Fighting with my Stihl 026 (1 Viewer)

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Apr 10, 2008
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I am having no end of trouble with my Stihl 026. Here's a basic chronology of what's gone on so far.

I bought it about a year ago, used. It clearly had been around the block (and, weirdly, had the chain on backwards) but had 150psi compression, ran great, and once the chain was properly installed it cut wonderfully.

I didn't know how sensitive 2-stroke equipment was to gasohol and old mix, so instead of putting the old mix in my truck and making new, I used the old stuff. That was where the trouble started, which ended up with, wait for it, the engine eating itself (scratched piston and cylinder).

I cleaned out the jug, installed a new Meteor piston, replaced the oil seal on each side, replaced the fuel line and impulse line, replaced the membranes in the carb (not a full rebuild, though - local saw shop sold me this kinda minimal kit), and fired it up. It ran poorly and the engine was starting to eat itself again. Grr. Clearly my attempt at a pressure and vacuum test was not adequate. I figured the problem was most likely either my attempt at a partial carb rebuild or that I hadn't tightened the hose from the carb to the jug adequately.

So I cleaned up the piston and cylinder, and in doing so busted a ring. Grr. By this point my Hutzl stuff had arrived from China - I hate to order Chinese stuff but I figured if the engine was going to eat itself one more time, it had better be with a $30 p/c kit and not the expensive stuff. So I put on the Hutzl p/c (which used different rings from the Meteor), rebuilt the carb with a proper Stihl kit this time, and ... ran poorly. Shut it down before it could eat itself.

Put on a new Walbro WT-194, on the grounds that some people said some carbs just weren't 'right' even if rebuilt properly. At this point, it idles, but it revs really poorly and then dies. After dying, it willl take several tries to restart, during which it gets closer and closer to starting. To me it sounds like I'm not getting fuel to the engine. But the fuel line is brand new and is supposed to be original Stihl (came from the Stihl dealer).

I have a video of the saw running, attempting to rev, and stalling. It's on Youtube at (I would have uploaded it here, but it seems like the max size is 3mb and the file was 85mb)

Thanks in advance for any input!
 
Possible coil (I think they call it an ignition module)?:meh: Just had a round with a FS90 that had the same symptoms....

This is about when I toss in the towel and ask my favorite dealer to "make it right", sometimes the reward of being able diagnose and fix the problem gets trumped by (in my case), time and patience.;)
 
Paging D'animal......

Contact him. He knows everything Stihl.
 
Yeah, I'd seen a lot of wisdom D'Animal had shared on an previous Stihl thread and was hoping he'd chime in. In any event, I have to admit someone else pointed out to me that I had made a dumb mistake, namely that (while testing it w/o bar and chain installed, so I didn't think about it) I had left the chain brake on. It stops the clutch, so the engine bogs down whenever it revs to a point where the clutch kicks in.

Reset the chainbrake, fired it up, now it revs. I could just kick myself in the butt sometimes.
 
Glad you got it figured out.

Just an FYI, the rings that come on the meteor pistons are soft.

Thanks D'Animal!

Yeah, it seems like the grooves (wrong word?) on the Hutzl piston are bigger than the ones on the Meteor. So I ended up using the Hutzl rings, which felt very different from the Caber ones that the Meteor apparently comes with. I can't say they came with an especially good report, but they aren't giving me any trouble right now and the compression tested last night at 130+ psi. So at the moment, my plan is to leave the Hutzl setup alone until something breaks. When that does happen, I do have a pair of Caber replacements for on the Meteor piston (which I'd cleaned up with a Scotchbrite) and the original Mahle jug that came with the saw.

Oh, one other question. The Hutzl p/c came with a compression release, and I didn't feel like looking through my parts bins for an appropriately sized bolt to block off the hole, so I put it on. Should I just leave it there? Or pull it and block off the hole? I can't mount the top plastic cover if it's there, and I've heard worries about how long the compression release lasts (before letting air in, leading to problems with lubrication). It's an 026, so it's not like a compression release is exactly critical. But if it's not going to hurt anything to leave it there and run the saw without the cover, I'll leave it alone.
 
The cylinder cover is important. The deco valve (compression release) is not important.

Got it, I'll look for an appropriate size bolt in my bin. Just out of curiosity, what is the function of the cylinder cover? Is its main purpose to guide airflow, to keep dirt away from the cooling fins, or to prevent an ungloved hand from touching the hot cylinder? (Or all of the above?)
 

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