Idle Solenoid?

[xumFJ40]

I am trying to determine if my idle solenoid is working or not.

How do you test the actual solenoid? If I put a multi-meter between the wire that connects to the idle solenoid and the negative terminal of the battery should I get 12V with the key on?

As it stands I get .3V when I do this, so I am thinking that it is another problem....any advice?

Thanks,

 

[jwest]

With key on engine off, if you disconnect the solenoid, you should hear it click off.

 

[Pin_Head]

The function test of listening for it clicking is a good indication of correct operation, but 0.3 V at the connection can't be good. Either there is a high impedance connection upstream of the solenoid or the solenoid is shorted.

 

[xumFJ40]

Pin_head,

Ok, I know that this sounds weird, but the truck idles. However, I don't hear the click, and as I stated before the voltage is .3 between the lead that connects to the solenoid w/the neg of the multi-meter attached to the neg term of the bat....

I adjusted some idle settings on the carb this weekend.

I guess if it runs I shouldn't worry about it...

 

[Pin_Head]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

.3 V is strange because of the voltage drop across two resistors in series. The resistance of the solenoid is about 25 ohms, while the wire leading to it should be less than 1 ohm. It should read about 12V. Either the solenoid resistance is too low (shorted) or the resistance of the fed circuit is too high (bad/corroded connection).

 

[Rocky_LC]

If your PO was anything like mine, every wire on your truck should have a crappy splice in it.

If you can easily access the wire, you should be able to jumper +12V from the battery direct to the solenoid, and hear it "click" to test the function.

I wouldn't cut into a good wire for this test, though.

I can't believe the problem is in the solenoid, since a short on 12V would pull alot of current.

I looked at my wiring diagram, but couldn't tell if that curcuit is fused (it should be).

Rocky