Real Time Help! Body Mount Torque Specs

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Replacing the drop in body mount cushions, #3 location, 1995 4Runner, part # 52205-35070.

My FSM and TIS don't list the following...

The 2 flange bolts for the cushion to the frame pocket.

The main bolt going from the cab floor to the mount.

I thought they were 45-50 and 75 ft/lb but can't find it and of course having had to break them loose w an impact b/c they're originals didn't help me.

[EDIT]CORRECTED #'s I used below approximated my estimated #'s above, if using this thread as a reference for your rig, look it up in the manual as I did b/c spec's change!


Reply ASAP!! I'll provide the beer.
 
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Take the size and grade of the bolts. Look for the list of generic torque specs in the FSM and use the torque specs from there.

R.M. 1995::Introduction: Standard Bolt Torque Specifications (4RUNNER) is the manual section you want.

The 1995 4Runner FSM online: 1990 to 1995 Toyota 4Runner OEM Repair and Wiring Manuals

It better be a gluten free beer. ;)
 
Realistically that means I have a donor part or the piece already off.

Also doesn't include a body lift kit which affects the calculation when I now have Grade-8 or higher and is 1" longer.

Roger Brown has 30ft/lb for the cab mount bolt but nothing for the actual mount's flange bolts themselves.
 
If you have a body lift kit, then it's instructions should have the torque specs, or they are standard for the size and grade of bolt. Look up a standard bolt torque spec chart.

Well, by the standard table the FSM gives, the hex head flange bolts are class 4T or 6T and range from 10 to 90Ft lbs per the table. Look at the FSM to see how to identify which is which by the head markings.

As for your grade 8 bolts, look to what the originals were to get the right torque. The welded in mounting nuts they attach to will have been designed for that load.
 
The body mount bolt from the cab through the center of the mount's 30 like I found, I went with 75 for the mount flange bolts based on the step-up at 2lb increments w/ the torque wrench method and added 10lbs to that 65lb figure. I wrestled with one side for two hours to get enough room to swap the first one out, during which the pressure treated lumber I had protecting the pinchweld from one of the supports started to crack and when it did I went BANG and warped the pinch weld a tiny bit. When I got done making sure I still had all my limbs and digits (yes, I had plenty of supports as well as bracing between my sliders, the frame, and the body) I started on the drivers side...

The last bolt's completely frozen and solid so bad my ratchet couldn't even budge it and rounded the bolt a bit with a 6 point socket. I tried the redneck double open-box wrench trick but couldn't get the last bolt on the flange free.


So, I actually get to test out my tool warranty this weekend b/c of this job. :lol: I think I'll just drive it 'til it dies and stop trying to preserve it. :lol:
 
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Got them done, had to use the shop's 150gal tank and the air turned all the way up with the Snap-On HD Impact to break the welded nut loose. Way better method than struggling to try to get around the topside. Took only an hour on the left side today.

Pics of course. :popcorn:

What's left of the PITA bolt and the welded nut we broke loose from the mount.
boltandtigdnut.JPG


Pair of the mounts, you can see not just where they failed at the top of the "volcano", but actually had separated entirely from the outer shell.
pair.JPG


Closeup on the driver's #3 mount.
driverside.JPG


Closeup on the passenger's #3 mount.
passengerside.JPG
 
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Just so you all know too, as of my picking this stuff up Friday they are now officially outed. 100% outed, nationally. I canceled my backorder on the driver's and passenger's #2 mounts b/c the backorder period just got stupid and I blew the rest of the budget for this project on a new impact gun and sockets.

Toyota L.A. backordered it through San Rafael who's apparently backordering them through Canada, who has to get them from Japan.

:lol:

~Here's the clincher, DayStar, Energy, Poly-Perf, etc. are also all outed nationally, production lead time's 10-15 days, I'm calling Roger Monday to see if he has any left to play with since I prefer the factory one's over the poly, I'll take a failure every 16 years over rattling my 4Runner's cabin to death. :D
 
Done and done, definitely anti-seized them. Now I get to see about straightening out a pinch-weld and rocker panel. I got it straight side to side and down to less than 1mm of dent upwards. I may just call it "character" and be fine with it. :D
 
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