kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
My trusty 2F needed some new spark plugs so I figured it was time to replace the motor with this. 
My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kevinmrowland
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #2
Thanks to the info on Mud I “think” I have a good understanding of what to do. I want to detail the work on here and be able to get feedback on the project that others can utilize for attempting the same swap.
The motor:
G&S import, originally purchased by Michael Guenther then sold to me (thanks Michael!)
1HZ, 1HD-T turbo and intake
These are the majority of the issues I have thought of and some of my thoughts on how to tackle them.
Engine placement:
Pull old motor, cut off motor mounts, mount new motor to existing cross member (already a H55 truck) replace radiator and shroud (possibly upside down), line motor up with radiator and layout for new engine mounts.
Radiator ended up being moved down as well to help engine placement
Clutch:
Slave cylinder is now on the same side as the master, I am thinking that I can find a really long stainless line and just run a flex line right to the slave. Any idea on a source?
Summit racing was a great source for the lines and fittings, love the new system, way simpler, cleaner and easier to work on than the old hard lines
Fuel:
Racor 400 series filter with a built in priming pump. 60s have a return line already, so no problem there. I will upgrade the rubber lines for bio later. Will I need a pusher pump? (walbro?)
Upon the advice of those wiser than myself, I installed a simple pusher pump, for how easy it is to instal there is not really any reason not to
Alternator:
According to Sheldon a 93-97 FZJ80 alternator is a bolt up swap for 12v alternator. Thanks Sheldon!
The rest of the motor (glow plugs, starter) is already 12v.
1FZ Alt fits perfectly, however, the 60 fusible link does not handle the higher amps of the HZ alt (almost twice as many as the 2F) I was slowly loosing continuity across the fusible link due to overheating it.
Clean air:
I have a filter canister from a 70 series and from a 3FE, they are very similar, I plan on using a combination of the two. The 70 series air filter appears to be exactly the same size as a US spec 3FE filter, so available here in the states.
70 series top can and 3F lower can worked nicely. I also purchased a 1FZ Toyota air filter, the part number between the 1HD-T and 1FZ are the same, very nice filter, good airflow and it is washable
Gas pedal:
The 2F uses a mechanical linkage, the HZ a cable. I was very concerned about this until I realized that the FJ62 has a throttle cable. I pulled a gas pedal and throttle cable from my Dads parts 62 (thanks Pops!) and it is almost a direct bolt in swap. The cable itself fits perfectly in the HZ holder and the pedal assembly will bolt to my firewall.
Works very well, nice and smooth.
Tach signal:
This may seem like a small issue, just put an aftermarket tach in, however; the 60 tach gets its signal from the coil, so does the AC amplifier, I am hopping that the red wire from the injection pump sends the same kind of pulse as the coil did. I have a spare tach to hook to the wire and see what happens. If I can get the tach to read properly then it only stands to reason that the AC amplifier would respond to the same signal.
Red wire does not send the same kind of pulse. Dakota Digital translator is installed along with a VDO flywheel sensor to feed the tach.
AC:
This is directly related to the tach working or not. If my tach plan does not work, what do you suggest? Is there a diesel AC amplifier that I can plug into my AC unit?
62 amp installed, no coil signal needed, plug&play. Necessitates turning off the AC upon shut-down so that when you restart the starter does not turn the AC pump. Can be avoided by running a starter magnetic switch spur wire to the spade terminal on the amp, effectively shuts down amp when starter is engaged. Since the tach works with the translator the 60 amp also works just fine.
AC pump:
The motor has no AC pump bracket so I need to scrounge one of those up. I have a 3FE AC pump that I have heard might fit, any word on this? If not, then do I need to source an HZ pump? Does anyone have any photos that show an HZ AC setup?
The 3FE pump bolts to the 1HZ bracket, but the pulleys do not line up properly. The only pump that seems to work is the 1HZ. I was able to make a combination of the 3FE and 2F AC lines work. The 3FE AC pump manifold bolts directly to the 1HZ pump for a good place to start.
Fuel filler neck:
Needs to have the restrictor removed. I will drill out the spot welds, remove the restrictor and weld the holes shut or source a filler neck from an HJ60.
Easy mod, just be sure to drill the spot welds out completely and the restrictor pushes right out.
Exhaust:
I don’t know.
I am hopping to find a HD-T exhaust elbow with the flange to bolt on to the turbo, but then I need to source the doughnut gasket as well. Any ideas?
