92 80 Spinny no starty

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I'm assuming that the CE light isn't on when the key is in the ON position. You could try jumping the load side of the EFI relay to see if it comes on. Pins 2-4. If the CE lamp comes on, give it a whirl. If not then something else is ary.

If it works, don't leave the jumper in for more than a few days without running the truck as it will drain the battery.
 
cheap test, buy a new efi relay. swap it in. if that doesn't fix it, then it is in the wiring to the efi relay. but it is a hugely common problem.

same prob on my rig. prev owner spent a grand replacing entire ignition system. all it was, was that pesky relay. and he had given up the fight and sold me the truck for a grand. two hours later, it was running.

replace that relay.
 
I have swapped the relay with a known good spare, It is a new Toyota one that has been in the glove box for a few years since this happened last time. I will try jumping the 2 and 4 pins to see if that makes a difference.

I wonder what goes bad with the wiring what so I need to re wire, should I just get a new bosch relay and rewire all the way to the pump?

You guys are a lot of help but I need some more detail.

Thanks again JFK
 
You need to figure out what's wrong here. Maybe the wiring/contacts are bad, maybe the ECU isn't throwing the relay for some reason.
Check the logic side of the EFI relay. With the relay out, key ON, you should see +12 on pin 2 from the 15 amp EFI fuse (relay load side) and +12 on pin 3 from the ECU (relay logic side). Pin 1 should be a solid ground and pin 4 feeds +12 to the rest of the EFI system when the relay is in place (load).
 
This afternoon I was able to spend some time on the cruiser. I had a bad FI relay and I replaced with a good one, Still no start. Even tried the jumper between pin 2 and 4, I do have a CEL now, I do have + 12 at pin 8 (B+) in the diagnostic connector now.

If I crack the cold start injector loose I get fuel spraying out under pressure.

What is my next step, computer??

Dog gone it.....

John
 
Then it would appear that the EFI cicuit is fully functional, including the ECU.
Have you checked for spark?
Have you physically looked at the dissy cap/rotor/wires.
Have you checked the coil for the proper resisitance readings on both primary and secondary?
http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE EFI Diag.pdf
 
Is there any history to this that you're keeping secret, or did the truck run fine one day and not start the next?
Have you checked all connectors to the AFM, TPS, IAC?

Does she "try" to fire with a stumble, or does she just crank like the coil wire was disconnected?
 
I was driving on Sunday and while turning around in a parking space she died, no sputtering just died dead....When trying to start it just turns over. No fire nothing.

I will not be able to get a look at the truck today but I will have a look at it Wednesday. I will report back what I find.

Thanks for the info Jon.


JFK
 
I was able to get at the truck again today. Per the troubleshooting procedure in the link that Jon provided the coil tests bad.

The primary tests 1.55 ohms (.42- .50 is what it should be).
The secondary tests 28.8K ohms (should be 10.2- 13.8K ohms)

So it looks like I need a coil. I have one for a FJ 62 that is good, any way to make that work? What are the chances the untestable igniter is also bad?

Jon Held you have been a world of help with this problem, I owe you a beer for sure,

John
 
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