Cracked wheel hub - repair options? (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Bloomer

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Threads
192
Messages
1,532
Location
Just past the middle of nowhere in South Texas
While getting new tires, I noticed the wheel hub on my M416 trailer is cracked.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1444593963.122514.jpg


Not sure when this occurred. I've owned the trailer maybe over a year now and have pulled it around 2500 miles. The roads around here are pretty bad (been told by folks who have spent time in Afghanistan that they're comparable to the worst roads over there.

Looking for options on repair/replacement.....

Is this something that can be welded up in place or is welding not a good repair method for the wheel hub?

Should it be removed before welding?

If replacing, would it be advisable to just upgrade to a new axle or just replace the OE hub?

Any recommendations on where to source?

Thanks
 
I don't think it is practical to try and repair that. Why does it look like there is rubbing on the edge? Do you have a problem that will translate onto the new part?
 
Thanks for noticing the rubbing and pointing out. Hadn't particularly tied the two together. No issue there since I have owned but recall the PO had an issue with an wheel adapter previously and lost a tire while driving. Perhaps the rubbing (and cracked hub) is associated with that event.

Thinking that purchase of a new axle with brakes might be a good option at this point. Also might go ahead and upgrade some suspension components while I'm at it. :)
 
Why not try finding a used one for now. No easy way to convert the bolt pattern on the these common to just replace the whole axle. Down side is most will have a complete axle and might not want to piece out. There are also military web sites to check. Since the brake is only a hand brake probably not a issue having the drum worn out like a vehicle brake.:meh:
 
not sure what these 3 layers are but whereas the crack in the foreground material looks like a stress crack, the divot in the brown layer looks like something else happened and a chunk fell/was broken off.
Not much to lose in trying to weld it at this point if you can do it yourself or cheaply. Just make sure you know whether it's cast iron or steel first (spark test maybe).
 
What's your thought on its road worthiness in this condition? Trying to figure out if I can pull it to a shop (and I live in the middle of nowhere) or if I'll need to disassemble here and take in.

Thanks again
 
I still don't know what I'm looking at here. What's that brown layer?

is there a brake drum or something like that under that outer flange?

You could drill the end of the cracks, that would stop them and would probably help a lot with towing it safely.

But -unless this is unlike all the (civilian) trailer hubs I've seen- it'd take probably all of 5 or 10 minutes to remove the hub and then you don't have to trailer it someplace. Not to mention that a welder will probably want to take it off anyway and charge you for the labor.

If you're thinking about welding, you may want to ask upfront what it'll cost cuz some of the welding places around here have some ungodly high minimum charge that will go a good way towards the cost of a new axle. YMMV, especially in the middle of nowhere country
 
Brown edge appears to be edge where PO taped off for painting, rather than disassemble individual parts to paint.

No e-brakes but does have a hand brake.

Don't think it's terribly difficult to remove, but haven't decided which route I'm going with it (repair/replace/new axle with brakes). Was asking about road worthiness primarily for switching out the axle (I'll likely have a shop do the work) and using it until I get around to addressing.
 
changing the axle yourself should also be very easy and fast if the diameter of the tube is the same.
 

Similar threads

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom