Photos.....dang it....I was a bit task oriented with getting it done, as well as changing the outside down pipe between the stock header and cat. I just got back online and now it is dark and everything is buttoned up.
Gregnash.....it's really an easy job and only took me about an hour and fifteen minutes. Start at the dash and take out all, and I mean all, the philips head screws holding the housing around the instruments; you will need to take the screws out around the radio as well. It kind of rotates from the top out. If it hangs up and is really hard to move, you probably missed a screw. The radio stays in, just the housing around the radio comes out. The instruments, however, do come out as they are attached to the housing. This will allow you to get easily to the back of the speedometer and pull the plug on the cable.
Now attach a cord (para cord works good) to the cable and pull the cable out from the bottom. You will see a small plastic keeper above the gas pedal holding the cable to the dash framework. I finally cut it and replaced it with a zip tie. When the cable goes behind the center console, it goes through the floor; it is kind of hard to get at....barely accessible. This is where the rubber grommet is if you have a new OEM cable. I pulled the old one up with a screwdriver and then pushed it through the hole along with the cable, plug, and para cord.
Now craw under the truck and pull the cable to the back. There is another keeper about halfway back, maybe around the front of the transfer case that is accessible somewhat and is reusable; at least I was able to reuse it. It pops out when you pull on the lower half with pliers and you can snap it back in later. There is also a keeper on the back of the transfer case that is easy to snap open and use on the new cable.
Where the cable goes into the transfer case, just un-screw it but make sure to loosen the bolt just above it. This bold has a keeper that holds the rod in the cable housing and must me loosened so you can remove the cable.
I worked backwards to install the new cable but waited until the very end to hook it up to the transfer case. Use the cord to pull it back through. The new grommet was impossible to install; I got it through the hole but could not get it snapped in and finally gave up. The dash went back together as easy as it came out; no problem. I could not get the back lager portion of the cable back on the upper side of the transfer case but there was plenty of cable to let it ride about 1" outside of where the original one sat.
I have not run it yet to see if it works because I am having problems with the down pipe so hopefully it works. About 5 years ago, I bought a whole exhaust system (minus the cats) from Man-A-Fre that extended from my stock headers to the back. Well, about a month ago, the outside down pipe rusted from the inside out where the O2 sensor hooks up; sounded like a tractor. I called Man-A-Fre and told them what I had and order two new down pipes; they don't sell just one. Imagine my disappointment when I found, after removing the old pipe, that the new pipe is about 8" too short and has the wrong fitting on the manifold side. Seems they don't make downpipes anymore that hook up to the stock headers; only their $595 custom headers. They would have been happy to take them back for a 20% restocking fee except I had already painted them with high temp paint....dang it. My only remedy, I suppose, is to take the old and new down pipes to a muffler shop and see if they can modify the new one to look like the old one.
So, there she sits, stuck in the driveway until I can get the down pipe fixed. Land Cruiser drama, my wife calls it.
. They must have had the floor sweep take a look at it; don't think I will be taking my truck to them again....major fail on their part. Obviously it is not that hard.
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