Misc questions now that my project runs

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Oct 25, 2006
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20
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Location
Emerald City
Now that my 93' 80 project runs >

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/341445-project-effjjay-eighty-2uz-powered.html

I thought I would ask a few simple questions. Its been three years since I had my last 80.

1. When I stop, everytime im right at about 3-5mph the abs kicks in. It feels like the right front caliper freaking out. The PO says the brake rotors were replaced and thats when the issues came to light. They are warped bigger than sh1t now so when I go digging around is there anything other than an obvious cut line or damaged sensor that I should be looking for ? Do these rigs have any standard abs problems ?

2. My fuel door doesnt pop open. Is there supposed to be a flat metal plate that helps like a spring inside the door ?
I have to have a second person pull the door open while I pull the lever inside the cab.


3. Can someone point me toward the mirror shake thread ? The search isnt working and im certain I saw a thread that involved JB Weld and paperclips or something McGuyver-esque


4. The rig has a mean case of the crab walk. It shakes due to the MTR tires being cupped bigger than sh1t. When I accelerate the rig goes left. When I let off it dives right. I presume its because the panhard bushings have 241k miles on them even though they dont apear worn. Any other obvious reasons that im overlooking ? ie: TRE's arm bushings etc ?


5. The windows barely go up and down. Has anyone had luck just replacing the seals, or would it be to the motors being tits up ?


TIA guys :)
 
Just chuck it and start over. I'll take it off of your hands for $1500.

:flipoff2:
 
caliper pistons could be stuck leading to the ABS problem and the warped rotor, there is a rebuild kit available for the calipers and slomo posted a nice how to on the process.

edit:

linky

Slomos Brake Caliper rebuild thread
 
I had the same "crabwalk" happening to my 94. I had really really bad lower control arm bushings in the rear. Once they were fixed, problem solved.
 
I don't think a visual inspection of the busing is the way to go. Put a prybar in there and see how much the LCA can move 3-9 o'clock and 6-12 o'clock. It should move more one way than the other because of the factory holes, I can't remember the orientation, but I think they were at 6-12 o'clock positions. If there is a lot of play in the 3-9 direction, replace them, they are pretty old no matter what year 80 series you have.
 
2. On the fuel door itself, between the hinge mounts, there should be a little flat spring thing. Helps your door come open. If it's not there, then that's why it takes two people to get yours open.
 
Any chance someone could post or txt me a pic of said fuel door spring ?

Even though it is pouring with rain and pitch black here in the UK, here ya go (by torch light lol)

Image009-7.jpg



Image010-3.jpg



Sorry for the rubbish mobile shots but hey ho you get the idea

Spring steel and off you go

Congrats on the build, I've followed it all - I am in awe of your abilities
 
Thanks guys. The search wasnt working for me this morning. From my laptop or desktop. Just figured it was down like it always was on PBB.
 
about the windows .. did you check how much V amps are your windows motor getting .. ? was my first step, then cleaning contacts .. and then silicon to the rubber rails .. cold days are still slow ..
 
about the windows .. did you check how much V amps are your windows motor getting .. ? was my first step, then cleaning contacts .. and then silicon to the rubber rails .. cold days are still slow ..
I thiink that the majority of it is the seals, but im going to check all of it on the drivers side, this weekend. Lube the lift gears and the motors. Luckily the motors arent top expensive.
I priced out the oem from my buddy at toyota. Super discount pricing would run around $260 for all 4.
Plus I need a rear hatch seal and a front window seal. Im not made of money but if that fixxed the problem and I could use all the windows, it would be money well spent.

I'm still waiting to see a video of it running (actually moving, accelerating, etc). Any chance of that?
Im going to get some footage this weekend if it stops the torrential downpour and post a link in the build thread.
 
I found that using Shoe-Goo to secure the mirrors seems to work well. At the bottom of the mirror there is a single Phillips screw that everyone over tightens and breaks the plastic threads inside. Pull out the mirror, squirt some of the shoe-goo in the broken places and reinstall. Wait a couple of hours and it should take care of the problem.
 
1. When I stop, everytime im right at about 3-5mph the abs kicks in. It feels like the right front caliper freaking out.

Might be worth checking the abs sensor in each wheel to 1.) see if its got a bunch of shavings stuck to it and 2.) the connections are good. Not sure but I think if there was excess metal accumulated on the sensor it could malfunction. Worth a check anyway since its quick.
 

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