*SOLD*
Beautiful 1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 for sale $27,500.
Located in Bainbridge Is, WA.
Background
motor-
Original 2f motor. Odometer reads 20k; actual mileage unknown. The previous owner claimed it had been rebuilt but unfortunately had no documentation. I replaced the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal when I had the transmission out to replace the clutch. I’ve also replaced the valve cover gasket. It runs great so I’ve never had a reason to do anything else to it.
carburetor- Original carb I had rebuilt by Mark Algazy (marksoffroad.net) shortly after I purchased it.
-desmogged shortly after I purchased it. I kept all the smog equipment though, including the original exhaust manifold and smog pump. It now has a tri-y header from marks off-road along with new exhaust. Definitely feel like this freed up a couple ponies.
-new toyota oem water pump
-new heavy duty marine grade 1awg battery cables and grounds
-stock distributor, new plugs and wires. I have the parts to do the popular dented side cover and fj60 distributor upgrade but never got around to installing as the stock setup works great.
-new aisin brake master cylinder
-stock air cleaner media blasted, primed, painted
-new oem air filter
-new radiator and radiator hose kit from CCOT
-new thermostat
-new belt
Transmission/axles-
-the entire clutch system is new, less than 500 miles on it. New master cylinder and slave cylinder. New clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and pilot bearing. All Japanese parts. Also had the flywheel resurfaced and replaced the flywheel bolts with oem hardened flywheel bolts.
-original 4 speed transmission, shifts great.
-stock transfer case, shifts great.
-front hubs/knuckles rebuilt(less than 500 miles) with kit from Marlin Crawler
-stock axles and gearing
-rear brake drums completely rebuilt with new drums, pads, and wheel cylinders.
-front stock disc brakes, work great!
Fuel
-new kyosan fuel pump
-new fuel filter
- new CCOT steel gas tank and fuel lines
Steering
-just finished rebuilding the steering gear box. It worked fine before but was leaking from the sector shaft seal. It now has all new seals and I removed one shim (of the three) to tighten up the steering. Also replaced the rag joint. These parts came from CruiserParts and are all either oem or Japanese parts
-all new tie rods (kit from Cruiser Outfitters)
-tracks down the road great, also had a front end alignment less than 500 miles ago
Suspension, wheels, tires
-stock leaf springs, still holding up great
-new stabilizer and shocks, stock height, from Napa
-stock wheels- media blasted, etch primed, and painted stock gray color / spare wheel is new oem
-tires- 4 31x10.5 bfg all terrains, less than 500 miles. The spare is also 31x10.5 but a different brand, still plenty of tread
Interior
-stock dash is in great condition but does have two small cracks
-new (oem replica) upholstery and door panels from Cruiser Corps
-seat frames media blasted, etch primed and painted black
-roll bar media blasted, etch primed, painted black
-original seat belts, work great
-new CCOT floor liner
- heater box refurbished (from aatlas1x metricTLC)
-new headliner from Cruiser Corps
-gauge cluster, ashtray, and glove box door painted acrylic enamel to match factory color
Body and misc
-this is not a ‘frame off’ restoration. I did not feel that it needed it. Technically I did lift the body off the frame to replace all the body mounts but I did not roll the frame out. The frame is solid. It did have some surface rust that I sanded/grinded off and then treated with POR15. I’ve also used SEM Rust Seal and Fluid Film for hard to reach areas like inside the frame, doors, and channels of the tub.
-many parts media blasted including the rear doors, hardtop sides, windshield frame, all hinges, and front bib. When I first purchased it I sanded down the entire vehicle and painted with a dupont epoxy.
-driver side quarter panel and rear sill have been replaced with a CCOT panels. I also cut out some rust in the rocker panels and replaced with new sheet metal.
-any bare metal was primed with either epoxy or self-etching primer and then followed up with a 2k urethane and/or sealer.
-new mustard yellow paint (original color). This is Ful-thane, a single stage urethane from dupont. My original plan was to paint it with the original style enamel used from the factory but after research decided on the more durable and longer lasting urethane based paint.
-all the glass is original, except the front windshield which is new
-stainless steel hardware for fenders, hood, front and rear doors. Just about every bolt I’ve touched has been either replaced with a new zinc coated one, stainless, or oem bolt. I also use antiseize religiously.
-seals- new front door seals(from CC) rear door seals(oem) hardtop seals (oem and SOR)
-new oem hardware for rear spare tire carrier
-new oem sidesteps. I know the original fj’s had these painted to match the vehicle but I like them in black and never got around to color matching them.
-new oem rear bumpers
-front bezel media blasted and painted
-new oem Toyota emblems- grill, fender, and quarter panel
-new oem side marker lights
-new hood latches (CCOT)
-all fluids have been replaced!
-new gas cap
-windshield rest blasted and painted to match body
-new windshield rest rubber pads
-new side vent gaskets
-new hood-to-fender rubber pads
-new wiper cover gasket
-all gauges and lights work
Overall impressions-
Rig looks and drives great. Lights, signals, horn, & gauges all work. Current NC registration and had no problem passing NC inspection (currently in WA). Paint is not perfect but looks amazing 20 ft away or 2 ft away. No rust bubbles in the paint. Paint did suffer a few rock chips/scratches when I shipped it cross country last summer but these are hardly noticeable.
The suspension, drivetrain, and underside is not as pretty and detailed as the body and interior, but is clean and rock solid. There are some places with light surface rust such as the original leaf springs and the axles. These have been treated with SEM Rust Seal which does not hide the rust but gives it kind of a glossy appearance. There is no rust in the body.
Few things that it still needs-
-hood to windshield latches for where the windshield folds down
-rear license plate lights
-interior light
Email or pm for more info
78mustard40@gmail.com
Also see https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/another-what’s-it-worth-’-thread-my-1978-mustard-yellow-fj40.796656/ for more info and pics.
Beautiful 1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 for sale $27,500.
Located in Bainbridge Is, WA.
Background
motor-
Original 2f motor. Odometer reads 20k; actual mileage unknown. The previous owner claimed it had been rebuilt but unfortunately had no documentation. I replaced the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal when I had the transmission out to replace the clutch. I’ve also replaced the valve cover gasket. It runs great so I’ve never had a reason to do anything else to it.
carburetor- Original carb I had rebuilt by Mark Algazy (marksoffroad.net) shortly after I purchased it.
-desmogged shortly after I purchased it. I kept all the smog equipment though, including the original exhaust manifold and smog pump. It now has a tri-y header from marks off-road along with new exhaust. Definitely feel like this freed up a couple ponies.
-new toyota oem water pump
-new heavy duty marine grade 1awg battery cables and grounds
-stock distributor, new plugs and wires. I have the parts to do the popular dented side cover and fj60 distributor upgrade but never got around to installing as the stock setup works great.
-new aisin brake master cylinder
-stock air cleaner media blasted, primed, painted
-new oem air filter
-new radiator and radiator hose kit from CCOT
-new thermostat
-new belt
Transmission/axles-
-the entire clutch system is new, less than 500 miles on it. New master cylinder and slave cylinder. New clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and pilot bearing. All Japanese parts. Also had the flywheel resurfaced and replaced the flywheel bolts with oem hardened flywheel bolts.
-original 4 speed transmission, shifts great.
-stock transfer case, shifts great.
-front hubs/knuckles rebuilt(less than 500 miles) with kit from Marlin Crawler
-stock axles and gearing
-rear brake drums completely rebuilt with new drums, pads, and wheel cylinders.
-front stock disc brakes, work great!