For the time being I plan on running a 2.5” crossover pipe under the bell housing and connecting to my existing exhaust.
Went straight back and out in front of the rear tire. No muffler, it sounds fine, people comment on how quiet it is for a Diesel, and when I tell them it has no muffler, they can not believe it. Got a generic 2.5" doughnut from NAPA and custom made a bolt flange for the front of the pipe.
Heater hoses:
At first glance through the manual they appear to be in almost the exact same orientation as the 2F hoses, cool.
Almost better than stock.
PS:
Pump is on the same side, at first glance it appears that the high pressure line will bolt right up.
High pressure line does not bolt right up, but the 1FZ high pressure line does.
Vacuum:
There is a vacuum pump on the motor, I should just need vacuum for the brake booster, will I need to run a vacuum canister for this application?
As is made very clear in the below posts, yes you should have a vacuum canister.
Pyro/Boost
Manifold is already tapped to the pyro (pre turbo) I need to hook up a boost gauge since I do not know what the turbo is set for. What is the best location/ method for this?
Installed another pyro, post turbo, put a little tee into the boost compensator vacuum line for the boost.
All the little stuff that will nickel and dime me to death:
Take it with a smile.
Until the bill showed up
The motor:
G&S import, originally purchased by Michael Guenther then sold to me (thanks Michael!)
1HZ, 1HD-T turbo and intake
These are the majority of the issues I have thought of and some of my thoughts on how to tackle them.
Engine placement:
Pull old motor, cut off motor mounts, mount new motor to existing cross member (already a H55 truck) replace radiator and shroud (possibly upside down), line motor up with radiator and layout for new engine mounts.
Radiator ended up being moved down as well to help engine placement
Clutch:
Slave cylinder is now on the same side as the master, I am thinking that I can find a really long stainless line and just run a flex line right to the slave. Any idea on a source?
Summit racing was a great source for the lines and fittings, love the new system, way simpler, cleaner and easier to work on than the old hard lines
Fuel:
Racor 400 series filter with a built in priming pump. 60s have a return line already, so no problem there. I will upgrade the rubber lines for bio later. Will I need a pusher pump? (walbro?)
Upon the advice of those wiser than myself, I installed a simple pusher pump, for how easy it is to instal there is not really any reason not to
Alternator:
According to Sheldon a 93-97 FZJ80 alternator is a bolt up swap for 12v alternator. Thanks Sheldon!
The rest of the motor (glow plugs, starter) is already 12v.
1FZ Alt fits perfectly, however, the 60 fusible link does not handle the higher amps of the HZ alt (almost twice as many as the 2F) I was slowly loosing continuity across the fusible link due to overheating it.
Clean air:
I have a filter canister from a 70 series and from a 3FE, they are very similar, I plan on using a combination of the two. The 70 series air filter appears to be exactly the same size as a US spec 3FE filter, so available here in the states.
70 series top can and 3F lower can worked nicely. I also purchased a 1FZ Toyota air filter, the part number between the 1HD-T and 1FZ are the same, very nice filter, good airflow and it is washable
Gas pedal:
The 2F uses a mechanical linkage, the HZ a cable. I was very concerned about this until I realized that the FJ62 has a throttle cable. I pulled a gas pedal and throttle cable from my Dads parts 62 (thanks Pops!) and it is almost a direct bolt in swap. The cable itself fits perfectly in the HZ holder and the pedal assembly will bolt to my firewall.
Works very well, nice and smooth.
Tach signal:
This may seem like a small issue, just put an aftermarket tach in, however; the 60 tach gets its signal from the coil, so does the AC amplifier, I am hopping that the red wire from the injection pump sends the same kind of pulse as the coil did. I have a spare tach to hook to the wire and see what happens. If I can get the tach to read properly then it only stands to reason that the AC amplifier would respond to the same signal.
Red wire does not send the same kind of pulse. Dakota Digital translator is installed along with a VDO flywheel sensor to feed the tach.
AC:
This is directly related to the tach working or not. If my tach plan does not work, what do you suggest? Is there a diesel AC amplifier that I can plug into my AC unit?
62 amp installed, no coil signal needed, plug&play. Necessitates turning off the AC upon shut-down so that when you restart the starter does not turn the AC pump. Can be avoided by running a starter magnetic switch spur wire to the spade terminal on the amp, effectively shuts down amp when starter is engaged. Since the tach works with the translator the 60 amp also works just fine.
