An illustrated guide to replacing your APPS
I've been following this group for a while and it's helped me out so figured I'd give back. I've attached pics from my recent successful change of the APPS sensor on my 2000 LC. This is an easy job (only slightly more complicated than installing a new power antenna) that I did in 20 degree weather in my snowy driveway. Took an hour start to finish total but you should be able to do in less. The only reason this doesn't take 15min is you need to remove parts of the intake from the engine for easy access to the APPS.
Symptons:
Got the typical CEL - w/ sympathy lights "VSC/Trac" "VSC Off" and loss of power. Unless you floor it the engine stays @ idle - I seemed to be able to go about a max of 50mph in this state. (and no the cruise control does not work under this condition). If you turn off/turn on the car the lights stay on but you're back to full power. At least for a little while that works. Only seemed to occur in cold weather (5 degrees the 1st time and 15 degrees the 2nd) It also seems to automagically fix itself when the outside temperature (not engine temp) warms up. However due to the potential for ruining a trip i decided to fix quickly.
Bought an OBD scanner for my laptop and diagnosed P1120 error.
OBDPros
The part number is a little confusing: APPS = Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor which in Toyota parts language = Throttle Lever Assembly. So if you've got a P1120 error ask for the Throttle Lever Assembly, part number 22060-50011.
1) Get part - I paid ~$230 from a dealer in TX - local CT dealer wanted ~$310.
2) Get tools ready - medium phillips screwdriver - rachet set -
3) Remove engine cover
4) Disconnect the throttle cable from the APPS
4) Disconnect the electrical connector from the APPS
5) Disconnect intake from airbox
6) Disconnect other side of intake from front of engine block
7) remove 2 hoses in picture
8) remove 2 screws that attach to the engine - see picture (DON'T FORGET REAR SCREW) You can see in the picture that i neglected to remove the screw and it cracked - I'm thinking it'll be ok as the box is very rigid and it should stay in place without it - GIve me a few months and i'll let you know how that works out.
9) remove the three sensor retaining screws and remove the sensor
10) insert new sensor
11) Ensure that the throttle plate is closed - it should be.
12) Install the APPS so that it's about 20 degrees to the left of it's actual installed position
13) Gradually rotate the APPS clockwise until it touches the throttle valve shaft, then tighten the three screws securely (steps 12+13 are the official from the factory man steps - I didn't exactly do this but jiggered it around until it fit correctly - seems to work fine)
14) Reverse steps 3-9
15) My engine idles btwn 675-700 RPM's when warm - and ~15.7% throttle position (from OBD software)- After install it did exactly the same
16) Reset error code in OBD software (you can alternately disconnect battery for ~15min which I've heard will reset the CEL light)
14) Take test drive to confirm it works (important as you're messing with the throttle cable - don't want anything going wrong here)
You're done!
See all pics here: Picasa Web Albums - joe - TLC
I've been following this group for a while and it's helped me out so figured I'd give back. I've attached pics from my recent successful change of the APPS sensor on my 2000 LC. This is an easy job (only slightly more complicated than installing a new power antenna) that I did in 20 degree weather in my snowy driveway. Took an hour start to finish total but you should be able to do in less. The only reason this doesn't take 15min is you need to remove parts of the intake from the engine for easy access to the APPS.
Symptons:
Got the typical CEL - w/ sympathy lights "VSC/Trac" "VSC Off" and loss of power. Unless you floor it the engine stays @ idle - I seemed to be able to go about a max of 50mph in this state. (and no the cruise control does not work under this condition). If you turn off/turn on the car the lights stay on but you're back to full power. At least for a little while that works. Only seemed to occur in cold weather (5 degrees the 1st time and 15 degrees the 2nd) It also seems to automagically fix itself when the outside temperature (not engine temp) warms up. However due to the potential for ruining a trip i decided to fix quickly.
Bought an OBD scanner for my laptop and diagnosed P1120 error.
OBDPros
The part number is a little confusing: APPS = Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor which in Toyota parts language = Throttle Lever Assembly. So if you've got a P1120 error ask for the Throttle Lever Assembly, part number 22060-50011.
1) Get part - I paid ~$230 from a dealer in TX - local CT dealer wanted ~$310.
2) Get tools ready - medium phillips screwdriver - rachet set -
3) Remove engine cover
4) Disconnect the throttle cable from the APPS
4) Disconnect the electrical connector from the APPS
5) Disconnect intake from airbox
6) Disconnect other side of intake from front of engine block
7) remove 2 hoses in picture
8) remove 2 screws that attach to the engine - see picture (DON'T FORGET REAR SCREW) You can see in the picture that i neglected to remove the screw and it cracked - I'm thinking it'll be ok as the box is very rigid and it should stay in place without it - GIve me a few months and i'll let you know how that works out.
9) remove the three sensor retaining screws and remove the sensor
10) insert new sensor
11) Ensure that the throttle plate is closed - it should be.
12) Install the APPS so that it's about 20 degrees to the left of it's actual installed position
13) Gradually rotate the APPS clockwise until it touches the throttle valve shaft, then tighten the three screws securely (steps 12+13 are the official from the factory man steps - I didn't exactly do this but jiggered it around until it fit correctly - seems to work fine)
14) Reverse steps 3-9
15) My engine idles btwn 675-700 RPM's when warm - and ~15.7% throttle position (from OBD software)- After install it did exactly the same
16) Reset error code in OBD software (you can alternately disconnect battery for ~15min which I've heard will reset the CEL light)
14) Take test drive to confirm it works (important as you're messing with the throttle cable - don't want anything going wrong here)
You're done!
See all pics here: Picasa Web Albums - joe - TLC
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