Thanks to all for letting a lone Nissan play along! It was good to meet y'all and maybe I can make it out to another event sometime. You guys have a great club, keep up the good work!
To elaborate, the hardened pin is retained in the link with an internal snap ring that inserts into the bore on the bottom. You can connect it to any cable that has a proper thimble.
It's probably all gunked up or dried up around the clutch lever shaft itself. I had this happen on my M8000. There is a little screw that you can remove to pull the clutch handle out; remove that and wiggle/pull the clutch handle out. There is a rubber o-ring on that shaft. Grease liberally...
I have a Thetford Porta Potti 260. It's the smallest one they make so it doesn't take up a ton of space in the bed of my pickup. I like it because it separates top (clean water tank/pump) and bottom (black water tank) and the bottom unit has a swivel dump neck to dump into a toilet. For $75...
I have a refill adapter and have re-filled my small cylinders. They never run quite as long as they do when new and sometimes the valve does not seal correctly. I have to poke at it with a small screwdriver sometimes to get them to seal, losing a tiny bit of propane in the process. It works...
If the motor only has two posts at the cap end it is a permanent magnet motor and connecting jumper cables to a battery should make it turn if everything is working. If the motor has three posts and a ground lug it is series wound and you need one more jumper to make it work. Connect + battery...
I have run a set of jumper cables from my rear auxiliary battery up to my front battery to self jump, having a rotary switch to do this would be nice. I am not sure if that ACR is really necessary. I just installed a Sure Power dual-battery isolator in my rig and when connected properly it...
More likely all the incidental grounds caused really high voltage drops and they were probably replacing too many motors on warranty. A piece of cable and a couple lugs are a lot cheaper than entire motors. Will it work without a ground cable, sure. Will it work reliably every time? Not a...
There should be a ground screw hole in the bottom of the motor housing. Clean it off and land your negative cable there. I also recommend running a dedicated ground wire from that motor case ground to the solenoids so they have a good negative connection. It was intended that they ground...
Oh yes, the cheapo Amazon lights. I have two sets that I have not hooked up yet. At 18W each they draw 1.5A (at 12V) so that's 1500mA they need to sustain all the time, each hour is 1500mAh. I don't think a set of AAs will run very long at that current level, it seems like Alkaline batteries...
Exactly, if you lose line tension the thing cannot fall off. If you have to hook to a tree saver you use a screw pin shackle that is a completely closed system. It also protects the rope thimble from getting pinched/deformed in the fairlead if powered in too far.
I want a Factor55 Flatlink...
That is how I finally fixed all my electrical problems with my 8274. I chased one bad connection after another with that solenoid pack and finally gave up. So far, so good.
It looks like an older Runva winch. I am going to guess from your post above about having only F1 and F2 that it is a two-post permanent magnet motor. What that means is that all that is necessary to run the winch is battery voltage to be applied to the two terminals. One way is forward...
I just bought a full set for mine, it was hard to believe that Amazon had them in stock to fit my 37s! Heading up to KY and OH next month for a week of adventures and do not want to have ice or deep snow stop the fun.
Look for a used M8000 and swap out the motor for the 9.5XP motor. I bet for less than $800 you'd have it done. I swapped a new 9.5XP motor onto my M8274 and upgraded to a contactor and only have $1000 in it. The other day I think I saw some 3/8" SK-75 rope on Pirate for cheap so you could get...