Fuel
-new kyosan fuel pump
-new fuel filter
- new CCOT steel gas tank and fuel lines
Steering
-just finished rebuilding the steering gear box. It worked fine before but was leaking from the sector shaft seal. It now has all new seals and I removed one shim (of the three) to tighten up the steering. Also replaced the rag joint. These parts came from CruiserParts and are all either oem or Japanese parts
-all new tie rods (kit from Cruiser Outfitters)
-tracks down the road great, also had a front end alignment less than 500 miles ago
Suspension, wheels, tires
-stock leaf springs, still holding up great
-new stabilizer and shocks, stock height, from Napa
-stock wheels- media blasted, etch primed, and painted stock gray color / spare wheel is new oem
-tires- 4 31x10.5 bfg all terrains, less than 500 miles. The spare is also 31x10.5 but a different brand, still plenty of tread
Interior
-stock dash is in great condition but does have two small cracks
-new (oem replica) upholstery and door panels from Cruiser Corps
-seat frames media blasted, etch primed and painted black
-roll bar media blasted, etch primed, painted black
-original seat belts, work great
-new CCOT floor liner
- heater box refurbished (from aatlas1x metricTLC)
-new headliner from Cruiser Corps
-gauge cluster, ashtray, and glove box door painted acrylic enamel to match factory color
Body and misc
-this is not a ‘frame off’ restoration. I did not feel that it needed it. Technically I did lift the body off the frame to replace all the body mounts but I did not roll the frame out. The frame is solid. It did have some surface rust that I sanded/grinded off and then treated with POR15. I’ve also used SEM Rust Seal and Fluid Film for hard to reach areas like inside the frame, doors, and channels of the tub.
-many parts media blasted including the rear doors, hardtop sides, windshield frame, all hinges, and front bib. When I first purchased it I sanded down the entire vehicle and painted with a dupont epoxy.
-driver side quarter panel and rear sill have been replaced with a CCOT panels. I also cut out some rust in the rocker panels and replaced with new sheet metal.
-any bare metal was primed with either epoxy or self-etching primer and then followed up with a 2k urethane and/or sealer.
-new mustard yellow paint (original color). This is Ful-thane, a single stage urethane from dupont. My original plan was to paint it with the original style enamel used from the factory but after research decided on the more durable and longer lasting urethane based paint.
-all the glass is original, except the front windshield which is new
-stainless steel hardware for fenders, hood, front and rear doors. Just about every bolt I’ve touched has been either replaced with a new zinc coated one, stainless, or oem bolt. I also use antiseize religiously.
-seals- new front door seals(from CC) rear door seals(oem) hardtop seals (oem and SOR)
-new oem hardware for rear spare tire carrier
-new oem sidesteps. I know the original fj’s had these painted to match the vehicle but I like them in black and never got around to color matching them.
-new oem rear bumpers
-front bezel media blasted and painted
-new oem Toyota emblems- grill, fender, and quarter panel
-new oem side marker lights
-new hood latches (CCOT)
-all fluids have been replaced!
-new gas cap
-windshield rest blasted and painted to match body
-new windshield rest rubber pads
-new side vent gaskets
-new hood-to-fender rubber pads
-new wiper cover gasket
-all gauges and lights work
Overall impressions-
Rig looks and drives great. Lights, signals, horn, & gauges all work. Current NC registration and had no problem passing NC inspection (currently in WA). Paint is not perfect but looks amazing 20 ft away or 2 ft away. No rust bubbles in the paint. Paint did suffer a few rock chips/scratches when I shipped it cross country last summer but these are hardly noticeable.
The suspension, drivetrain, and underside is not as pretty and detailed as the body and interior, but is clean and rock solid. There are some places with light surface rust such as the original leaf springs and the axles. These have been treated with SEM Rust Seal which does not hide the rust but gives it kind of a glossy appearance. There is no rust in the body.
Few things that it still needs-
-hood to windshield latches for where the windshield folds down
-rear license plate lights
-interior light
Email or pm for more info
78mustard40@gmail.com
Also see https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/another-what’s-it-worth-’-thread-my-1978-mustard-yellow-fj40.796656/ for more info and pics.
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