Desmog Help...RTM but not urgent

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gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
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Location
Carson City, NV
Desmog Help...RTH

Ok so I have finally started my desmog on BeBe and have a couple of questions.
First off though, if you are planning to do this I can say that one of the most indispensable tools I have found to help speed along a portion of the process has been a nice, sharp, long bladed Exacto knife. I did not break one nipple because of it....

So here are my questions and I believe I have the answers but want to make sure.

1. I am supposed to remove all this spaghetti of metal vacuum line correct? I have looked a numerous pics and dont see it so I am leaning towards yes.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

2. For the last (furthest back) Air Rail nut How the Hell do you get back there? Are you supposed to remove the engine hook back there along with the line to the booster and EGR line?

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

3. The hoses that are connected to all the emissions crap here (look like radiator hoses almost). These all get removed correct? I have been trying to remove them but they are so short that I can barely move them and dont want to cut them before I know for sure..

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

I have been updating in my build thread but figured this would get faster responses.
Thanks!!:wrench::wrench:
 
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1. The metal spagetti goes away.

2. I cut off the air rail, then unscrewed the individual nuts. Crude, but easy.

3. Those hoses and the parts they connect to also go away.
 
Sweet! Getting there!
I just ended up cutting the hoses out so thanks for the comment. JimC document for the desmog says some people leave the rail in and I think that for the time being I may do that as I just can't get to that last one. Rest broke out just fine. I would love to save it and get it to anothe mud member that needs it.
image-3746295417.webp
 
[STRIKE]Ok EGR stuff does not want to come out! And I cant seem to unscrew the flex pipe.[/STRIKE]

Ok found a piece of 1x1 and started to hit it with a BFH and that seemed to work at loosening it but I think I have hit something where it was not well explained in the document or I just completely misunderstood.

I bought JimC's EGR block off place which I believe goes to the EGR connection that is right under the carb. But there is another area off the J tube from the EGR cooler that needs to be blocked off as well? So basically the
The JimC block goes here?

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Remove the EGR Diaphram (UFO looking thing) with the EGR plate under the carb

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Somehow unscrew the flex tube the leads from the EGR Diaphram to the EGR Cooler (still can't get this to budge)

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Then you are supposed to remove the EGR Cooler? Note the big bolts are 14mm. The pipe that is coming out of the back of the EGR Cooler is that the J Pipe referenced in the desmog document? (Seen here out the back of the EGR cooler?)

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Then loops up to here where it hits the block/exhaust manifold?

8194970668_3e65af8d87_o by renofizz, on Flickr
 
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If you are removing all the EGR that the flex tube is connected to take it all out and don't worry about the flex tube just unbolt the other parts and take off. If you are leaving them you can leave the flex tub too unless you have a plug for it.
 
Ok so JimC's block off plate goes where the "J" pipe hits the exhaust manifold... I guess reading through all this I did not realize there were two spots where the EGR hit the manifold.
Now I got to see if I can get a friend to bring his portable welder over to weld the two ends of the EGR Inlet piece so I can reuse that as a block-off.

Hit pretty much a stopping point for the night as one of the "J" pipe nuts does not want to come off.. hit it with some PB Blaster and will let it sit. Went ahead and removed the busted BVSV1 and plugged that and then put the bolt back in that was holding the metal spaghetti to the front of the manifold. Had no clue water/antifreeze was coming out of the open bolt hole until I started rocking the truck trying to tighten down the plug for the BVSV.. NOTE you should have an 8mm allen attachment for your ratchet to get these in much easier... didn't realize I had one until I had been fighting with a small hand allen wrench. :banghead:
 
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Yes, the pipe out the back of the EGR cooler is the J pipe. Just cut the flex pipe, then you can remove the EGR valve. Once you take the EGR cooler off, you can cut, crimp and bend the J pipe to seal it, or weld it up if you have a welder.

I'm vague on the details as it was a year or so back when I desmogged, but I think the EGR connection to the manifold is shared with the PCV connection. I just stuck a bolt in the end of the EGR connector and welded it in to make a plug. I posted pics of it when I did it, I'll look for them.
 
TS888 - Thanks for the pic... that is exactly what I was thinking of doing but why did you leave the pipe that goes to the other side of the engine (passenger side)? I was figuring that I would just cut both off as I have seen nothing that says you need to keep that line?

Oh and does anyone know what size the nuts are for the end of the "J" Pipe? Lost one somehow (fell when I was taking it off) and the other still hasn't come off (sitting with PB Blaster on it right now).
 
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That line is PCV. You want to keep it.
 
Ok that is what I thought... reading the desmog document kept talking about it but there was also talk about using a block-off plate there which would delete that so I was a bit confused. Glad I didn't just decide to cut the hose for it that goes to the other side.

You have been a great help TS888, much appreciated, on this and with the brakes (which is going to have to be tackled when I can afford to replace everything).
 
holy **** i had forgotten how much **** these things had on them.

yeah, I just put mine back together stock, since, well, I still had the parts!

There sure are a lot of them. I love the little one- way valve sticking up
out of nowhere in front of the oil filler...

t
 
Thanks Jim! See that just was not making sense to me until I finally got everything apart. I have been through the desmog thread and desmog with HAC thread numerous time along with your doc and I guess I am one of those people that just has to see it first hand before it truly sinks in. Thanks again everyone for the help.

I actually found the other nut this morning, of course after I had gone and picked up new one. But i did run into an issue.. one bolt coming from the Exhaust is seriously longer than the other. So with the toyota gasket and the block off plate I am only able to thread one nut. Should I dump the gasket or will it be fine with just a single nut in place? I can thread lock if needed.

This has been quite the adventure for me seeing as I haven't really worked on a car in a number of years (probably at least 10yrs). I appreciate everyone helping me through this. Definitely getting to know my cruiser first hand and loving it!!
 
Ok so got the EGR welded up by my buddy, threw some JB Weld on there for good measure. Got that installed and the PCV line routed back to stock location.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Then modified one of the brackets to accept the VTV, HAC, and added the ability for the fuel cut-off.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Once that one is done I will start working on the line routing. Going to start looking at things now and sure I will be back shortly with questions.
 
Ok in the picture above.. the white valve, is that the VTV or VCV? It is referenced at one point as the VTV and another as the VCV.. I thought the VTVs were the white/opaque and blue or green valve...
 
Ok so I am so close to being done but I have a couple questions..

First one is going from the drivers side VCV to evap...
- Line (z) to EVAP canister "PURGE" line (
Is this the purge line on the firewall next to the booster?

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

And if so, it goes to here, to the white port (only one left)

Untitled by renofizz, on Flick

The last thing is the "T" fitting that is talked about for the HAC Advance on the the Distributer to HAC Port D and split to manifold Gas Filter check valve.
Am I missing a "T" fitting or was I supposed to purchase another one.
 
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Ok found the EVAP purge line... sneaky little bugger is hiding under the Brake Master Cylinder..

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
Picture that I was showing above was actually another port that routes from below the carb to the firewall.

Figured out my A/C Idle Up so last thing is the HAC Advance to Manifold. Guess I will have to go to NAPA tomorrow to grab a T fitting for those and then I will be done.
 

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