Head Gasket Repair, Observations, and now the rebuild

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 16, 2003
Threads
345
Messages
3,650
Location
Charleston
Website
www.oldenorthstatecruisers.com
Does anyone have the head gasket DVD for the 80 Series or insight on a 1HD-T or 12H motor, the 80 is in need of a top end rebuild and I know many have found the DVD to be very helpful.

Guess this is what happens when you don't drive them but every few months....
 
Greg, was going to but one from Doug here soon but have not as of yet. This might be a good thing for a club purchase or i will get it then can mail it to others as needed.
 
Are you saying you would just assume throw a diesel in as do a head gasket?
 
Last edited:
I'd do the same. Make that two diesels for Greg and myself... mine for the 40 though...
 
Whew....that's quite a jump. Hmm....$300 in parts for a head gasket or $8k on an engine swap. Personally, I would swap in a Tundra motor and be done with it. You can pick one of those up for under a grand sometimes and the $7k in savings over going diesel will pay for a whole lot of gallons.
I know that sounds nuts coming from someone who imported diesels (and still runs one) but.....
The biggest advantage of diesel I have seen was when we went to the Maze. Everyone else carried multiple fuel cans and used them, I took none and had fuel to spare. That's huge, but you guys don't really get exposure to that type of trip over there.

Greg, what are you looking for as far as head gasket advice? Robbie A. lives out here and had done a ton of them. I'm sure he wouldn't mind talking to you about it. Really nice guy.
 
Greg, I should have the DVD somewhere (need to look for it) and can let you borrow it. Send me a PM with your address and I'll try to mail it out tomorrow.
 
Okay guys, I have spent the last few weeks slowly working on tearing down the motor and finally getting to a position to finally pull the head off and observe what issues may be present. I don't have tons of pictures because my focus has been more on the task at hand than the photo ops. While it has been a daunting task it has actually been enjoyable. There have been a few stubborn or hard to get objectives but all in all it just a time consuming bolt removal process.

Hope to have an update early next week once the head is off and at machine shop.
 
Greg,

Do you have a lead on a machine shop? Hopefully, I'll have my head off tomorrow and will need to send it out. I have no idea who to use in the area.

Thanks,
terry
 
Greg,

Do you have a lead on a machine shop? Hopefully, I'll have my head off tomorrow and will need to send it out. I have no idea who to use in the area.

Thanks,
terry

I've used Carquest, if you drop it off at any of the local stores, they send it their shop in Raleigh. I didn't have head work done there but the work I had done was done well. I went down to the shop to meet the machinist and its a nice shop.

I just used a shop in Durham for the head and engine work on my current project. it's called HRT (HRT Performance - handcraftedracing.com) and they did a nice job. It's privately owned (used to be part of T.Hoff) and a 2-3 man shop.

My head job was $300. They also went thru my 2F block, again, good work.

Hope this helps...
 
Thanks Jerry,

I took my head to T. Hoff in Raleigh, off of Capital. $50 for cleaning and pressurizing. $50 for machining. $8 a valve to rework. So a total of about $200. I'll let you know how it turns out. Hopefully, they'll have it done by Tuesday or Wednesday.

Thanks again,
Terry
 
I think mine's coming off this week/weekend as well.

:beer: R
 
If either of you need help this week, let me know. My schedule is fairly flexible and my exhaust valves are burnt, so it's going to be later in the week before I can start putting mine back together. I'm a novice when it comes to wrenching, so it'd be interesting to see how others do it.

Terry
 
Updated info and need opiions

So after three weeks on and off I was finally able to get the head removed. upon removal it is apparent it was apparent it was the head gasket. I have not had a chance to remove the valve shims and see if a spring is broke or a valve is bent that would be causing the knock or if it is bottom end. See photos. I should be able to get it to the machine shop tomorrow and have a better idea. From there I will make my decisions on what to do with the truck and drive train.

Feel free to offer your opinions on what you feel could be the issue from the photos.

:beer: Greg
CIMG0191.webp
CIMG0194.webp
CIMG0193.webp
 
Im a total novice in 1fzland and motors mostly but from reading up on the 2f I would hypothesize

the rod bearing could be going out providing the slop in the piston of the scarred chamber. (looks to be third back)
This would be your knock and scarring tied together.
Does it coincide with the last pic showing the intake valve on the left that is discolored?

I believe if you jack up the frame and not the axle you could drop the lower oil pan and check the # 3 bearing for wear/play and oiler alignment.

great work so far and good luck. Alex will make you a deal on an OEM HG he has here in the box.
 
attachment.php


If i'm looking at this correct there is lots of scaring in that cylinder wall.
This means that something is loose or going bad in the bottom end, most likely a bearing. That would also be causing your knock.
Drop the pan and check on it.


edit: Jason beat me too it.... damn slow phone.
 
Will follow up in next few days/weeks, found the issue....#3 when brought to top has slop in piston. I can almost duplicate the knock in a slower pattern by pushing back and forth on the top of the piston. I am going to weigh several options at this point and make a decision on moving forward.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom