blocked the intake up but still kept going, had to adjust the valve to get it to...
Can you get an aluminum bell housing for the 15b, and get it modified with your old r150 bellhousing and use that? People do that here with conversions with good success