Because anyone who gives a fxxx about real wheeling builds minitrucks, etc. DUH!!!! 
4Wheel Underground FJ80 3Link....... Now available!!! ***A Full frontal attack***
- Thread starter 4WheelUnderground
- Start date
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4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
- Thread starter
- #102
The Cobra towers for the mini truck sit on top of the frame and lean out. But even with the mini trucks its near impossible to avoid modifying either the back of the tower or build a new steering shaft around the tower. I'd like to build one for the 80 that looks good and doesn't force additional mods. As for the ballistic ones, I not a fan of those-they work but don't look to be that strong. The price is great but they look like .....
Sorry if I missed this someplace but how is the panhard addressed with the kit?
Understood the draglink under the hi steer but you still need to raise the stock location of the panhard correct?
And what about clearance between the panhard and steering links?
Thanks
-A
Understood the draglink under the hi steer but you still need to raise the stock location of the panhard correct?
And what about clearance between the panhard and steering links?
Thanks
-A
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4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
- Thread starter
- #106
Wednesday bump. For anyone that hasn't seen it yet.
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
- Thread starter
- #107
Okay so to everyone that has asked what steering do I need to run with this 3link lets go over the basics.
Factory steering will work though I recommend that after a certain point hi steer will be an asset to your performance. Lets call it after 3"s of lift I recommend going to high steer. I know Action Jackson did it with 6" and you can too I just recommend a high steer arm at some point.
Hell Fire Knuckles. First off let me say this any hi steer arm you buy will require you to run the drag link under that steering arm. This was done on purposes for clearance reasons and wheel travel. So hell Fire Knuckles require you to run the Drag link under the arm. The Hell Fire system is the only system that allows you to run TRE's instead of forcing you to run Heims. You can choose to run the tie rod in the factory location, or with a chevy Y style system or you can get the over seas arms and run the drag link in front but you will have to use heims with this last option because of limited space. We are fairly certain that you wont be able to get a TRE on top of the stock steering arm and a TRE under the hi steer arm. Just not enough room because of the tapered stud being built into them very unlike a bolt that slides thought a heim.
Slee Hi Steer. Chances are that the Chevy Y style wont work here since Slee arms are typically for heims. Beyond that the tie rod can go in front of the axle provided you have the over seas arm for double shear or behind the axle in the factory location. The drag link still needs to be under the hi steer arm.
Any questions
Factory steering will work though I recommend that after a certain point hi steer will be an asset to your performance. Lets call it after 3"s of lift I recommend going to high steer. I know Action Jackson did it with 6" and you can too I just recommend a high steer arm at some point.
Hell Fire Knuckles. First off let me say this any hi steer arm you buy will require you to run the drag link under that steering arm. This was done on purposes for clearance reasons and wheel travel. So hell Fire Knuckles require you to run the Drag link under the arm. The Hell Fire system is the only system that allows you to run TRE's instead of forcing you to run Heims. You can choose to run the tie rod in the factory location, or with a chevy Y style system or you can get the over seas arms and run the drag link in front but you will have to use heims with this last option because of limited space. We are fairly certain that you wont be able to get a TRE on top of the stock steering arm and a TRE under the hi steer arm. Just not enough room because of the tapered stud being built into them very unlike a bolt that slides thought a heim.
Slee Hi Steer. Chances are that the Chevy Y style wont work here since Slee arms are typically for heims. Beyond that the tie rod can go in front of the axle provided you have the over seas arm for double shear or behind the axle in the factory location. The drag link still needs to be under the hi steer arm.
Any questions
Theoretically you could though right? If you drill out the Slee arm and use a tapered insert on the bottom or ream it out from underneath, it should be the same as a Hellfire setup right?
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
- Thread starter
- #109
Correct
You mean something like this...Work in progress...
Going to have to switch this up a bit as Jose mentioned, drop the drag below the upper mount and run Y link most likely with coils still on the rig. Once you go to a 3 link with coil overs... That opens the doors for more options as you have way more room for brackets and such.
