Camshaft removal/installation

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J

justindaley

Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Threads
46
Messages
145
Location
Cairns, Far North Queensland
Hey guys
Seem to remember seeing on a post somewhere that removing the camshaft and replacing it was difficult due to the close tolerance between the mesh of the cam and crank gears. Is this true? and if so what are the solutions?
I'm about to replace a leaking front plate gasket so these gears need to be pulled, and I'd like to preempt any problems.
Thanks - really appreciate the way you guys have opened my eyes in the past.
Justin
 
The cam gear will be a PITA to get off. Your better off to pull the side cover, lifters and cam. I doubt you will get the gear off with the cam installed.

Edit: Cam is a piece of cake to get out and in.
 
justindaley said:
Hey guys
Seem to remember seeing on a post somewhere that removing the camshaft and replacing it was difficult due to the close tolerance between the mesh of the cam and crank gears. Is this true? and if so what are the solutions?
I'm about to replace a leaking front plate gasket so these gears need to be pulled, and I'd like to preempt any problems.
Thanks - really appreciate the way you guys have opened my eyes in the past.
Justin
Click to expand...

I am lost. By "front plate gasket" are you referring to the timing cover gasket? If so you don't need to mess with the timing gears or the cam at all. You remove the cover and install a new gasket and replace. I would also install a new front crank seal while I was at it.
 
Easiest-


Pull the rocker shaft assembly, push rods and lifters, and pull the cam out with the gear on it...it is about .5 hour more work than screwing around trying to pull the gear from the cam with it in the bore....besides, the side cover gasket is probably leaking anyhow....


The crank drive gear does not need to be removed when replacing this gasket...

Oh, and there is a post in the 2F engine thread that can be found in the FAQ about changing the end plate screws from flatheads to torx....the part numbers are there also.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
John Smith said:
I am lost. By "front plate gasket" are you referring to the timing cover gasket? If so you don't need to mess with the timing gears or the cam at all. You remove the cover and install a new gasket and replace. I would also install a new front crank seal while I was at it.
Click to expand...



The end plate is between the timing cover and the block...there is a gasket that sometimes fails and looks like an oil pan gasket leak...but is not.


:beer:
 
Picture is from JimC in the BEST 2F thread...

(will be the same on an F engine)


(upside down on an engine stand) ;)


attachment.php
 
That's exactly the sort of info I was looking for.
I am changing the gasket behind the end plate, as it looks to be where the leak is coming from. I have an OE gasket as apparently they are supposed to be superior to aftermarket stuff. I never intended to separate the cam from the camgear, but must have misread a post about pulling and replacing the cam.
Poser - great tips, I'll get those torx fasteners today. I always work slowly and would rather take an extra .5 hour, safe in the knowledge that the job should be more straightforward.
All gaskets will be renewed along with the front cover oil seal.
Will there be any difficulty replacing the crank pulley, or is it just a case of lubricant and torqueing the nut? There was no locktab washer behind the crank nut on disassemby, and none listed in my local parts house - is one required?
I must say I have enjoyed working on this truck as everything is so big - past experience has been with British cars - minis, mgs, triumph and a lotus (which was very delicate by comparison) and Bikes - Hondas, Ducatis etc
The BFH has never had so much attention!

Justin
 
justindaley said:
Will there be any difficulty replacing the crank pulley, or is it just a case of lubricant and torqueing the nut? There was no locktab washer behind the crank nut on disassemby, and none listed in my local parts house - is one required?
Click to expand...

The nut is no problem, just torque it. I would get a locktab washer for it though. You might have to go to the dealer (or used). Remember on those cork gaskets that they will need to be retorqed periodically after assembly.
 
justindaley said:
is the front plate gasket supposed to be fitted dry?
Click to expand...

What does the manual say? I don't think it is required to put any goop on it. It prolly won't be any fun to take off again if you use gasket sealer on it.
 
justindaley said:
That's exactly the sort of info I was looking for.
I am changing the gasket behind the end plate, as it looks to be where the leak is coming from. I have an OE gasket as apparently they are supposed to be superior to aftermarket stuff. I never intended to separate the cam from the camgear, but must have misread a post about pulling and replacing the cam.
Poser - great tips, I'll get those torx fasteners today. I always work slowly and would rather take an extra .5 hour, safe in the knowledge that the job should be more straightforward.
All gaskets will be renewed along with the front cover oil seal.
Will there be any difficulty replacing the crank pulley, or is it just a case of lubricant and torqueing the nut? There was no locktab washer behind the crank nut on disassemby, and none listed in my local parts house - is one required?
I must say I have enjoyed working on this truck as everything is so big - past experience has been with British cars - minis, mgs, triumph and a lotus (which was very delicate by comparison) and Bikes - Hondas, Ducatis etc
The BFH has never had so much attention!

Justin
Click to expand...



As was posted, remove the distributor also. :)


The crank nut has a lock washer that is keyed to the front pulley and goes behind it and has metal tabs that are bent over it to keep the nut from backing off the crank....I am a fan of red locktite on this also....this is a Toyota piece...I will post the part number tomorrow...the torx fasteners for the end plate, that part number should have been in that 2F thread...


The front plate fasteners, along with the front cover fasteners all get blue locktite.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
They are a 3F/3FE piece....they cannot be disc. yet...I purchased a dozen back in March...


Cruiserdan?
 
Poser said:
The end plate is between the timing cover and the block...there is a gasket that sometimes fails and looks like an oil pan gasket leak...but is not.
:beer:
Click to expand...


Learn something new everyday. I had no idea there was a gasket between those two items. I have not been able to remove that plate from the block on my parts truck. Those "undercut flat head screws" as the FSM calls them don't want to budge. I am glad Toyota made them Torx on the later motors.
 
As you may have already been warned, make sure the brass oil squirter is not overtightened and bottomed out on the front of thre block, behind the plate. Also make sure that you put the various length bolts back into the correct holes. You can bottom out a long one by putting it in a short hole. Either of these mistakes can lead to a leaking plate.


Mark...
 
justindaley said:
My local toyota franchise said nope.
Any clues where I might get them from?
Click to expand...


There are 37 left in the country....when they are gone, they are gone.


I just ordered a couple more sets of three.



:beer:
 
just an fyi...

i got a set of three of the end plate screws last week from my dealer, so they're still available.

malphrus
 
I see in a few messages above it should be relatively straightforward to slide the camshaft out of the front of the engine, but I'm having trouble with this step. I have the side cover off exposing the pushrods (I think). In one of the posts above, it says to pull 'rocker shaft assembly, push rods and lifters'. In order to do this, do I need to take off the valve cover off the top? Once the valve cover is off, will the push rocker shaft and push rods slide out from above? How do you get the lifters out?

Can anyone give more detailed steps involved in what it takes to get the camshaft out?

Thanks!
 
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