3.8 V6/T700 into FJ40?

3.8 V6/TH700R4 into FJ40?

Since viewing this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=101895&item=4546825767
I've been putting some serious thought into this conversion, however it's not very common with the V6. I want to go with the V6 and T700 because in Australia the motor and gearbox will come out of the same car and for only $800AUS.
Marks 4wd adapters (http://www.marks4wd.com/lc-40-55-60-70-gm-auto.htm) can help me out with fitting the T700R4 to the FJ40 but i'm not sure how to go about fitting the motor and if it will work? I want my FJ40 to be more of a daily driver, it will still go bush but nothing to insane. My aim is to have it cruise nicely at 100-110km/h.
I'm just after a couple of opinions, this is a relatively cheap engine/transmission swap with the benefits of a 0.7:1 overdrive and an EFI unleaded engine so I won't have to use more additives in the 2F.

Here are the specs: (see attached picture)

What are your thoughts?

I would get an overdrive or bigger tires on the truck and keep the cruiser motor and be done...

agreed.... that v6'll struggle with cruiser weight. their not the torquiest buggers...

just LPG your 2f and be done with it... don't believe all you read about valve stem failure due to no lead.... lead was removed from american petrols ages ago, and most these guys haven't had major problems with it...

see where your torque is made in the v6, see where the 2f torque is made? save the money you'd spend on getting it, the adaptors and the headaches of wiring in the computer etc, and the engineers certificuits. and live with the 2f... on gas they don't hurt too bad.

So you're saying that the 2F motor will run without the additives? Just run on unleaded?

I really appreciate your comments, no one else has given me a proper answer. Looks like i'll just repair the bodywork and clean up the 2F.

Currently it runs a new set of 31" which I don't intend on changing till they wear out.

Would fitting the T700 to the 2F be a good idea?

i would run it on premium unleaded to stop the pinging... they might not like the low octain in our crappy regular unleaded...

having said this, don't come after me if your valves suffer... yes lead is there to prevent valve seat problems, but we are talking a motor that is at least 25 years old... i think that something else will go before the valve seats will.. i mean ask these guys how long leaded petrol has been off the market in the USA, and no one in the US runs additives. alot of the 2f's on this board run unleaded and have few or no drama's

it's your call...

i've been running my 2f on lpg, with no upper cylinder lubricant (and lpg is notoriously "Dry") for 3 years... guy before me ran it for ages like that too...

the way i look at it, the v6 will cost you about 800, the converter for the auto-transfer case = more $$$ engineering certificuit = probably 300, then getting the ecu to run in the 40 is more time or $$$ and you'll end up underpowered in my opinion... not to mention the things like driveshaft length modifications, adapting cooling/ charging systems, potential oil pan clearance issues, and the like

so if you save that money, and use it to fix the 2f if any problems arise from using premium unleaded without additive your still ahead for years... convert the 2f to LPG and you still will have savings (plus savings from fuel...).... you can pick up a running 2f from a wrecker for under 1000 and that will drop straight in in worst case scenarios...

i don't know anything about an auto behind a 2f... personal prefference i say, there are kits to do it, i don't know what auto's though....

No lead in American gasoline since the late 70's.

My '74 was made for leaded. Has been run on unleaded for the last 20 years with no problems.

No one here even things about it anymore.


I would take a 5 spd tranny out of a later 40 or a 60 and swap that in to your 40. It is not a steep overdrive but should be enough. With this tranny and 31's you should have no trouble at all running 100 km/h down the road.