Power Door Lock Problem - Driver Door (1 Viewer)

[skeeterskool]

Hello all:

I have a 1993 FJ 80 and the driver door lock does not work when the lock button is pushed. It moves a little, but will not throw the locking mechanism. Reading the forums, I found this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/237827-door-lock-actuator-replacement.html

Prior to "surgery", I lubricated anything I could find with no luck. I have my lock assembly out (what a pain, but I did not break anything this time and the door lock "actuator" (or assemobly) is taken apart. The dc motor in the 1993 FJ80 is NOT the same as the motor in the thread above.

My question: Does anybody know where I can find this little dc motor? Any suggestions on a replacement option that won't cost an arm and a leg? FYI: I already posted to the thread re: parting out red FJ80 (lucky he was in an FJ80!).

Thanks for the help!

Doug

 

[Ebag333]

Both rear doors in my wife's truck do that. Sometimes they will un/lock, but rarely fully.

Something I need to deal with but never got around to....

 

[NLXTACY]

Interested to see this too. Both my rears do this and I've done the lube route with little success. Rather temporary success. I feel as though the drive that pulls/pushes the lock just isn't getting enough juice. So contact cleaning is probably step one. I wasn't going to mess with them until I start doing the stereo upgrade.

 

[citadel]

bump..... same issue here.. rear door

 

[snowwolf]

Same here too, rear door, I have to check each time I lock the car, most times it does not lock 1st time, unlock and re lock and it always locks 2nd time.

 

[westonirons]

Same here, rear door. I have to open the drivers side door all the way and then unlock the doors again. Then the driver side rear will unlock.

 

[Tapage]

I don't have any issue with my locks yet ( knock wood ) but what about replace with a generic door lock

 

[Darwood]

Rear passengers side for me. Taking everything apart and cleaning it made it slight more reliable while locking, however it tends to not unlock. The motor looks simple enough to replace with a little soldering.

 

[landcruising]

Rear passenger side for me too, does not lock or unlock. So I pulled the panels off and removed asembly from the door after much bending and twisting. Once out I realized many parts are riveted together (arms and motor attachments and would require cutting and patching). So I tried lubing but no luck. I simply was relagated to hand locking and unlocking, until last week when the driver side starting acting up.

Needless to say I will try the panel contact cleaniing shown in other threads next.

Anybody with a wire diagram that shows how it is wired, maybe not enough juice getting to the motot for a longer run, or maybe its related to the ground problems I and others have had near the back hatch. Any thoughts here.

 

[Dr Gonzo]

I have the same problem with my rear door locks.

 

[snowwolf]

mmmmmmm i bet there are a lot of LC's out there where this is happening, as you will not know unless you pull the rear door handle, bet mine has been doing it years before I noticed, which is not good when expensive items are left in car!!!

 

[nakman]

Same here, passenger rear, but only when it's cold out. Thankfully I've usually got my kid with me so that's the door I get him out of, and have started locking that one by hand before I close it. It almost always unlocks though, just doesn't lock sometimes. Haven't messed with anything behind the door panel though, other than the speaker.

 

[snowwolf]

All I had messed with was the door speakers?

 

[unwiredadventures]

Me too, rear drivers side.

 

[NLXTACY]

Jeez there is a lot to the Door Lock Control EWD. I think I am going to tear into this tomorrow and document and if i have any luck I will post up. Both of my rear door locks are acting up now.

 

[taccruiser97]

I had/have the same problem with my rr door. I noted that the rods slide thru plastic clips that are in the middle of the door. In looking at the rods, I noticed they seem to have a film buildup on them. So, I cleaned the rods, sprayed them with silicone spray and sprayed inside the plastic clips where the rods slide thru, also. It seemed to help, but didn't totally fix it either. My theory is that as the rods build up dust and dirt it cuts down on the rods ability to slide thru those clips and that is why the lock button hangs up. I also sprayed the plastic lock button that is in the door handle bezel. I spayed silicon on the hinge that the button pivots on.

Not a total fix, but it did help.

 

[Aussie cruiser]

I had problems with front driver's side (right) door not unlocking. After much fun and games of getting the Door Trim off with the door closed I found a small spring on the locking mechanism was broken cauing the lock to jam. Made a new one but found it doesn't quite have enough tension so occasioally still have a problem unlocking it. It usually comes good after a couple of goes .

 

[Darwood]

I had problems with front driver's side (right) door not unlocking. After much fun and games of getting the Door Trim off with the door closed I found a small spring on the locking mechanism was broken cauing the lock to jam. Made a new one but found it doesn't quite have enough tension so occasioally still have a problem unlocking it. It usually comes good after a couple of goes .

Ahh that sounds like the much worse problem with the spring eating through the plastic which results in the door not being able to be opened.

Here we are just complaining about our doors not automatically unlocking when we push the unlock button. More an inconvenience rather than not being able to open the door.

 

[cartercd]

I found a solution, but it isn't "plug and play". The thread referenced in the original post, which is from the 100s forum, describes how to replace the small DC motor within the door lock actuator. The motor, which appears to be very common with Toyota and Lexus, is Mabuchi part # fc-280pt-22125. On the 80 series, at least my 97, the motors are slightly different than this Mabuchi item.

- In the first picture notice the replacement motor on top has a shorter, unsplined shaft. The shaft is also slightly smaller in diameter.
- I found a nail about the same diameter as the shaft, and welded it on (pic 2). I suck at welding, and I think I got lucky that it attached so well. I beefed up the shaft diameter in a few places by hitting it with the welder. I used a belt sander to smooth things up, and then pressed the worm gear on. It was very tight friction fit requiring some taps with a hammer.
- The electrical connections are also different. The OEM wires are soldered directly to the motor. The replacement motor has female receptacles. I soldered some spade terminals to the OEM wires, cut one side of the "spade" off, and plugged the remaining spade right in. See pic 3.

I put everything back together and now the door locks with authority! Hopefully my weld holds.

Thanks to socalsuv in the 100s forum for identifying what motor can be used. The motors can only be purchased in bulk right now, but keep checking the 100s thread (referenced in original post) as they were discussing group buys. I bought mine from another forum member. Hopefully someone can find a replacement motor that has the correct shaft to avoid having to go through all this.

 

[cartercd]

Here is the motor installed in the actuator.