rust proofing tools

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east coast Canada
so where is a good spot to get a kit ? Tools like they use at Krown and Rust Check . I did the body on the bj62 so I want to preserve it now . Use to get Rust Check , but after having the body apart and seeing the hidden spots that they missed I know I can do a much more thorough job if I do it .
Idid the rocker panels and rear wheel arches with rust check when I had everything apart...this is the best way to get the rear arches done. Take off the rear interior panels and you have the best access .

Daryl
 
Your right Daryl you do have to take the panels off to properly ensure all the rust is treated.

I once did see a neet little spray attachment that sprayed 360 degrees through little holes in the tip, it was a long wand. I have not seen it on Lordcos shelfs lately but I am sure they can get it for you.

You could be extensions to slide it into panels completely or frame rails.

Rob
 
after watching the guy in Elmwood Ontario do my LJ71 while i was there, i have to say the wands he had were excellent. he also had some custom modified ones for tight areas that he made up himself...
as for removing the panels, realise that the crap gets all over the inside of the truck when panels are not there to stop the spray... so cover the inside properly...
cheers
 
Does that stuff really work? Which one do you recomend? Is this for new vehicles only?
I recently bought an HJ61 and would like to keep the rust away.
 
FJota said:
Does that stuff really work? Which one do you recomend? Is this for new vehicles only?
I recently bought an HJ61 and would like to keep the rust away.


yes it works, not only on new vehicles.

most important inside the rear arches and rockers. your hj61 is ripe waiting to rust. getter in there, or goodbye....

any sitcky oil that penetrates is good. I like LPS products, start with #2 then go to #3. 3 is the thickest. come in gallon size. I would use a siphon gun on a air line

Daryl do you ever use Dinitrol???? crazy stuff for extreme salt float planes. Also used extensively by Boeing. Very good corrosion proofer....
 
I just "aquired" a gallon of lps #3. Blew it in all the nooks and crannys with my engine cleaning wand hooked up to my air compressor. All the fly guys love this crap its my first time using it. Smells pretty and tastes sweet. Hopefully it works have you used it before BB?

Some of those cleaning wands like mine have an eductor setup and the tip unscrews. I made a piece out of copper tubing that screws on the end with a swage fitting. Its real skinny and flexy to get up in the tight spots seemed to work well and cost me all of $15 for the wand and scammed the tubing from work. Also made a piece to fit in the drilled holes in the fenders and rockers. Used the "syringe" for a grease pump and another swage fitting ,the syringe was $3 at walmart . This worked real nice and cheap to boot.

Cheers

Challis
 
i really want ot use Krown on my vehicles but i can not seem to find a dealer here in Calgary...
shame.
 
I would suggest it to there head office. See how close on is too you, it is probably worth the trip.
 
hummm...
after seeing how messy you get doing this job, i would rather pay someone else to do it...
can you picture what your lungs must look like after a few years?
thanks for the idea but i will pass...
cheers
 
silvercrusher said:
I just "aquired" a gallon of lps #3. Blew it in all the nooks and crannys with my engine cleaning wand hooked up to my air compressor.


Does the cleaning wand have some sort of pressure take?? Or is there enough suction from the compressed air going through the wand to suck up the rust proofing liquid and spray it??

I want to do my own rust proofing as well this year so I was thinking of doing the same.

Thanks,
Todd
 
I'm just now getting to painting my 'new' doors (old doors were totally rotted out in the bottoms from the PO 'fixing' the rust by putting duct tape over the bottoms, thus trapping more moisture) and they have some rust in the lower seams. I have wire wheeled, sanded, Mar-Hyde'd, and Rust bulleted everything I can reach, but I'm sure that's not everything there is. Any south of the border types know if there is a product like this I can get at a Kragen or somesuch? Marine supply store?

Thanks,
B
 
silvercrusher said:
I just "aquired" a gallon of lps #3. Blew it in all the nooks and crannys with my engine cleaning wand hooked up to my air compressor. All the fly guys love this crap its my first time using it. Smells pretty and tastes sweet. Hopefully it works have you used it before BB?


