40 won't run without choke at half

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Hoz FJ40 CO

Hoz FJ40 CO

Joined
Nov 10, 2010
Threads
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1,238
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Hey guys I did a shakedown run this weekend (five hour round trip at 60 mph) and the 40 won't stay running unless its at half choke. Needless to say I went through ALOT of gas.

Met some of the guys from Tall Corn Cruisers and they said it should be purring with no choke. at 1/4 choke it just dies. I am going to try a carb rebuilt kit and also going to replace all the smog lines (they are a bit cracked and weathered) but wondering if there is something I am possibly missing?

Not sure if its a smog/vacuum line issue or what the problem is? I'll try to get some pics at lunch.
 
Last edited:
tucker74 said:
$20 says it's the carb, did you try spraying some starter fluid on all the usual vacuum leak culprits?

Tucker
Click to expand...
I haven't done anything yet. I will try that tonight! Thanks for the heads up.
 
Spray 2 cans carb. cleaner in with someone holding the gas pedal down . Unless its really bad that will do it. 2 cents Mike
 
Had a similar issue, turned out be a bad idle solenoid.
 
Not sure what year your cruiser is; make sure the idle solenoid is working properly.
 
Make sure that your idle solenoid is working and properly grounded.

D'oh, missed the prior comment re idle solenoid, but there are threads indicating how to test. Good luck.
 
wrt the idle solenoid, I had a similar problem. I replaced mine on my 79 FJ40 and then found that the problem was in the emissions computer. I pulled the computer and wired the solenoid directly to a switched fuse. All is well now.
 
If it is the idle solenoid would this cause my truck to lose power as well. After the 5 hour shakedown ride my battery kept going dead and was losing power. I've got it hooked to a trickle charge right now but it will keep losing power for some reason and everything that I can see if turned off.

I will check all these out and post pics as well. Thanks for all the info so far.
 
cause for both of your issues might be the alternator.
 
Here's a couple items I noticed when down in Des Moines...

1) The part I'm pointing at has what looks like a line that should be there...not sure what it goes into.
2) I am ordering a Carb Rebuild Kit from JT Outfitters Land Cruiser Carburetor Rebuild Kit - JTOutfitters
3) Going to do an electrical test on the alternator (will see if this needs replaced) help with the power issue not idling issue.
4) Where do I get the solenoid? Toyota?

I will update this thread as I get into it. Hopefully will figure this out and help others with this problem in the future.
Idleissue1.webp
Idleissue2.webp
 
I have faced this situation twice in the past and both times it was a dirty idle solenoid passage. Check it first!

The solenoid rarely goes bad from what I have gathered.
 
Where does the gas come up to in the glass on the carb? Checked the fuel filter, heck just replace it. How old is the fuel pump? Is it leaking? MIke
 
The hose you are missing goes to the base of the carburetor..
Hoz FJ40 CO said:
Here's a couple items I noticed when down in Des Moines...

1) The part I'm pointing at has what looks like a line that should be there...not sure what it goes into.
2) I am ordering a Carb Rebuild Kit from JT Outfitters Land Cruiser Carburetor Rebuild Kit - JTOutfitters
3) Going to do an electrical test on the alternator (will see if this needs replaced) help with the power issue not idling issue.
4) Where do I get the solenoid? Toyota?

I will update this thread as I get into it. Hopefully will figure this out and help others with this problem in the future.
Click to expand...
 
Yep - check for vacuum leaks, check that your idle circuit solenoid (located on the back of your carb facing the air cleaner - follow the wire around from the front of the carb) is turning on when the key turns on (should hear a click), might even have to pull it out to check that the o-ring hasn't desintegrated and clogged the passage.

See if the SOR diagram for the vacuum hose routing is good enough to go off of (if you don't have an FSM); if not see if someone has a '78 emissions diagram they can scan and send to you to reference to make sure all your hoses are connected properly. Definitely check the hoses for cracks/leaks, including the dissy hose and brake booster hose.

On the electrical, the FSM has good tests for the alternator, or you can go down to an Autozone and they can hook the cart up to your rig and check your whole charging system. If the battery is dropping voltage with everything off, put a multimeter inline with your fuses and measure the amps. You should be able to tell which circuit is bleeding off power.
 
tucker74 said:
$20 says it's the carb, did you try spraying some starter fluid on all the usual vacuum leak culprits?

Tucker
Click to expand...
Picked-up my 4/78 FJ40 last Saturday had exact same issue. Buddy and I went to Big Box Store and sprayed one can starting fluid down carb and drove home no issue. Drove all day Sunday no issue. Drove to work today.....you get the idea. Worth a try was $.99 at big box store.:hhmm:
 
Congrats Dom on your new 40. Last night I replaced all the lines except the three that come out the back of the carb. I couldn't quite get my hands in there, so will do that tonight. Also found the nipple on the side of the carb that goes to the emission thingy but it was larger than the 5/32 Vacuum hose so will get one at lunch and put it in. I bought a 25 ft spool of 5/32 Vacuum line from NAPA and it worked well! I have to go back their and replace all the hose as well. They are looking pretty beat up. Can I just get regular hose and bend it to my liking or will the hose kink?

To note though the reason it wasn't running was the cracked and brittle vacuum hoses just weren't holding anymore. After I played with the jigsaw puzzle of vacuum lines (replacing one at a time and cutting new hose to length) they held well and the truck runs decent now. Still at half choke but at least its running.

After I checked and double checked and replaced all the vacuum lines I did spray a can of carb cleaner down and around the carb and that seemed to help a bit. At a 1/4 choke it still dies.

The choke line seems to be a bit kinked from what I can see so I probably need a new choke line. I also think the idle solenoid is the culprit. Will a Carb rebuild kit address this issue? Here's some pics :
Vacuumnewhoses.webp
 
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