4-Pinion Diff snapped and I'm Stranded!

[artwerks]

I did a search and read a lot about this. I know why my diff snapped. I'm sure its the ring gear. Problem is, I need to get my truck home and the tools I had with me today didn't suffice to pull the drive shaft and CV axles.
I'm returning to my truck on Wednesday evening to attempt to completely disengage the front diff to prevent any further damage. I was going to pull the drive shaft and the CV shafts, but is there an easier way?

On the following page rusty-tlc explains disengaging the front diff without removing the CV axles or even the front wheels. Is this possible!?!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...ront-diff-98-landcruiser-_words-wisdom-3.html

Here Skidoo mentions the same process for isolating the front diff to get out of the field…

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/736305-stock-front-4-pinion-diff-how-strong-video.html


Can anyone explain this to me in more detail? Pulling the driveshaft is straight forward, it’s the "drive flanges" that I’m confused about. I figure I need to remove the CV axles to isolate the front diff from the front wheels. If I don't have to do that it would make things a HELL of a lot easier.


TIA,
AJ

 

[100 TD]

Pull the front tail shaft, remove the drive flanges and tape the cut off end of a soda bottle over the hub to stop the grease spraying out, lock the CDL, drive away.

 

[3D FJ]

If you search my username for threads I've started and look under The one for "rth cv's". It should tell you everything there. It just happened to me last month. I am on the phone so I don't know how to link it myself.

 

[3D FJ]

Also. Remember to lock the cdl before removing the drive shaft!

 

[paflytyer]

Where is your truck? Some locals may be able to give you a hand. Did you post up on Rising Sun?

 

[Skidoo]

Rusty is right on. Just to give you more confidence I will repeat it here, just did it last week.
To remove drive flanges, don't have to take tire off. Pop hub cap, clean area well, then remove little axle cap, remove clip ring. Loosen 8 nuts and back them off so heads are flush with end of stud. Hit ends of studs with hammer on brass drift, go around all 8 a few times and cone washers will come loose. Once all cones washer are loose remove nuts and cones. Remove the drive flange. Keep left and right part in marked separate bags, the clip rings come in different thicknesses and are matched to flange and axle. Cover exposed area to keep dirt out. Remove driveshaft, center locker on, you are good to go. .

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Two in a week, that's gotta be a record. It's an epidemic!

 

[TrekboxX]

Yes, and three threads at the top about it! Holy smokes. Guess it's time for an arb soon before mine joins the graveyard!

 

[arbetrader]

I did a search and read a lot about this. I know why my diff snapped. I'm sure its the ring gear. Problem is, I need to get my truck home and the tools I had with me today didn't suffice to pull the drive shaft and CV axles.
I'm returning to my truck on Wednesday evening to attempt to completely disengage the front diff to prevent any further damage. I was going to pull the drive shaft and the CV shafts, but is there an easier way?

On the following page rusty-tlc explains disengaging the front diff without removing the CV axles or even the front wheels. Is this possible!?!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...ront-diff-98-landcruiser-_words-wisdom-3.html

Here Skidoo mentions the same process for isolating the front diff to get out of the field…

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/736305-stock-front-4-pinion-diff-how-strong-video.html


Can anyone explain this to me in more detail? Pulling the driveshaft is straight forward, it’s the "drive flanges" that I’m confused about. I figure I need to remove the CV axles to isolate the front diff from the front wheels. If I don't have to do that it would make things a HELL of a lot easier.


TIA,
AJ

Sorry to hear about this - I am curious though, as I have the 2 pinion in mine, and was thinking of upgrading to a newer model - what exactly were you doing at the time? I'm wondering how much these can actually take? I don't do any major offroading, just forest service roads etc - but were you really torquing it or?

 

[paflytyer]

Two in a week, that's gotta be a record. It's an epidemic!

Or not winter

 

[mgilvan]

Sorry to hear that
I have a question , what comes in ARB kit? I’m reading every one want to put ARB in their front diff, but what are they planning to put in(beside air lockers) ?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

That's just it, an air locker. The ARB replaces the entire front diff (except the ring gear) and reduces or hopefully eliminates the issue of deflection of the spider gears under high load that causes this type of breakage.

 

[artwerks]

Where is your truck? Some locals may be able to give you a hand. Did you post up on Rising Sun?

No, I didn't post on Rising Sun. I don't have any affiliation with RS, but I'm guessing you're going to suggest it. I wouldn't mind getting more connected with some others to go wheeling here in CO. I'm usually going by myself (i'm the only capable truck) and then I find myself in this type of situation.
My truck is in the mountains near Bailey -- Slaughterhouse.