Challis

yes I have, but mostly on aircraft. I spray it on all the hinges. My aircraft are seaplanes, so the salt really takes a kickin on the alum. this stuff is sticky enought to withstand the spray hitting them.

but it does need occasional respraying. I think on a car two sprays a year would be sufficent.

especially to get it into the front half of the rear wheel arch. its a tight nook and cranny. I think you have to pull the rear interior to get it down there, it should flow from the top of th wheel well upper to the rocker panel,

should also almost flow out of the lap joint on the edges of the wheel well.

spray cans with a straw help.

for the rockers, buy a unibit, drill a large hole in them under the sill molding. maybe .500 diameter. then you can spray in every direction to flood the rocker. then buy a plastic plug to snap in the hole. cover with the sill.

REPEAT a couple times a year. If people did this when the trucks first came out we would not have so many rust issues. SO JDM people take NOTE.
 
Rustproofing tools

Hi
Check ou the web site www.eastwood.com. Follow links to rust treatment. For $49.99us they have an air powered gun with a 30"flexible wand,20" ridgid wand and various other short and angled tips. They also sell the plugs for the 1/2 inch holes you drill in the body. 25 for $4.49. If you like the "Fluidfilm" product I noticed it for sale at Princess Auto in a one gallon size.
 
brownbear said:
Daryl do you ever use Dinitrol???? crazy stuff for extreme salt float planes. Also used extensively by Boeing. Very good corrosion proofer....

When you can, can you find the local retailer or wholesaler please? What is the product number used on the salt float planes? I have not had any luck with their website.

I always use a dual cartridge resp when spraying any misting inhibitor. I can't imagine it being too good for your lungs.

You can access the rockers from the underside on the 6* and 7* series trucks. There are small plugs at the very bottom, and larger ones on the rocker uppers. You can also access the B piller from the seatbelt attachment area. You can either drill the doors, or pop off the inner panels. Removing the rear taillights gives access to the rear quarters, and keeps the mist out of the truck. Removing the rear side panels gives access to the wheel well arch on the 6*'s and 7*'s. Stick the flexible wand down the arch, and it will mist to the rocker (which you got from the bottom). Pull up while misting and you will get the entire arch. You can pull the plugs to the body mounts at the front cab area by the doors, and the rear sill, and access those hidden areas that rust. You can pull plugs to the front body mounts from the underside too, and get that area. Use a good creeping oil on all the seams in the underside, let creep in, then seal with a heavier wax base. Make sure you access the very front fender bodymount area on the 6* and 7* as these are prone.

Lordco does sell a misting gun/hose set-up, which works okay.

The A piller is pretty much the only area you should have to drill. to access. I know on the 7* series you can remove the visors and access the windshield cavity from there. I have not pulled a 6* series on to see yet. On the 7* series with flip down windsheidl frame it would be an idea to lift the top enough to fold down the frame and get the entire bottom rail, as these are prone to rusting.

hth's

gb
 
brownbear said:
yes it works, not only on new vehicles.

most important inside the rear arches and rockers. your hj61 is ripe waiting to rust. getter in there, or goodbye....

any sitcky oil that penetrates is good. I like LPS products, start with #2 then go to #3. 3 is the thickest. come in gallon size. I would use a siphon gun on a air line

Daryl do you ever use Dinitrol???? crazy stuff for extreme salt float planes. Also used extensively by Boeing. Very good corrosion proofer....


Yes Brownbear , I have used dinitrol and it is good stuff and kind of expensive but cheaper than redoing the body !!! :)

Have used gallons and gallons of LPS 3 on a/c and used it on my 72 240z , good stuff also
.
Fluid film is a good product , seems that way anyway , I have never used it but it gets used alot here on the RUST COAST . :mad:

Rust check sells alot beter here than Krown , used Krown once and was not very happy.

Have to do something soon as salt should start flying here in a couple of months .. :mad:

Daryl
 
when i did the 71 there is one spot just at the outside of the read door step on the floor that needs drilling. there is 3 pieces of metal that all converge at the same spot.
this is probably why the 70 series rust here.
cheers
 

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