I just replaced the LCA ball joints with some Triple 5's sourced through AutoZone sold as DuraLast.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0650.jpg
Since there was not a thread with pictures of the actual pressing in and out process I thought I throw something together along with the tricks and tools I used to make the actual pressing process about a 10 minute per arm. Unfortunately the process of pulling the arms and putting everything back together takes a wee bit longer.
I apologize for not taking pictures of the actual removal of the arms from the truck.
Step 1. Jack the front of the truck up high enough to pull the front tires and place jack stands under the frame. i placed them under the tranny cross member and they seemed to be out of the way for everything I needed to do. Pull the tires. Pull the splash guards/skid plates.
Refer to FSM Suspension and Axle SA-73 for the following as needed.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/SA-73.jpg
Step 2. Remove all the pre-load from the torsion bars by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise until there is play/no tension on the anchor arm. I removed my entire adjuster bolt as I planned to re-index my torsion bars and also wanted to clean up and anti-seize my adjuster bolts.
Step 3. Remove the 2 nuts on each torque arm (22mm). Then mark each torque arm in relation to the torsion bar so that you can return them to their original orientation.
Step 4. Using a large screw driver, pry bar, hammer, etc. as needed to slide the torque arms rearward on the splines of the torsion bars enough to clear the captured mounting bolt, or off if you marked them in step 3.
Step 5. Remove the lower control arm mounting nuts, leaving the bolts in place (22mm).
Step 6. Remove the lower shock bolt (19mm).
Step 7. Remove the sway bar nut, washer and bushing (14mm).
Step 8. Remove cotter pin, and ball joint nut (24mm)
Step 9. Release ball joint taper. I have almost always used a small sledge hammer for this purpose on my Toyotas and my BMWs. On my BMWs there is usually a square boss at ball joint tapers designed for hitting. A few smacks with my small sledge and the ball joint was released. YMMV
Step 10. Pull the bolts from the inner pivots and rotate the ball joint out of the taper.
Step 11. Remove the C clip from the ball joint. I used an inherited set of old pliers that worked perfectly and pushed the clip out with ease.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0648.jpg
Step 12. Place the arm in your Harbor Freight 20 ton shop press. I bought one specifically for this project but have needed one many times before. They have a "super coupon" right now for $169.99.
Step 12.a To press the ball out I used a 2" metal conduit coupler under the arm. It wasn't really needed but I bought it for the press in and it did make it a bit easier to balance the arm during the press. Be ready for the POP when it breaks loose.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0638.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0643.jpg
Step 12.b To press the new joint in I used the 2" metal conduit coupler mentioned above along with a 2" pipe nipple which fit perfectly around the boot and had a solid surface to press the joint in. Both were sourced at Home Depot for around $4/ea. I also smeared a bit of grease in the opening before installing the joint. On top of the nipple is a plate of steel I picked up at the steel yard years ago to pound on. Any flat thick piece of steel that is larger than the 2" nipple circumference will do.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0644.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0646.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0640.jpg
Step 12.c Reinstall the C clip around the ball joint. I used a punch and hammer to nudge it back in place.
Step 13. Reinstall everything pretty much in reverse order. Don't forget to tighten the arm pivot bolts before putting the torsion bar torque arms back into place. You will need to hold the bolt head with a box end wrench and the head is blocked when the torque arm is in place.
Comparison pics:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0650.jpg
Since there was not a thread with pictures of the actual pressing in and out process I thought I throw something together along with the tricks and tools I used to make the actual pressing process about a 10 minute per arm. Unfortunately the process of pulling the arms and putting everything back together takes a wee bit longer.
I apologize for not taking pictures of the actual removal of the arms from the truck.
Step 1. Jack the front of the truck up high enough to pull the front tires and place jack stands under the frame. i placed them under the tranny cross member and they seemed to be out of the way for everything I needed to do. Pull the tires. Pull the splash guards/skid plates.
Refer to FSM Suspension and Axle SA-73 for the following as needed.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/SA-73.jpg
Step 2. Remove all the pre-load from the torsion bars by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise until there is play/no tension on the anchor arm. I removed my entire adjuster bolt as I planned to re-index my torsion bars and also wanted to clean up and anti-seize my adjuster bolts.
Step 3. Remove the 2 nuts on each torque arm (22mm). Then mark each torque arm in relation to the torsion bar so that you can return them to their original orientation.
Step 4. Using a large screw driver, pry bar, hammer, etc. as needed to slide the torque arms rearward on the splines of the torsion bars enough to clear the captured mounting bolt, or off if you marked them in step 3.
Step 5. Remove the lower control arm mounting nuts, leaving the bolts in place (22mm).
Step 6. Remove the lower shock bolt (19mm).
Step 7. Remove the sway bar nut, washer and bushing (14mm).
Step 8. Remove cotter pin, and ball joint nut (24mm)
Step 9. Release ball joint taper. I have almost always used a small sledge hammer for this purpose on my Toyotas and my BMWs. On my BMWs there is usually a square boss at ball joint tapers designed for hitting. A few smacks with my small sledge and the ball joint was released. YMMV
Step 10. Pull the bolts from the inner pivots and rotate the ball joint out of the taper.
Step 11. Remove the C clip from the ball joint. I used an inherited set of old pliers that worked perfectly and pushed the clip out with ease.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0648.jpg
Step 12. Place the arm in your Harbor Freight 20 ton shop press. I bought one specifically for this project but have needed one many times before. They have a "super coupon" right now for $169.99.
Step 12.a To press the ball out I used a 2" metal conduit coupler under the arm. It wasn't really needed but I bought it for the press in and it did make it a bit easier to balance the arm during the press. Be ready for the POP when it breaks loose.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0638.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0643.jpg
Step 12.b To press the new joint in I used the 2" metal conduit coupler mentioned above along with a 2" pipe nipple which fit perfectly around the boot and had a solid surface to press the joint in. Both were sourced at Home Depot for around $4/ea. I also smeared a bit of grease in the opening before installing the joint. On top of the nipple is a plate of steel I picked up at the steel yard years ago to pound on. Any flat thick piece of steel that is larger than the 2" nipple circumference will do.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0644.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0646.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0640.jpg
Step 12.c Reinstall the C clip around the ball joint. I used a punch and hammer to nudge it back in place.
Step 13. Reinstall everything pretty much in reverse order. Don't forget to tighten the arm pivot bolts before putting the torsion bar torque arms back into place. You will need to hold the bolt head with a box end wrench and the head is blocked when the torque arm is in place.
Comparison pics: