Sounds normal to me. My 60's valve-train ticks like crazy until warm then quiets right down. One other possibility could be a broken piston which will get quieter when warm.
More details would help. Surge all the time or only when warm or cold? Steady throttle or under acceleration? Regardless a good starting point to a drivability issue is a tune-up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and timing. Check and replace as needed then start looking deeper. One other good...
I had a starter do this before in a Ford Taurus. Turned out to be worn brushes in the sarter motor. Would click but not turn in car. Bench test would click and turn. The brushes were just good enough to spin with no load, but not enough amps to turn engine over.
I would not advance your timing beyond the 7 deg BTDC. With a desmog your going to pick up some detonation and advancing the timing will only worsen this. Sounds like you may have a bad vacuum advance on the dizzy or hooked up a vacuum line wrong. When my advance went bad it would flat spot...
I retrofitted mine about 2 years ago. Used a kit from NAPA which contained new oil and new low pressure adapter to fill the system. Was simple to do and works pretty good. The air is actually colder than the old r-12, however after about 10 minutes of max A/C the system will ice up and turn...
There may not be a realationship, but just a coincidence. The siezing AC compressor would be easy to check by simply turning off the AC and see if it will idle. My guess would be a bad ground from the engine to frame. AC clutch is electric and fuel shutoff solenoid is electric both requiring...
You won't hurt a thing by putting it into 4 low with the hubs not engaged. I do it all the time when backing a trailer or anytime I want to go slow and not slip the clutch. I would recommend 4 low when pulling out of a boat ramp to save the clutch. It is better to leave the hubs disengaged...
Check the condition of your ground wires. You could have a corroded frame ground not letting enough power flow to turn over the engine but everything else will work fine. I had this problem in a vehicle before and would start sometimes and othertimes would just click like a dead battery.
Try doing a vaccum check. You can tell so much about the engine and condition of tune it's in. Check out this link: http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/vacuum.php
First of all make sure that the plugs you put in are the correct plug and gaped correctly. Next check you timing with a timing light. Timing that is way out of whack will cause a hard start. White smoke is coolant, blue smoke is oil, and black smoke is flooded or running rich. Do a vacuum...
I've towed a 3200 lb boat with my 60 with no problem. I also tow a 25 ft hard side camper with my wife's Explorer. From experience I can tell you it's not a problem of power or stopping, but wind and others on the road. If some bonehead cuts you off and you have to make an emergency maneuver...
Last time I ordered parts from CCOT they sent me a fuel filter for free. Don't think it was OEM but fit perfectly and so far has done it's job perfectly. Also got a calender with scantily dressed women posing by an FJ40 too boot.
One problem with desmogging is that you will develope detonation at times. Normally the EGR will mix exhaust gases with the incoming mixture and "cool" the mixture, but with the EGR unhooked it can't do this. It's not bad detonation, but definetly there. Only two ways to correct this is to...
First thing to do would be a change of all the fluids and lube it. Since you don't know how long they've been in there it's just better to be safe. Next a complete tune up and check the valve clearance. Sounds like a new exhaust may be in order or alot of bandages to temporarily fix it...