AC pump:
The motor has no AC pump bracket so I need to scrounge one of those up. I have a 3FE AC pump that I have heard might fit, any word on this? If not, then do I need to source an HZ pump? Does anyone have any photos that show an HZ AC setup?
The 3FE pump bolts to the 1HZ bracket, but the pulleys do not line up properly. The only pump that seems to work is the 1HZ. I was able to make a combination of the 3FE and 2F AC lines work. The 3FE AC pump manifold bolts directly to the 1HZ pump for a good place to start.
Fuel filler neck:
Needs to have the restrictor removed. I will drill out the spot welds, remove the restrictor and weld the holes shut or source a filler neck from an HJ60.
Easy mod, just be sure to drill the spot welds out completely and the restrictor pushes right out.
Exhaust:
I don’t know.
I am hopping to find a HD-T exhaust elbow with the flange to bolt on to the turbo, but then I need to source the doughnut gasket as well. Any ideas?
For the time being I plan on running a 2.5” crossover pipe under the bell housing and connecting to my existing exhaust.
Went straight back and out in front of the rear tire. No muffler, it sounds fine, people comment on how quiet it is for a Diesel, and when I tell them it has no muffler, they can not believe it. Got a generic 2.5" doughnut from NAPA and custom made a bolt flange for the front of the pipe.
Heater hoses:
At first glance through the manual they appear to be in almost the exact same orientation as the 2F hoses, cool.
Almost better than stock.
PS:
Pump is on the same side, at first glance it appears that the high pressure line will bolt right up.
High pressure line does not bolt right up, but the 1FZ high pressure line does.
Vacuum:
There is a vacuum pump on the motor, I should just need vacuum for the brake booster, will I need to run a vacuum canister for this application?
As is made very clear in the below posts, yes you should have a vacuum canister.
Pyro/Boost
Manifold is already tapped to the pyro (pre turbo) I need to hook up a boost gauge since I do not know what the turbo is set for. What is the best location/ method for this?
Installed another pyro, post turbo, put a little tee into the boost compensator vacuum line for the boost.
All the little stuff that will nickel and dime me to death:
Take it with a smile.
Until the bill showed up
Last edited:
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #3
Can anybody tell me what this electric thing on the intake is for? It does not seem to show up in the FSM, seems to be part of the glow plug system.
I was under the impression that the small sensor in the background of the first pic was the water temp sensor, if that is the case what is the sensor behind the oil filter in the second pic? Do the HZs have an oil temp sensor? The oil pressure sender is just like the 2F.
I was under the impression that the small sensor in the background of the first pic was the water temp sensor, if that is the case what is the sensor behind the oil filter in the second pic? Do the HZs have an oil temp sensor? The oil pressure sender is just like the 2F.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #4
Ok, last one for the night, very exited, but I still have to work tomorrow.
Do diesel tanks need this vent thing-a-ma-jig? I would like to remove it if I can.
Do diesel tanks need this vent thing-a-ma-jig? I would like to remove it if I can.
Well the big day is here
Clutch,I used a RHD BJ70 line,you should be able to use a LHD BJ60 line.
Fuel,no real reason to run a pusher pump,Toyota doesnt.Unless the transfer pump in the inj pump is worn out.
Throttle cable. Mine is 10mm too long and I dont think I get full throttle,being LHD yours maybe different.
AC amplifier,not sure what you mean. Mine had no relation to the tach and works fine.
Fuel filler. Mine soon become mangled trying to remove the restriction. I got one off a BJ71 and it was identical apart from the restriction
Exhaust. I think the BJ60 has the exhaust exiting the LH side and swaps over behind the T/CASE. Anyway ,thats how I did mine.
I didnt want it under the bell housing. It was simple for the shop to custom make an S bend
Heater hoses, one faces the opposite way so I used some U shaped hoses but you could fit the HZJ70/80 outlets at the firewall onto the 60 series I think if you want the factory look
Vacuum. You can get away with no reservoir but if the engine stops you lose power braking instantly. The reservoir gives you one good pedal of braking
That thing on the manifold is a temp probe. I think that it and the oil temp sensor help decide how long to glow the engine for
There are 2 coolant sensors,one on the block and one on the radiator outlet.
I plugged in the 3F temp wire to the radiator outlet sensor. (aussie spec vehicle take the coolant temp at the thermostat on 2F/3F but you could still use yours from the cyl head to plug in there i think)
Im not 100% sure if a 1HZ uses the block coolant sensor for the gauge or for the glow system.
My HZJ75 sensor wire is cut at the radiator outlet but the gauge seems to work ok and so does the glow system
The solenoid wire on your carb can be connected to the solenoid on the pump
Vent thing a majig. I didnt remove mine ,assuming that I have one,and everything works ok
I would leave it unless you have a full understanding of what it does.I cant find anything in the manual(s)
The tach signal from the pump is different to the alt signal. My auto electrician says there are places that can mod the gauge to accept another signal.
Clutch,I used a RHD BJ70 line,you should be able to use a LHD BJ60 line.
Fuel,no real reason to run a pusher pump,Toyota doesnt.Unless the transfer pump in the inj pump is worn out.
Throttle cable. Mine is 10mm too long and I dont think I get full throttle,being LHD yours maybe different.
AC amplifier,not sure what you mean. Mine had no relation to the tach and works fine.
Fuel filler. Mine soon become mangled trying to remove the restriction. I got one off a BJ71 and it was identical apart from the restriction
Exhaust. I think the BJ60 has the exhaust exiting the LH side and swaps over behind the T/CASE. Anyway ,thats how I did mine.
I didnt want it under the bell housing. It was simple for the shop to custom make an S bend
Heater hoses, one faces the opposite way so I used some U shaped hoses but you could fit the HZJ70/80 outlets at the firewall onto the 60 series I think if you want the factory look
Vacuum. You can get away with no reservoir but if the engine stops you lose power braking instantly. The reservoir gives you one good pedal of braking
That thing on the manifold is a temp probe. I think that it and the oil temp sensor help decide how long to glow the engine for
There are 2 coolant sensors,one on the block and one on the radiator outlet.
I plugged in the 3F temp wire to the radiator outlet sensor. (aussie spec vehicle take the coolant temp at the thermostat on 2F/3F but you could still use yours from the cyl head to plug in there i think)
Im not 100% sure if a 1HZ uses the block coolant sensor for the gauge or for the glow system.
My HZJ75 sensor wire is cut at the radiator outlet but the gauge seems to work ok and so does the glow system
The solenoid wire on your carb can be connected to the solenoid on the pump
Vent thing a majig. I didnt remove mine ,assuming that I have one,and everything works ok
I would leave it unless you have a full understanding of what it does.I cant find anything in the manual(s)
The tach signal from the pump is different to the alt signal. My auto electrician says there are places that can mod the gauge to accept another signal.
Last edited:
good thread, I have a 1HZ in my HJ60 but will be dropping it in a FJ60 soon since my HJ body has rusted out. I do have some info to add from my 1st round install though...
here is a pic of my 1HZ in place wiht a AC bracket (but no pump). Not the best picture I may have another one but it is not online...there is an orange tag hanging from it on the top passenger side of the engine...
I have not had a change hook everyting up yet, but my preliminary investigations suggest that a 3FE AC pump will bolt up to this bracket and the pulleys will line up correctly. as you have already noticed the 3FE and 1HZ layouts are very similar...
Fuel ventilation thingy...my HJ came with that crap but the lines going to it rusted apart a long time ago and I haven't been "using" it since.
push pump....an aux fuel pump is only necessary if your are going to have multiple filters with small micron ratings. With a single stock filter you should be fine. I use a single racor (can't remember the filter on it now...) but i do not have a secondary push pump. It may not be a bad idea though, it would probably make it easier on the primary pump.
tach...as I mentioned above my 1HZ went into an HJ, but from my experience it wasn't worth messing with the stock 2H tach (bell housing pickup). an autometer #2888 is a quck and easy install to the stock dash location and it works great. If you do find out how to get the stock 2F gauge to work though, i'd be interested to know! The more stock looking the better...!
I'm jealous of your turbo
Good luck!
here is a pic of my 1HZ in place wiht a AC bracket (but no pump). Not the best picture I may have another one but it is not online...there is an orange tag hanging from it on the top passenger side of the engine...
I have not had a change hook everyting up yet, but my preliminary investigations suggest that a 3FE AC pump will bolt up to this bracket and the pulleys will line up correctly. as you have already noticed the 3FE and 1HZ layouts are very similar...
Fuel ventilation thingy...my HJ came with that crap but the lines going to it rusted apart a long time ago and I haven't been "using" it since.
push pump....an aux fuel pump is only necessary if your are going to have multiple filters with small micron ratings. With a single stock filter you should be fine. I use a single racor (can't remember the filter on it now...) but i do not have a secondary push pump. It may not be a bad idea though, it would probably make it easier on the primary pump.
tach...as I mentioned above my 1HZ went into an HJ, but from my experience it wasn't worth messing with the stock 2H tach (bell housing pickup). an autometer #2888 is a quck and easy install to the stock dash location and it works great. If you do find out how to get the stock 2F gauge to work though, i'd be interested to know! The more stock looking the better...!
I'm jealous of your turbo
Good luck!
Last edited:
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks guys!
VT, I have read through your page a number of times, thanks for the info.
Oh, and Rosco, that carb you sold me STILL wont run on diesel, scammer
Ok, tach and AC issues:
VT, did you try to plug the B-R wire on your 2H tach to the red injection pump signal? Anything happen?
(EDIT, I read through your tach help thread again, sounds like you did not have the tach sensor on your pump)
Rosco, Your FJ70 should have had a B-R (us spec is just B) wire to your AC amplifier labeled "from coil" The 60 series amplifier has a magic blue knob on the top of it (barley visible in the photo). This knob adjusts the minimum RPM that the AC pump will run at. I am under the impression that the AC will not run without that signal from the coil.
The Tach could just be a non-issue, but getting the tach to work ensures that the AC will work (I hope) so I hope to kill two birds with one stone.
Where did you get the AC bracket?
I will keep the fuel expansion vent thingy.
So THAT is what the vacuum canister is for, I will definitely be installing that then.
I think I will just find a temp sender that works and ignore the rest of them, unless further info suggests otherwise.
VT, I have read through your page a number of times, thanks for the info.
Oh, and Rosco, that carb you sold me STILL wont run on diesel, scammer
Ok, tach and AC issues:
VT, did you try to plug the B-R wire on your 2H tach to the red injection pump signal? Anything happen?
(EDIT, I read through your tach help thread again, sounds like you did not have the tach sensor on your pump)
Rosco, Your FJ70 should have had a B-R (us spec is just B) wire to your AC amplifier labeled "from coil" The 60 series amplifier has a magic blue knob on the top of it (barley visible in the photo). This knob adjusts the minimum RPM that the AC pump will run at. I am under the impression that the AC will not run without that signal from the coil.
The Tach could just be a non-issue, but getting the tach to work ensures that the AC will work (I hope) so I hope to kill two birds with one stone.
Where did you get the AC bracket?
I will keep the fuel expansion vent thingy.
So THAT is what the vacuum canister is for, I will definitely be installing that then.
I think I will just find a temp sender that works and ignore the rest of them, unless further info suggests otherwise.
Last edited:
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #8
Here is a side by side comparison of the 2F and 3FE pedal assemblies. (3FE is the clean one) You can see that the mount plate on the 3F is smaller, will need to drill new holes, and drill for the cable.
Looks good kid!
And good info all, keep it coming!
"Tach signal:
This may seem like a small issue, just put an aftermarket tach in, however; the 60 tach gets its signal from the coil, so does the AC amplifier, I am hopping that the red wire from the injection pump sends the same kind of pulse as the coil did. I have a spare tach to hook to the wire and see what happens. If I can get the tach to read properly then it only stands to reason that the AC amplifier would respond to the same signal."
Thanks to Tom over on the 3FE, we have a diagram of the "magic" that happens inside the 3FE amplifier. I do not see any input from the coil on this, hence the difference between the FJ60 and FJ62 amps. There are two unused pin outs though. I think we need to find a H amp.
"AC pump:
The motor has no AC pump bracket so I need to scrounge one of those up. I have a 3FE AC pump that I have heard might fit, any word on this? If not, then do I need to source an HZ pump? Does anyone have any photos that show an HZ AC setup?"
Did you take the 3FE mount? We might be able to adapt it to fit. I see it sits up high. The 3FE is low and under out PS pump. The belt size would/will be fun anyway.
"Do diesel tanks need this vent thing-a-ma-jig? I would like to remove it if I can."
I can't imagine you will have a use for this. It condenses GAS fumes to recycle back into your fuel sytem. Lose the charcoal can too.
Fun, fun! See you in less than a week-and-a-half!
Mitch/Pops
And good info all, keep it coming!
"Tach signal:
This may seem like a small issue, just put an aftermarket tach in, however; the 60 tach gets its signal from the coil, so does the AC amplifier, I am hopping that the red wire from the injection pump sends the same kind of pulse as the coil did. I have a spare tach to hook to the wire and see what happens. If I can get the tach to read properly then it only stands to reason that the AC amplifier would respond to the same signal."
Thanks to Tom over on the 3FE, we have a diagram of the "magic" that happens inside the 3FE amplifier. I do not see any input from the coil on this, hence the difference between the FJ60 and FJ62 amps. There are two unused pin outs though. I think we need to find a H amp.
"AC pump:
The motor has no AC pump bracket so I need to scrounge one of those up. I have a 3FE AC pump that I have heard might fit, any word on this? If not, then do I need to source an HZ pump? Does anyone have any photos that show an HZ AC setup?"
Did you take the 3FE mount? We might be able to adapt it to fit. I see it sits up high. The 3FE is low and under out PS pump. The belt size would/will be fun anyway.
"Do diesel tanks need this vent thing-a-ma-jig? I would like to remove it if I can."
I can't imagine you will have a use for this. It condenses GAS fumes to recycle back into your fuel sytem. Lose the charcoal can too.
Fun, fun! See you in less than a week-and-a-half!
Mitch/Pops
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #10
I forgot to mention the glow plugs in my first post.
My plan is to tap a relay into the choke warning light circuit, that way when the choke knob gets pulled out (no more cable from it) it will allow electric to flow through the bulb and through the relay to power the glows. Same purpose different function and the use of the choke knob is already intuitive.
What kind of amps do the glows draw?
That other electric thingy has the same large gauge wire feeding it that the glows are fed off of. What does it do?
My plan is to tap a relay into the choke warning light circuit, that way when the choke knob gets pulled out (no more cable from it) it will allow electric to flow through the bulb and through the relay to power the glows. Same purpose different function and the use of the choke knob is already intuitive.
What kind of amps do the glows draw?
That other electric thingy has the same large gauge wire feeding it that the glows are fed off of. What does it do?
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #11
Yup, I have the 3FE AC bracket, not even close. It would be simpler to start from scratch than to try to use that thing.
Does it look like I could control my 2F AC with a 3FE amp?
Does it look like I could control my 2F AC with a 3FE amp?
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #12
Oh, and is there any way that I can find out what vehicle this motor came out of?
It may help sourcing and diagnosing things.
It may help sourcing and diagnosing things.
Bear with me, I'm new on this forum...
Rosco had a FJ7*, that he turned into a BJ7*? If his AC works on the diesel, then most likely he did not have the same circuitry as the FJ60. If I surmise right, you should be able to use the FJ62 amp (I will have to find that!). The FJ62 amp does not show any coil input. The ECU must pickup the compressor clutch signal to kick up the RPM's on the 3FE. If so, plug in the FJ62 amp and your compressor SHOULD get signal to start. Everything else is "internal" to the AC system in the amplifier. Thermister, pressure switch, AC switch. I'll look at my wiring diagrams later, and try to find that amp.
The tach, attack that seperately.
Mitch/Pops
Rosco had a FJ7*, that he turned into a BJ7*? If his AC works on the diesel, then most likely he did not have the same circuitry as the FJ60. If I surmise right, you should be able to use the FJ62 amp (I will have to find that!). The FJ62 amp does not show any coil input. The ECU must pickup the compressor clutch signal to kick up the RPM's on the 3FE. If so, plug in the FJ62 amp and your compressor SHOULD get signal to start. Everything else is "internal" to the AC system in the amplifier. Thermister, pressure switch, AC switch. I'll look at my wiring diagrams later, and try to find that amp.
The tach, attack that seperately.
Mitch/Pops
I did hook up the 2H tack to my pump tach output and it only sort of worked. at idle there was nothing, and when I revved the engine the tach would read no more than maybe 500 rpm. It may work if there is a way to modify or calibrate the stock tach.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #15
Rosco had a 3F (not E) powered 7* series, he converted to a 1HZ. I have the wiring diagram for a 70 series with the 3F, it got the coil signal for the amp, If Rosco's AC works without the coil signal, perhaps mine would as well.
If the AC can work independent of the tach signal, great. VT did a very nice swap with an aftermarket tach in the stock location.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #16
Good to know that did not work, I can cross the 2H tach off the list of possibilities.
Did you try a tach from a 60 or 62?
I have a 60 tach I can try, and a 62.
nope, i didn't have any available.
I thought you did not take a 62 with you? Don't forget to tell me if I need to bring it.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Nice swap dude . I'm pretty sure that your 60 series gonna fly with this engine.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #20
