Painting with PPG Omni (1 Viewer)

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A search turned up quite a few posts from others that have used PPG Omni. So far I don't remember anything bad said about it.

I'm getting close to painting my FJ40 with dune beige (original color). I've been told that the Omni colors don't match up as closely as the more expensive DCC paint.

I'm curious how close to the original color it is. Anyone with experience? It would also be interesting to know about the other original colors and how closely they matched too.

I don't plan to paint some of the inside surfaces unless I have to (e.g. dash, windshield frame) .

Haven't decided yet on single stage or base/clear, but leaning towards base/clear.

Thanks.

-Scott
 
I used omni base/clear in dune beige, and loved how it turned out. It matched up well with my original gas tank cover. The rest of the truck had been repainted. A good paint, at a good price.

later

RYan
 
Here is a pic of her on the way elk hunting last year.
 
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I do not know the answer to your question but do you know if the PPG omni line uses isocyanates in the hardener? I am having a difficult time finding any paint hardener that does not use isocyanates and I don't have supplied air so I am very hesitant to shoot anything containing isocyanates.

If one skips the hardener does it just increase the dry time or will it really effect the durability of the paintjob?
 
Your paint jobber is just flat lying to you. I use both Omni and the higher priced regular PPG line, and my jobber has always guaranteed the same color match. It has always matched. Someone's trying to sell you down the river.
 
John Smith said:
I do not know the answer to your question but do you know if the PPG omni line uses isocyanates in the hardener? I am having a difficult time finding any paint hardener that does not use isocyanates and I don't have supplied air so I am very hesitant to shoot anything containing isocyanates.

If one skips the hardener does it just increase the dry time or will it really effect the durability of the paint job?


I thought that was only the Urethane paint.
I've shot Omni without hardener. I just shot my sons GTI black with a flattener additive and the more hardener you added the less flat the finish was. I think the paint would set up before the flattener could surface on the paint. The paint set up just as hard but took about twice as long to dry.



Edit: I just checked out Steel's link and it said:
Omni
This is a fast drying acrylic enamel. This product can be used by itself or combined with a Polyurethane enhancer. This Product equal to PPG Mh101 is added at a rate of 1 pint per gallon. The addition of the hardener will provide increased durability and performance.


So it is a Polyurethane additive so I guess it does have isocyanates.
Kevin
 
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Ryan, Your rig looks really nice. Thanks for the info. I sent you an email earlier when I saw another post of yours from a search.

You don't remember what the "numbers" of the base & clear were do you? I'm guessing it was the MBP urethane base coat? I'm a little confused on the clears right now. More "P-sheets" to read.... lot's to learn about this. Last I painted a car was a loooooong time ago.
 
Texx,

I guess the paint sales person got me worried for nothing. It sounds like the color match of Omni is right on for the dune beige. An old cruiser color is probably pretty simple to mix compared to later cars/trucks.

I was also told that the Omni doesn't cover as well and that it takes more coats (or thicker coats?).
 
John - I thought I read a sheet for an enamel version of Omni like Toyo-FJ40 mentioned where it can be used with or w/o hardner. I think it's called "MAE". Still sorting it out - so take it with a grain of salt. I'm in the level before being a beginner...

-Scott
 
terrx said:
John - I thought I read a sheet for an enamel version of Omni like Toyo-FJ40 mentioned where it can be used with or w/o hardner. I think it's called "MAE". Still sorting it out - so take it with a grain of salt. I'm in the level before being a beginner...

-Scott

Yep. MAE is acrylic enamel. Single stage paint like almost all automotive paints used to be. It's hard to correct errors using it but has a creamy sort of appearance in the biege's that in my opinion can't be beat. Looks sort of like mocha coffee.
 
Terrx,

I will look ot my paint, and get you the #'s you need. No prob!

later
Ryan
 
terrx said:
Texx,

I guess the paint sales person got me worried for nothing. It sounds like the color match of Omni is right on for the dune beige. An old cruiser color is probably pretty simple to mix compared to later cars/trucks.

I was also told that the Omni doesn't cover as well and that it takes more coats (or thicker coats?).

You are correct in that it doesn't cover as well. It's actually a matter of dilution. I don't have the ratio right here in front of me, but if delstar is more or less 50/50, omni is like 2 parts paint to one part reducer (plus hardener, if used). It's just thinner, in the can. One gallon will still paint a 40, with leftover, if said vehicle is sealed first with dp50 , leaving one solid grey color to cover. Dune beige covers particulary well in my experience.
 
Texx,

I was planning to send out the fenders, hood, grill, side panels, etc - everything but the tub - to be media blasted and painted with an epoxy primer. I'm not sure what epoxy primer they use but the color is black.

If the tub is primed/sealed with the dp50 grey color and other things primed black, would there be a difference in color of the dune beige? I thought I read somewhere that the primer color affects the base color especially on the lighter colors. Or maybe it won't be noticeable.
 
I used a self building primer, that was gray. I would suggest uding gray instead of black, just for the reason you stated above.

later

RYan
 
John Smith said:
I do not know the answer to your question but do you know if the PPG omni line uses isocyanates in the hardener? I am having a difficult time finding any paint hardener that does not use isocyanates and I don't have supplied air so I am very hesitant to shoot anything containing isocyanates.

If one skips the hardener does it just increase the dry time or will it really effect the durability of the paintjob?

John Smith,

I was just at Sherman Williams Auto Paint the other day buying some supplies, not the best paint, but they have have an ISO free system and they said that they'll have some water based paints in the near future.

Also, Eastwood has water based ISO free stuff right now.

With out the activator, the paint will not be as hard. It might get there over time in the right conditions, but in my first hand experience it did not.

-Stumbaugh
 
There's no problems inherent with the black primer, but I prefer to go with one color overall. The DP50 is a non-sanding primer, that when reduced, serves as a sealer, and gives one color to the truck, making a uniform coverage just alot easier. Do your body work with a sandable primer in order to build a good surface. DP50 should be the last thing before paint, and there's no prep between it, and paint, which should occur within about 4-6 hours tops of sealing.
 
I just painted my 40 with PPG Omni, dune beige. I have painted tractors and trucks with Omni and always had excellent results. I always use the hardener. I think the color is as true with the Omni line as with the more expensive paints. Go with it.
 

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