Transfer Case Speedo Double Seal Writeup / How To (1 Viewer)

[1973Guppie]

So, I performed this mod this past weekend and thought I would post a quick writeup to hopefully benefit others whom may want to do this mod on their own. There are vendors here on the board that can swap out your speedo for very little $$ but I decided to try my hand at doing this myself as I will have to do it again on my FJ55 transfer case here soon. Plus I seem to always take the hard way, .

For people whom don't know, this is the mod where you file off the lip on a 3spd transfer case where the seal sits on the speedo housing. It is a common ailment that the drum emergency brake spline piece that sits on the seal gets scored over time and it a point for leaking. Obvious signs of this for me were excessive leaking when parked up hill and dripping from my speedo cable. The remedy is to grind off the lip, fit 2 seals in the speedo and speedi sleeve the old e brake drum.

not much more typing than this, let me know if I can help anyone, questions?, or if anyone has anything to add......

almost forgot, big thanks to Pinhead for giving me tips on this and sending me the proper bit to use...

Step 1 - remove everything, dshaft, drum, ebrake hardware, then the speedo housing....

 

[1973Guppie]

pic 1 - all the parts that are pulled

pic 2 - the speedo housing stock with removed seal

pic 3 - the speedo housing, I pulled the speedo gear sleeve thingy so it would not get gummed up when grinding off the lip

 

[1973Guppie]

pic 1 - so I mounted the rasp bit into my standard drill press and went at it using a little force on the lip and ground it down till it was level with the metal on top. Here's a link to a similar bit:
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?a...53&Category=29
many things for this will work, this bit from pinhead was nice as it was 1/4 inch cut with 1/4 shank so basically the upper shank portion kept the bit from cutting too deep. I think though after doing this you could do the same with a die grinder and any type of grinding stone bit, you would just have to be careful not too cut too much or oblong the surface of the seal housing. FYI, I finally found these rasps CHEAP on ebay, 1.50 a piece, search "rotary file" ....

pic 2 - after grinding, a little work with some 220 grit sandpaper afterwards helped smooth it up

pic 3 - with 2 seals intact, I measured the seals before putting them in so I could have a good idea how much room I would need to push the first seal down before starting the 2nd, worked out fine.

 

[bigassbike]

Looking good. Thanks for posting!

 

[1973Guppie]

pic 1 - scored stock drum

pic 2 - drum with speedo seal on it, I was careful to read the directions to place the speedo sleeve around the scores and not just bury the sleeve to the bottom of the shaft, hope I did it right? I used a litle sandpaper to lightly clean up the whole shaft before installing the speedi sleeve.

pic 3 - another shot of the speedo housing from underneath showing the 2 seals.

 

[1973Guppie]

this pic shows all the pieces cleaned up and ready to be bolted back on. Overall a fairly easy mod and so far so good, no leaks! Make sure to remember to readjust your ebrake when putting everything back together. Hope this helps someone out in the future.

Cheers,

Noah

 

[bigassbike]

May I have the Speei sleeve part number and vendor?

Thanks!

 

[1973Guppie]

call SOR, specter off road, www.sor.com or if you have some more time, cdan on the board can prob get it for you for a bit cheaper, sor is more expensive but their customer service and ship times are top notch! I got the parts the next day!!

 

[1973Guppie]

I guess I should note the parts I ordered for this mod:

2 seals, 1 speedi sleeve, 1 gasket, 1 new drum brake nut.

my ebrake pads and hardware were still ok, others may want to think about rebuilding their ebrakes when doing this, especially if the oil leak has gotten out of control and soaked the ebrake drum parts.

 

[bigassbike]

Thanks.

SOR is great. Ground is next day here in so cal.

 

[crushr]

SOR is great.

Wow - that's a first! $OR don't get no respect here.

 

[FLFJ40]

Has anyone had any problems with the outside seal burning up with this mod? It seems to me that if you speedi sleeve the sealing surface than one seal shoud be plenty. The inside seal should never leak so the outside seal will never be lubed. This will eventually destroy the sealing ability of the seal and you are back to one seal again.

 

[Coolerman]

If you fill the outside seal lip with grease and coat the back of the seal with grease then that won't happen. The grease will keep the seal lubed for a LONG time.

 

[Pin_Head]

Has anyone had any problems with the outside seal burning up with this mod? It seems to me that if you speedi sleeve the sealing surface than one seal shoud be plenty. The inside seal should never leak so the outside seal will never be lubed. This will eventually destroy the sealing ability of the seal and you are back to one seal again.

Would anybody notice? If it's not leaking it's all good.

 

[FLFJ40]

If you fill the outside seal lip with grease and coat the back of the seal with grease then that won't happen. The grease will keep the seal lubed for a LONG time.

I thought this might be the case but I hadn't seen it in any of the writeups yet.

Would anybody notice? If it's not leaking it's all good.

So wouldn't do just as good to do one or the other but not both. If you speedi sleeve it than the one seal will work great, if you don't speedi sleeve it than the double seal system works great. Just my .02

 

[1973Guppie]

yes, you could do one or the other, but I decided to do both and thus never have to worry about it leaking again!

 

[dgangle]

Great write up Noah. This should be in the Tech Links if it isn't already.

I did this exact mod in 2000 on my present ride and it's hasn't leaked a drop. Hope you have the same success as well.

It may be worth adding some verbiage or more 'how to' on the importance of setting the correct preload on the output bearing. This fix prolly wouldn't have the longevity we have seen if there is movement in the bearing and output shaft.

 

[Poser]

Has anyone had any problems with the outside seal burning up with this mod? It seems to me that if you speedi sleeve the sealing surface than one seal shoud be plenty. The inside seal should never leak so the outside seal will never be lubed. This will eventually destroy the sealing ability of the seal and you are back to one seal again.

If you fill the outside seal lip with grease and coat the back of the seal with grease then that won't happen. The grease will keep the seal lubed for a LONG time.

OEM Toyota rear output seals come pre-lubricated/greased from the factory.


Aftermarket pieces do not, and need to be, or as has been pointed out, they will fail.

 

[1973Guppie]

Great write up Noah. This should be in the Tech Links if it isn't already.

I did this exact mod in 2000 on my present ride and it's hasn't leaked a drop. Hope you have the same success as well.

It may be worth adding some verbiage or more 'how to' on the importance of setting the correct preload on the output bearing. This fix prolly wouldn't have the longevity we have seen if there is movement in the bearing and output shaft.

thanks dgangle, if you could please add the "how to" on the above, I would appreciate it, I am not familiar with this process....

 

[Poser]

thanks dgangle, if you could please add the "how to" on the above, I would appreciate it, I am not familiar with this process....

It is covered very well in the FSM, and also, I detailed it in the Orion build thread I did out here a little while back.

It would be the same for the Orion as the stock case.