replacement oem soft door weatherstripping (1 Viewer)

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They have them all the way back to the 1961 FJ40:bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:

I wonder if I buy a top if they will let me return it and pay the handling and shipping charges when it doesn't fit my 1962 FJ40 soft top.

At a $1,019 then $8.92 each for the twists plus shipping and handleing these aren't cheap. It looks like I got a pretty good deal on that used one for $200. But it did come with the factory bows.

I see they have reproduction weather stripping for the soft top doors. Someone needs to let destin know. Only $89.99 a door. that's just a little price increase from what I paid for OEM weather stripping years ago. :rolleyes:

I guess my pockets aren't deep enough or I'm to big a cheap skate to pay that much for a top. But if it did fit the FJ25 and early FJ40 soft tops I would consider it. Still a lot cheaper than 3K for the one from Badger.



I almost posted this in the 40/55 forum but I think this might be better here.
FYI I think the weather stripping was under twenty dollars for a set (2 doors) when I bought it. But at least some one is making them.
 
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the window placement has alot to be desired on their new top IMO more so than the price


I agree with you on that Johnny. The Kayline top was split between the two side windows. Not sure what the way they did it the way they did at SOR. I do know back in 1994 or 1995 I tried to order the Kayline replacement vinyl top from SOR. They told me they no longer carried the Kayline top and were having their own more original copy of the OEM canvas made. About 15 years later and this what they came up with, I'm not impressed. I bought a Kayline top from Man-A-Fre instead and have stored it inside except for the few times I've used it. I know have three Kayline tops in different shape. I would see no use in buying one of these. If I buy any top it will be canvas not vinyl and look more OEM. What is the flap over the twist for? To make it more water tight? Or is that for a more modern look. Either way I don't like it. Seems like it would flap and make noise while driving. If your looking to get a top for your OEM bows you want it as close to original as possible. If you didn't care about oriinal why not just buy a after market top that has more modern design and easier to get on and off. There about five different designs of replacement tops that I've seen in the last few years. Still waiting to see what Realsteel comes up with. But I still think Ehsan's is the best top that is in production hands down. I just wish we could get it for the early soft top model. I'm disappointed that with all the years of experience SOR has had with Land Cruisers that they don't seem to know this top won't work on the pre 64 Land Cruiser. Even the hard top models had the high B pillar that no soft top bow was ever made for.:frown:
 
That was exactly my point...it looks like an aftermarket top, and not OEM as they state...why would they make it look so...weird? :rolleyes:

So far the nicest top I've seen was the Badger top for the early Cruisers, but oh my it is expensive :eek: Still, if I were ready for a top to complete my build of an early 40, I'd get the Badger...looking forward to see if Ehsan decides to make a go at the very early top.
 
I agree that the Badger is a great top. It's just to much money for a vehicle you want to do anythIf I had a early soft top model totally restored that was in show condition I would think about it. I would be reading Johnny soft top maint. tread and spenting a lot if time on the top. At this point I thinking of making some hybrid bows that use parts from both early and later bows. One that will like me use the early soft top doors but use the later style top.
 
Went back to look at those pics some more...I still do not understand why they chose this model?
 
Opps I guess this top is closer to the Kayline than I thought. The windows are both in the side roll up part. It is not split between the windows like I posted earlier. I was cleaning the top I got this week and the top looks pretty close except the window are smaller in SOR's top. The only thing I can say about SOR top the color may be closer to OEM. When I bought my Kayline new white and black were the only colors. That may have been different in earlier years. In Johnny's OEM soft top tread in the 40/55 section someone posted a red one. STC was offering them in many colors too but I don't remember every seeing anything but white and black.:meh:
 
Compraring the two tops plus a pictures of the bows.
softtopBanner_18-big.jpg
soft top and bows 007.jpg
soft top and bows 002.jpg
 
Alil soap on the channel and rubber it will slide thru nicely...if you use a lube like spray sylicone...if it gets on the canvas it will be there for a long time...like getting a oil stain on your jeans.

if you look at the top corners of the door the metal of the channel is bent in (alil angle piece) bend those out on the front side and rear side on the top of the door...and thats where the weatherstripping will feed in...then when the stripping is all in trim the weatherstripping and bend the tabs back in to lock the weathersripping in place


:) https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/282091-rebuilding-factory-soft-doors.html
:) https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/98570-oem-canvas-doors-finally-done.html
 
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if you look at the top corners of the door the metal of the channel is bent in (alil angle piece) bend those out on the front side and rear side on the top of the door...and thats where the weatherstripping will feed in...then when the stripping is all in trim the weatherstripping and bend the tabs back in to lock the weathersripping in place


:) https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/282091-rebuilding-factory-soft-doors.html
:) https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/98570-oem-canvas-doors-finally-done.html

nice :D

thanks man, i knew there had to be a clever trick :)

nice work on your channel fabrication, that looks difficult :)
 
Also Johnny...

How did you go about stretching the canvas evenly for the doors?
Did you glue it in before mounting the channel so it would remain tight/ taut >?

If you have any insight, or even photos documenting it i would be grateful :D
I remember you mentioning that there was an article in toyota trails about it, but i have not been able to find the issue :(
 
Also Johnny...

How did you go about stretching the canvas evenly for the doors?
Did you glue it in before mounting the channel so it would remain tight/ taut >?

If you have any insight, or even photos documenting it i would be grateful :D
I remember you mentioning that there was an article in toyota trails about it, but i have not been able to find the issue :(

What he said. I have to cover my '63 FST doors someday soon and I would like some insight too.
 

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