Anyone disable their passenger window switches?

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OK, here's the deal...

I absolutely HATE it when passengers mess with the windows :bang:

I guess I'm just a control freak, but I've had countless situations where someone would crack their window open without my knowledge only for me to find out hours later :rolleyes:

Also, I recently gave a customer and her family a ride to the local rental agency and one of her bratty kids started playing with the RR window switch :mad:

Thing is I didn't know it until I saw the voltmeter on the dash flicker a few times (he was pushing the button up with the window already closed)

Rather than spin around give him a hefty smack (like I wanted to), I just hit the window lock button and let him click away at the switch :meh:

That being said, I can't stand factory window lock switch either :bang:

What's the point of having a window lock switch that also locks out driver control :confused:

I'd much rather have a Ford type locking switch that only locks out the passengers :)

Anyhoo, I'd like to disable the 3 passenger window switches :hhmm:

Could I just pull the plug for each switch or do I have to wire in a jumper lead?

Reason I ask is because when I disabled the passenger switch on my T/A, the driver switch wouldn't work until I added a jumper wire across a couple of terminals on the passenger side harness :meh:




Rick
 
It would be nice to have driver side control even with the lock on.
 
Now that I think about it, why not let the driver control all the switches while locking everyone else out.

If you have kids or have driven around with kids you know what I mean.
 
Now that I think about it, why not let the driver control all the switches while locking everyone else out.

If you have kids or have driven around with kids you know what I mean.


That's how the Ford window lock switches work :)

Driver has total control at all times :cool:

Disabling the passenger switches will be good enough for me though....
 
Rick, I know EXACTLY where you're coming from. My family has the privilege (if you can call it that...) of owning a Ford F150 with the nice lock-window-control-except-the-driver feature.

I want....
 
Rick

I had issue with my rear passenger side window slipping out of track, so after a couple times fixing it I had enough and just unplugged the damned thing. No problems any more :beer:
 
I habitually lock the windows to stop my passengers from opening them without my knowledge. The sprocket gear on the passenger side is rusted and gets stuck if the window is fully opened. The Driver's window remains fully operational regardless that the passengers windows are locked.

I suspect something is wrong with your master, but have no idea of what it could be.


Kalawang
 
I don't have this issue with the window lock button. Hit it and all the passenger windows are locked but I can still activate the driver's window.

This is exactly what I don't like about Toyota's window locking system :doh:

When the window lock button is pressed, only the driver's window will function :frown:

Lets say you have a bratty kid in the back seat that keeps rolling down his window :rolleyes:

You try to roll it back up, only have him roll it back down again :bang:

You go back and forth with him, then finally get fed up and hit the window lock button ;p

Thing is, neither you nor the kid is able to move the window and it stays half open until you either reach your destination or throw the kid out the window for his antics :meh:

The Ford window lock system lets the driver lock out all the passengers, but still retain control over all windows from the master switch :cool: (the way it should be)


Anyhoo, back to the question at hand...

If I unplug the passenger window switches, will I still be able to control them from the master switch without using a jumper :hhmm:
 
I habitually lock the windows to stop my passengers from opening them without my knowledge. The sprocket gear on the passenger side is rusted and gets stuck if the window is fully opened. The Driver's window remains fully operational regardless that the passengers windows are locked.

I suspect something is wrong with your master, but have no idea of what it could be.


Kalawang

The issue is not about the drivers window - it is about the driver's control of the passengers windows. With the window lock switch open everyone, driver and passengers alike, have control of the passenger windows - with it closed no one has control of them. The OPs opinion, which I totally agree, is that it would be nice if the driver had control of the passenger widows regardless of the position of the window lock switch. Unfortunately I suspect that a lot of parallel wire would need to be laid in order to do it.
 
Come on guys, way to much sorrow for the situation and not enough action.:flipoff2:

9 replies without any answers, too much pandering; so I went outside 2 minutes and popped DS rear window control out, unplugged, and viola. S#!t don't work...

The unplugged window will not work via the master, you probably need to jump it. There is 5 terminals on the plug, so it shouldn't be too bad.:D

I don't have an issue with people moving the window's, cause I keep my pimp hand strong, and dole out backhands like flu shots in November; so I am not going to try and figure out which ones to jump...
:cheers:
Dave
 
I have thought this same thing- Why does the passenger windows have to be locked to the driver while the switch is engaged? I also have a Ford expedition, and it works like you'd expect. Is this a relay thing, a wiring thing, or a master switch thing? I'm not to adept at the wiring stuff, but couldn't we compare wiring diagrams between the two and find the solution? Any wiring ninjas out there that can answer this kind of question?

Sorry- another non answer post.
:deadhorse:
 
maybe the easiest thing to do, is figure out how to deactivate the locking of the driver's window, while keeping the lock function enabled for all the other windows.

you'd only have to mess with one control switch that way.
 
OK, I finally got around to doing this today :cool:

After a few minutes with my ohm meter, I found that each pigtail required a pair of jumper leads to complete the circuit that would normally be complete with the switches plugged in :hhmm:

Simple enough, so I just cut some jumpers, poked them in the terminals and taped them in place :cool:

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Won't have to worry about people screwing around with my windows anymore :flipoff2:
 
The reason for all the pain is the way Mr. T wired it(as you've prolly already figured out). To make it as simple explanation as possible, here it is: On all 4 door windows, except the drivers, you have 2 switches to control the window. The switches are set up to pass voltage, even when not used, hence: remove either switch & window no worky at all. Even a bad connection at master drivers door switch can cause say, LR door switch to not work. I found all this out by working on my daughter's '88 Camry. To those with some electrical experience, all window switches, including master driver's switch use both N.O.(normally open) and N.C.(normally closed) contacts. And what are contacts in cars famous for: arcing and causing poor connections. Which make for a nightmare troubleshooting window problems (unless you know these details). I haven't looked at my 80's switches yet, but I could disassemble the Camry's and clean/file the contacts for a temporary fix. So, by removing the other door switches and installing jumpers, snake eater, you have cut your potential window problems by more than 50 per cent! (Not to mention, gaining total and absolute control) Good Job!!! I'm thinking about rewiring and removing some switches!!!
 

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