-A
Going to have to switch this up a bit as Jose mentioned, drop the drag below the upper mount and run Y link most likely with coils still on the rig. Once you go to a 3 link with coil overs... That opens the doors for more options as you have way more room for brackets and such.
-A
Will this work on a right hand drive truck?
Thank you,
Dan
Thank you,
Dan
Ok, back to the shower tower issue. Since I'll be one of the earlier adopters and your kit doesn't have a shock tower solution, I need to get a grasp on what I'll be doing. I'd like to be at about 4~5" of lift height up front, so that will have to drive my decision.
I was leaning towards the Ballistic towers because they're the only ones I know of that don't require modification and are adjustable in height. But you say these are weak. Is it because the way they bolt up? I've seen two builds on MUD using them and no issues that I'm aware of
@sorensenjg with your 3-link kit
And @js93cruiser on his custom build
@jodo used some custom towers (made by Currie I believe?) which he had to extend in order to run 14" coilovers. No issues with the steering shaft though.
Then @Booger weldz used the Ruffstuff towers which are built like tanks, but required some notching to fit steering shaft. Perhaps I could bribe him to notch a set for me?
Aside from these towers, what other options do I have that clears the steering shaft without having to modify the tower? Hoops?
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Id not run hoops without a crossbar.
Barnes makes a set. I found my ruffstuff ones needing to be a little taller. Barnes are taller but you can cut them down. The ruffstuff ones are sweet, ruffstuff made me a set for a larger diamater bolt and then accidentally shipped the wrong bolts (I was surprised it came with bolts though!) and when they realized they paid fastenal and had me pick the bolts I needed there. Pretty damn good customer service.
In my opinion if you can't modify a shock tower you have no business here. Wanting to may be another story but it may be the right way to do it.
Barnes makes a set. I found my ruffstuff ones needing to be a little taller. Barnes are taller but you can cut them down. The ruffstuff ones are sweet, ruffstuff made me a set for a larger diamater bolt and then accidentally shipped the wrong bolts (I was surprised it came with bolts though!) and when they realized they paid fastenal and had me pick the bolts I needed there. Pretty damn good customer service.
In my opinion if you can't modify a shock tower you have no business here. Wanting to may be another story but it may be the right way to do it.
It's more of not wanting to. If I can find a tower that works without modification then it makes the whole project that much easier. Less stuff to worry about. But if it's the only way to go then it's the only way to go.
Barnes towers look good, similar to the Ruffstuff but taller, 14" vs 12". Might be the way to go if I have to modify. But I gotta admit, the simplicity and adjustability of the Ballistic towers is appealing...
The ruffstuff towers are too short for up travel potential w 3" fender cuts and 35s with a 14" 2.5 shock.
Mine is built around big articulation w stock sheet metal(no flares) and 37s. If I wanted to cut and stuff tires I'd need a 12" 2.5 or short body 2.0 14(21.5" compressed shocks vs 24.5). Or different towers.
Mine is built around big articulation w stock sheet metal(no flares) and 37s. If I wanted to cut and stuff tires I'd need a 12" 2.5 or short body 2.0 14(21.5" compressed shocks vs 24.5). Or different towers.
Gotcha. So for my setup would you recommend the Barnes or Ballistic towers then? I'm on 37s. Aiming for 4-5" lift. If I'm doing all this work I want to maximize up travel as much as possible. I've already cut 3" out of the fenders and don't mind cutting more if I have to.
How close are you the the MC?
Yeah, you probably wanna be 15-16" off the frame(depends, my towers lean back on the down slope of the frame).
There's shorter shocks than the 24.5" compressed fox 2.5 14" as well. The 'performance series' are like 1" shorter(23.45) compared to the 'factory series', and cheaper.
There's shorter shocks than the 24.5" compressed fox 2.5 14" as well. The 'performance series' are like 1" shorter(23.45) compared to the 'factory series', and cheaper.
Like 1.5" below it, but a skinner top bolt shape and 90degree upright towers will miss the MC. My axles like 2"+ forward though
There's nearly 2" of potential up travel I'm not using, but it would rip the fenders/tires to shreds on articulation and I can't stop that, my bumps are slightly inboard the shocks(as the would be for anyone).
