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- Thread starter Lil'John
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Yes and yes.
On bent links, you may have to add little struts to keep them from floping over if you are using rod ends. Or one end needs to be a bushing so it will not flop. I know there are some pictures on Pirate4x4 dealing with bent links.
correct, the green line represents your squat calculations...the bend only adds clearance.
To keep them from rotating, you'll need to run a bushing-type joint at the frame side. The axle-side can still be a heim/johnny/etc. type joint to allow for the axle flex.
To keep them from rotating, you'll need to run a bushing-type joint at the frame side. The axle-side can still be a heim/johnny/etc. type joint to allow for the axle flex.
Depending on link geometry, this can be reversed as well.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! The lower control arms on the front of my 80 are just like that. Works fine. Do you have a pinion clearance or angle problem? Not sure that a linked setup would fix angles without still doing a basic cut n turn to maintain ujoint angles and steering geometry. John
I've got a box full of bushings/sleeves and flex joints. My understanding was that I wanted a bushing at the axle and flex joint at the frame
It entirely depends on the link setup you are planning on using.
My 60's rear 3 link wishbone has lowers with the bushings on the axle end and an upper wishbone with bushings at the frame end.
And, my rear shocks are mounted to the side of the lower links.
inkpot
SILVER Star
OK. I hadn't looked at a Dana 60 close enough to see the axle perch. Lazy me would just make a little cradle to put on top of it, and then just space up the other side to match. If you go with the links, you'll still have to fab up some angled perch for the coil buckets. I'd say go for it. If your ever going to do the links, now's the time. John
I'm trying to decide why to pick bushings at the frame vs bushings at the axle...hard to come up with a good justification for one over the other...
IMO, bushings are there for two reasons: 1> prevent link rotation on bend links and 2> isolation of any noises from the rear heims. In that vein, I'd want the isolation at the frame, and I'd want the link bends to remain consistent with the frame, not the axle....
IMO, bushings are there for two reasons: 1> prevent link rotation on bend links and 2> isolation of any noises from the rear heims. In that vein, I'd want the isolation at the frame, and I'd want the link bends to remain consistent with the frame, not the axle....
It really depends on the links and the suspension design.. If your links are moving straight up and down, then the bushings on the frame side make the most sense, if the axle moves laterally quite a bit, then bushings on teh axle side make the most sense.
It all comes down to what suspension geometry you have.
It all comes down to what suspension geometry you have.
According to this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/8268-starts.html
...my QA-1 EXMR/EXML 5/8 bore-3/4 thread heims were installed in 2004. I've replaced one due to breakage, the balance are still installed and working fine.
I wheel my rig
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yes, weight is important...ideally, find a race shop so you can weigh each corner individually. Hard part is still measuring the roll center (assumption I believe is the flywheel)...I read a thread on jeepforum (IIRC) where someone determined a way to find the exact balance center of their rig...believe they did a controlled winch/rollover where they balanced it on two tires, checked the angles, and calculated from there.
I'd just guess
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/8268-starts.html
...my QA-1 EXMR/EXML 5/8 bore-3/4 thread heims were installed in 2004. I've replaced one due to breakage, the balance are still installed and working fine.
I wheel my rig
--------
yes, weight is important...ideally, find a race shop so you can weigh each corner individually. Hard part is still measuring the roll center (assumption I believe is the flywheel)...I read a thread on jeepforum (IIRC) where someone determined a way to find the exact balance center of their rig...believe they did a controlled winch/rollover where they balanced it on two tires, checked the angles, and calculated from there.
I'd just guess
believe they did a controlled winch/rollover where they balanced it on two tires, checked the angles, and calculated from there.
I'd just guess
Woody belives in rolling his rig after it is built, not in the process
I have bushings on both sides of all my links. I have no complaints.
Why not go to a double cv shaft in the front? It will relieve a lot of the pinion angle and much cheaper than going through all the work of cutting things apart and welding everything back together.
LT, Are you saying a Drive shaft with a CV at both ends? Or just at the Tcase end?
If you do it with the CV at the tcase end the OP would still have to rotate the pinion up. And the big problem with that is the D60 has the Spring pad machined into the center casting.
The Double CV is something that can be done. I am not a big fan of them tho..
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Multiple Double Cardan (CV)
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Multiple Double Cardan (CV)
Unless you've found a need for high speed trail runs, the front CV shaft is not necessary...I don't run one on my front setup, and the angles are quite a bit different. I run a High Angle front shaft with minitruck joints...no issues.
You'd then need front lockouts instead of drive flanges...less stress for road runs anyways.
You'd then need front lockouts instead of drive flanges...less stress for road runs anyways.
keep in mind that if you go with a full time fj80 case and dont cut and turn the axle you must have a good front cv shaft to prevent vibes. but on the other hand the dodge drive flanges are so much stronger than the locking hubs. if you have 350 hp and 6000lbs on hubs, hubs will be your weak link
but if u have a selectable 2 speed case you can use a cheep dshaft you made in your garage with your pals. you just saved a lot of cash
1/8 inch wall upper link is plenty. thats all oe uses.
the spring perches on the dodge d60 can be in the way if u are shooting for a 60" wide track. your lower link and your spring will occupy the same plane. dooable and baddass
but if u have a selectable 2 speed case you can use a cheep dshaft you made in your garage with your pals. you just saved a lot of cash
1/8 inch wall upper link is plenty. thats all oe uses.
the spring perches on the dodge d60 can be in the way if u are shooting for a 60" wide track. your lower link and your spring will occupy the same plane. dooable and baddass