Getting ready to do an oil change. When I bought my cruiser, it had a FRAM filter. Every once in a while, someone takes a hood open pic of their FJ and several mudders refer to the FRAM as the "ORANGE CAN of DEATH." What is recommended? Thanks.
Oil Filter (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ssgtange
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15600-41010...............That is the CORRECT Toyota oil filter part number. When you go down to the dealer they will attempt to sell you a different filter, a smaller filter, do not take that filter and tell them you want the number above.
Zack
Zack
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the input. Cruiser Dan should be all over this.
Yup he has the best price on that filter. I like to order a few at a time, so you have them in "stock".
Zack
- Thread starter
- #5
I am local to American Toyota. What is the going rate? Any advice on oil type?
Toyo filter is about $12 ...
Run a Diesel rated oil - Has more ZDDP (anti wear additive) that's been removed from modern Spark-rated oils. You need it for the flat lifters.
I use Rotella T 15w-40... $13/gal at walmart. You need 2 gals. You're gonna get lots of opinions on this .
Run a Diesel rated oil - Has more ZDDP (anti wear additive) that's been removed from modern Spark-rated oils. You need it for the flat lifters.
I use Rotella T 15w-40... $13/gal at walmart. You need 2 gals. You're gonna get lots of opinions on this .
The problem with racing oils is they have a very light "additive package" and low-detergent because they're meant to be changed frequently.
I sometimes add a couple of quarts of the VR1 to 6 qts of the Rotella to boost the ZDDP level, but racing oil straight if you change at the usual 5k miles I think is too long and depletes its additives.
I sometimes add a couple of quarts of the VR1 to 6 qts of the Rotella to boost the ZDDP level, but racing oil straight if you change at the usual 5k miles I think is too long and depletes its additives.
Wix is a decent filter and it is also marketed as the Napa Gold. You might find this hard to believe, but the very best deal on an oil filter is actually the Wal Mart brand. They have a very high first pass efficiency rating, a large amount of filter media and a neoprene back-flow valve which is vastly superior to metal that you will find in junk like Fram filters, and they don't cost much. I have been using them for years, ever since I figured this out.
Is the Walmart branded filter the same size as the OE ?
Crap , Try to buy an oil filter just when you need it, Cuz NEXT DAY /WEEK/MONTH/Lifetime i won't use up , say bought in 6 units , from yota @ 10.00 or so , rather than Napa/crapa/fram,
Sorry guys i use only OEM , Mann/ or real stuff. MONEY is not the issue , it's wiping out an engine ..
You don't measure the cost of a smoke / cigar / scotch / beer /toys ,filter , best going , cuz dry starts is what only OEM are best at. And thats what you want to stop, DRY STARTS KILL.
VT
Sorry guys i use only OEM , Mann/ or real stuff. MONEY is not the issue , it's wiping out an engine ..
You don't measure the cost of a smoke / cigar / scotch / beer /toys ,filter , best going , cuz dry starts is what only OEM are best at. And thats what you want to stop, DRY STARTS KILL.
VT
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My 62 has 250K on it and my diesel has 300K plus. Neither one has seen an OEM filter probably since new. Only wix since I have had them #51515 and plain old Castrol 10-40 in the 62 with Delo 400 15-40 going into the diesel.
Tony
Remember homey the clown??? He would be smacking your ass over the head right now....
lay off the
Remember homey the clown??? He would be smacking your ass over the head right now....
lay off the
Homey the clown don't mess around.
I was going to change my oil yesterday and use a fram. Luckily I jumped off the roof after setting up my swamp cooler and rolled my ankle first. Now that I saw this post and searched for others I found that using the fram would have been a huge mistake.
So I think I'll just get the Toyota one but confused on the right one to get. Is it alright to get the smaller one or should I definitely get the larger one?
So I think I'll just get the Toyota one but confused on the right one to get. Is it alright to get the smaller one or should I definitely get the larger one?
I either use Toyota filter or AMSOIL filter....the Mobil 1 is good I think as well but prefer OEM or AMSOIL for my filters....and AMSOIL for my oil even in my 60.
I might get flack for this, but I have always used WIX oil filters. They meet all specs and more. I have used these in all my vehicles. I am a recovering Jeep owner and had no problems with them. They also worked great on my hot rod '63 Falcon, even with the crazy oil temp of a drag car.
ntsqd
technerd
I use Wix or the CarQuest house brand made by Wix.
Watch the diesel engine oil. Some of it is now labeled "Low Emissions" which makes me suspect that it too is low in ZDDP.
Watch the diesel engine oil. Some of it is now labeled "Low Emissions" which makes me suspect that it too is low in ZDDP.
More oil filter discussion:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/50895-oil-filter-selection.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/198267-warning-really-crappy-oil-filter.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/179729-oil-filter.html
FWIW, I currently have a Napa Gold on my FJ62. It was on sale!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/50895-oil-filter-selection.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/198267-warning-really-crappy-oil-filter.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/179729-oil-filter.html
FWIW, I currently have a Napa Gold on my FJ62. It was on sale!
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x2 on the local dealer selling you some tiny little filter. Local (Desert) parts counter didn't have the big OEM original, so I've put the small one on temporarily. it fits, and doesn't leak, but I'm not real happy with it.
I also upped to 20w-50 (hey, I 'm in AZ, its never gonna get below freezing here) and noticed a pleasing increase in my oil pressure gauge. I'll be updating to rotella and a bigger filter on the next change in 3000 miles, but agreed with the threads to avoid FRAM at all costs.
Also, get the crush washer and the little gasket for the oil plug. It *SUCKETH MIGHTILY* to have to drain all of your new fresh oil back out of the pan to replace those after the fact, cause you noticed a oil slick the next morning. Local crusty toyota mechanic said that the bigger ones (19mm) always leak, and used some sealant on the threads as well as the new washers.
YMMV - but on a FJ6x, at least you don't have to worry about it going above 20 MPG.
Glenn in Tucson
I also upped to 20w-50 (hey, I 'm in AZ, its never gonna get below freezing here) and noticed a pleasing increase in my oil pressure gauge. I'll be updating to rotella and a bigger filter on the next change in 3000 miles, but agreed with the threads to avoid FRAM at all costs.
Also, get the crush washer and the little gasket for the oil plug. It *SUCKETH MIGHTILY* to have to drain all of your new fresh oil back out of the pan to replace those after the fact, cause you noticed a oil slick the next morning. Local crusty toyota mechanic said that the bigger ones (19mm) always leak, and used some sealant on the threads as well as the new washers.
YMMV - but on a FJ6x, at least you don't have to worry about it going above 20 MPG.
Glenn in Tucson