...To remove drive flanges, don't have to take tire off. Pop hub cap, clean area well, then remove little axle cap, remove clip ring. Loosen 8 nuts and back them off so heads are flush with end of stud. Hit ends of studs with hammer on brass drift, go around all 8 a few times and cone washers will come loose. Once all cones washer are loose remove nuts and cones. Remove the drive flange. Keep left and right part in marked separate bags, the clip rings come in different thicknesses and are matched to flange and axle. Cover exposed area to keep dirt out. Remove driveshaft, center locker on, you are good to go. .

This is the most detailed description of the "drive flanges" that I have read, but I'm still a bit confused. I can get to the "drive flange" without removing the wheel and remove all bolts connecting the CV axle to the hub/wheel and thus completely isolate the front diff so it won't spin (with removing the drive shaft too, of course)????
Does anyone have a picture of this? Obviously, I can't go look at my truck at the moment since it's out in the middle of nowhere, stranded.

Thanks guys!
Aj

 

[paflytyer]

No, I didn't post on Rising Sun. I don't have any affiliation with RS, but I'm guessing you're going to suggest it. I wouldn't mind getting more connected with some others to go wheeling here in CO. I'm usually going by myself (i'm the only capable truck) and then I find myself in this type of situation.
My truck is in the mountains near Bailey -- Slaughterhouse.
Aj

PM me if you need help. We'll get you going and do a Slaughterhouse Run. There are a few guys who live VERY close.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Drive flange pic here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/446309-1991-land-cruiser-drive-flange-set.html

The splines on the flange are what engage the splines on the CV and make the wheels on the bus go round and round. No flange, no CV rotating into the diff. No driveshaft, no power from t-case rotating into diff.

 

[Skidoo]

Here is a photo without wheel on, but you don't have to take it off.
Note flange in middle with 6 (8 was wrong) nuts holding it on, it is the drive flange.
The flange has a core with splines that engage axle shaft. Remove flange and that disconnects hub & wheel from the axle. Its that simple!!!

 

[Copenhagen1]

This is the most detailed description of the "drive flanges" that I have read, but I'm still a bit confused. I can get to the "drive flange" without removing the wheel and remove all bolts connecting the CV axle to the hub/wheel and thus completely isolate the front diff so it won't spin (with removing the drive shaft too, of course)????
Does anyone have a picture of this? Obviously, I can't go look at my truck at the moment since it's out in the middle of nowhere, stranded.

Thanks guys!
Aj

I don't have a picture but just read what is in the directions. No one ever mentions removing the CV axle but you. When you lock the cdl and take the front driveshaft off, then you effectively disconnected on that side. Then when you remove the drive flanges as directed above, you have effectively disconnected it from the rotation of the front wheels that would normally cause the diff to spin. You just leave the cv's there until you get to a shop for tear down. Good luck!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[artwerks]

PM me if you need help. We'll get you going and do a Slaughterhouse Run. There are a few guys who live VERY close.

Thanks paflytyer. I'll be up at Slaughterhouse around 5pm tomorrow, Wednesday the 15th. My truck is right before the difficult, uphill section of the trail with all the rocks and ruts. That's where I blew my diff. I thought I might not finish pulling both my CVs Wed. night and have to camp overnight and finish in the morning, but since I don't have to pull the CVs, this may be a quick easy retrieval. Anyways, I'd love to meet you and see you guys run that trail if you want to come up and lend a hand. I'd be more than appreciative of it!

Here is a photo without wheel on, but you don't have to take it off.
Note flange in middle with 6 (8 was wrong) nuts holding it on, it is the drive flange.
The flange has a core with splines that engage axle shaft. Remove flange and that disconnects hub & wheel from the axle. Its that simple!!!

Drive flange pic here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/446309-1991-land-cruiser-drive-flange-set.html
The splines on the flange are what engage the splines on the CV and make the wheels on the bus go round and round. No flange, no CV rotating into the diff. No driveshaft, no power from t-case rotating into diff.

That's exactly what I needed! It all makes sense now. This is going to be easier than I thought.
Well, I shouldn't count my chickens before they hatch.

Are the flanges difficult to get off? Since they take so much torque from the CV and wheels I'm assuming they aren't just going to fall off when I remove the bolts and clip. If they do stick, are they easier to remove with the wheels off?

Aj

 

[paflytyer]

A few whacks with a bfh and it will come off. I'll PM you tonight. Do you have all the tools you need? (not much needed) If not, I'll have it.

 

[artwerks]

A few whacks with a bfh and it will come off. I'll PM you tonight. Do you have all the tools you need? (not much needed) If not, I'll have it.

I see. That's what the brass drift is for. I get it now.
I don't have a brass drift. I was thinking about buying some PB Blaster, a brass drift, and a good Craftsman (or similar ilk) socket set. The socket sets I have are not real high quality and I'm afraid I'll get out there, break my 12 or 14mm sockets and be screwed.