Perhaps one addition to previous post, double check then triple check that your distributor drive is 100% seated into your oil pump. This tiny step is super critical, and usually when a rebuild fails it is because of this.
Royal Purple is my go to break in oil, loaded with Zinc
perhaps the majority would disagree, but I think the above would be more than useful?
a boost and egt gauge would be the simplest "cat's meow" i could imagine
-Sean
correct head gaskets on engines with replacements?
I'm not saying that OP's engine overheated during his ownership, but an engine that has overheated and requires a new head gasket/deck and head resurfaced, is a ticking time bomb
De-Smog, exhaust, presuming your sticking with the 2 barrel- , carb linkage, new air filter, flywheel, etc..
F to 2F conversion = not a big deal
F to F.5 or another F = no brainer
If you care to reach out for any additional info just DM me, I’m always happy to chat, especially per past time...
in the event you might be considering an H55/Split Case with parking brake drum, it is nothing short of a "BandAide" pre rear axle assemblies with incorporated parking brakes.
if you are interested in a 2FE as a "non carbureted" replacement, your money would be best spent on an injection system for a 2F platform.
what exactly happened to your F engine? do you have any interest in keeping a carbureted vehicle? if yes, simplest fix would be to source a donor F (or...
have you bled the system?
it will take you all of 5 minutes and even if you are reintroducing air (which I don't think you are), I suspect you will have an immediate "ahah" moment
Agree 100%
For future threads this question should be answered.
Oil temp is a non issue, if you have a float then that would completely negate an oil pressure conflict between the 2. I’ve already made my conclusion, interested in hearing validation.
Lots of legitimate questions constantly...