Thanks @Indestructible 47 that was a good rig actually, good lean tune is absolutely mandatory and a cooling system that's absolutely in order before you start. Even with every possible precaution, the coolant temperature would always start to climb on a long gradient. The IDI design puts a lot...
Roger that, must have been another build I was thinking of that was using one of Noordeman's 'performance' grinds that allegedly offer a 30% power increase. (very very sceptical 😅)
I've seen a few 2H that seem 'crisper' than others with no particular reason evident.
A turbo FZ with a properly sized turbo is very nice to tow with, nice torque delivery. The only observation (I've never had an auto Turbo 1FZ) is that 1st gear in the H151 would be nicer shorter towing heavy with the gearing disadvantage of 35s, but I assume the auto, especially if regeared...
Transmission is H55f, mine has been behind a blown 3F-E since about 2007, doesn't make massive power, probably 40% over stock but makes 400+ nm to the tyres, on 35s, stock 4.11 gears. Don't load it up in 5th and you'll be fine.
I'm not aware of any upgrades for the H55, but there are 5th gear...
Sustained 750c is fine in a direct injection diesel engine. I ran my 1HDT to 900c a few times goosing around on the dyno, I wouldn't recommend making a regular habit of it but never any indication of engine distress.
The B ain't gonna like a turbo, let alone compounds at 20+ lbs of boost...sorry to be the party pooper but you'd be better off spending the money on a DI engine that can shed the heat and make decent power.
There's plenty of ECU/TCU options. I run a wolf in my 60, I wouldn't get one again but they were a good local option 15 years ago when it was being built.
If I was building it today it would get a Haltech and if an auto, a compushift to run that, although from doing some reading it's possible...
I'd suggest ordering all new studs, cone and spring washers and nuts for both sides, arming yourself with an FSM and assuming that everything that has been touched previously has been 'repaired' incorrectly.
That's a serious safety issue, be glad you caught it when you did.
Lastly, this is...
Without being rude, it would pay to find out as much as you can about the swap and what will and won't fit before making a start.
Yes, aftermarket TCUs are available. Some aftermarket ECUs will run the transmission as well, many won't.
Anything will fit with enough massaging...
No idea, but I expect it will be an easier battle to make an A442/343 fit than get a one-off bell housing or adapter plate made.
In regards to wiring, sensors etc, this will be required if you use an A440 or A442. Are you planning factory ECU/TCU or...
You'll need a bell housing, torque converter etc. to make an A440 work with a 1FZ, it would be most likely cheaper and definitely faster to put an A442/A343 behind the 1FZ
The 1HZ fuel lines are potentially too small - Toyota changeed to 12mm lines for the turbo diesels in about 11/92 to resolve a surging issue.
Also sounds like she needs the boost compensator adjusted, an FT will pull well below 2k rpm with a free-flowing exhaust and properly adjusted compensator.