Recent content by asmara

I assume I'm not the only one (and maybe this will help some others outside the US). I imported a GCC spec LC100 with a Distributorless Ignition System (DIS). I'm troubleshooting an engine miss and started with the electrical. I thought I had a coil issue during my early testing. I also...

To add to this, I just move back to USA from Dubai in July. I shipped my household goods in March and moved into a service apartment. I just received everything last week. I understand my company had to double up on shipping costs. I shipped my cruiser in June. Arrived Mid-September. It costs me...

Just make sure you get the right part. I picked up a left side fuse box from a Dubai reseller. Looked identical. It didn't work. I had to swap it again for a GCC spec one.

Dubai has a whole industry buying Japanese RHD LCs and parting them out. You can google and try some of those places. The local ones typically ship anywhere. If you want a more established company, Land Cruiser Leather Seat Covers & Restoration Services | Land Cruiser Heaven -...

Just an diyer but - If you are seeing bubbles in the sight glass you are low on refrigerant. I'd fix that first. If it is too low, some of the safety systems may be kicking in shutting down the compressor.

Two things - 1) I had a 4runner that drove exactly like that. The problem was 'over-inflated' tires. And it wasn't much. It was years ago but it was something like anything over 33 PSI and it had all the same symptoms. A nightmare to drive. 2) I just had a bunch of suspension work done at a...

Yeah, that looks pretty clean. Set it aside and someday trace the circuit starting at the pin and see where it goes.

Looks like it is time to level up your electrical prowess. I'm assuming that is the factory connector, take a picture of the front of that connector and do a photo search on Aliexpress. Order a few new ones with pins and get an SN-58B while you are there. Cut that mess off, crimp on new pins and...

No way to really know. It could have just died.

Great news. Glad it is all working. If you have time, open the old one up and post a picture of the circuit board. I'd be curious to see if what got fried is visible (and if it was the same thing that killed mine).

So if you have continuity between 2A and the dome light, you know that wire is good. That wire goes to the ECU where it is internally switched to ground. If you unplug connector A, your dome light switch is on 'door', and you run a wire from 2A to any grounding point on the LC, your dome light...

Mine doesn't have an amp (but does have the power antenna). The stereo also only has one wire for the amp/antenna. Some stereos have two separate wires (blue and blue/white) so that the power antenna is only activated when the stereo is in radio mode. I was just trying to figure out a way that...

Check the, typically blue with white stripe, wire coming from your aftermarket radio to the amp when it is in ACC mode. See if it has power, and see if it changes in ON mode. If you have a blue wire and a blue with white stripe wire, and you connected the blue one for the amp, it could be that...

What did you actually test with the GW wire? My suggestion was to test the wire to ground with the door open (which should show continuity) and then again with the door closed (which should show an open circuit). You can't unplug the connector to check that because we are seeing if the ECU makes...

Old thread, (and technically wrong forum) but that's where Google brings you. I thought I'd add to it because this information would have helped me. Note: this is a 1FZ-FE in a 2001 GCC Spec LC100. Some additional info — the number is stamped on the block's vertical plane and runs horizontally...