Two Questions If I May - 2F Engine (1 Viewer)

[love2fly]

Checked the torque again and the rear two were almost a 3/4 turn until seated to values. Deicide to pull manifold and replace the gasket as I have an extra and do a visual inspection. Was concerned about how much oil/fuel saturated into the center of the gasket if any to where it would dry and crack and end up leaking in time. Was right it was starting to saturate about a 1/4 in on the bottom of gasket. I am hoping that this breach in torque maybe the answer. Will give it a week more of driving and check the plugs.
Question: When did Toyota engines/carbs start to have the built-in gasket materials on the insulator block?
Thanks

 

[FJ40Jim]

Question: When did Toyota engines/carbs start to have the built-in gasket materials on the insulator block?

When the isulator changed to bakelite, in the late 1960's.

 

[love2fly]

Been busy with work shifts but finally took the 45 out for a 25 mile drive. Have not pulled the spark plugs as I want about 100 miles on the engine. But after my 25 +- a mile or two drive I could smell fuel while parked in the garage, opened the hood and sniffed around and it was permeating out of the air cleaner intake horn. looked at the base of the carburetor that was cleaned up and see seeping at the lower shafts starting again??????????????????
Truck runs good??
Anyone remember the old fuel pump check as in how much fuel should pump out into a jar while dry cranking the engine in 15 - 30 seconds?
I am starting to wonder if the fuel pump is over pumping (flooding).
Fuel tank is vented, no signs of fuel seeping at the pump. Maybe time for a new carb.
Humm

 

[FJ40Jim]

As an aviator, you should be familiar with the Waddington effect. It may be at play here.

 

[love2fly]

Wow now I have not heard that one for in a long time. You're saying that my preventive maintenance (overkill) could actually be doing more harm than good. ah, I don't think so.
In today's aviation things have changed any and all preventive maintenance daily (PMD) is a must. Same with the family car (if you have kids).

Thanks Jim

 

[ColonelMustardFJ40]

To the untrained eye it appears that you have a secondary shaft in the primary bore. Is that OK?

 

[love2fly]

If you mean is it too seeping at the shaft, yes. If you mean is it in the wrong bore, not sure would hope not, its an OZ carb non US.
Has two vacuum ports and the book shows one port for this year and model so I am sure it is not the original, probably a FJ60 carb.

Thanks ColonelMustardFJ40

 

[FJ40Jim]

The fuel pump is fine. It fills the bowl adequately w/ engine running.

Fuel seeping out the throttle shafts is normal. There is no seal on the shaft. Fuel is induced into the airflow above the shafts and some fuel plates out on the butterfly/shaft, which then wicks out the shaft via capillary tension, especially after engine shutdown allows manifold pressure to equalize.

Fuel stank comes out the aircleaner because the RFG is boiling out of the carb bowl after shutdown. A US spec emissions system would reduce this symptom, but not completely eliminate it.

Keep Cruisin'...

 

[love2fly]

Yeap the fuel pump is fine, puts the right amount out when cranked for 15 seconds. Had to test the fuel pump as when the engine was rebuilt I usually replace most components but over looked the fuel pump, good for a piece of mind. Fills the bowl just as it should. The shafts are warn after 30 or so years so that is to be expected with some seepage.
I checked the heat valve again on warm up seems to be function now. Decided to replace the SP with the NGK BPR4EYs instead of waiting for the 100 mile deal as I am working more shifts. Set them to 0.033 for a bit hotter spark. Ran a vacuum check again set mixture and reads just two needles into the Late Timing block on the gauge. Needle steady and timing is dead on.
Will say the old plugs were starting to blacken up just slightly so maybe all will balance out in time.
Still might get a new carburetor.
Thanks
Be safe in upcoming holidays.

 

[love2fly]

Okay tis time again for me to go nuts.
As said I would clean the S/P and go on some long drives which I did. Last night I did a re-check of the S/P and found them to be showing more to the rich side of things still. #2 plug was the worst of them all. Re-gapped to 39 (electronic ignition) US specs.
Okay the fun part is I stated the old gal up to make sure all runs well took it on a fast drive and came back and took a look under the hood and saw the carburetor sight glass had no visible view of fuel not even half way (running and on level ground). Turned it off let it set and the fuel stated to settle downward. Back to square one. The bowl is filling up and seeping out the lower shafts as before.
Today I pulled the horn to see the float situation and it is dead on the book settings. I checked the pump and it is working as it should. For the hell of it I pulled both secondary mains and found them not to be as the book describes meaning both are the same leanth when the book shows one short one long. "Anyone" - can this be the reason for the bowl to be filling up pasted the set float level?
The truck runs and drives fine but when running, I believe Jim C. stated (sorry if wrong) that's were one should see the half fuel level in the sight window. Any suggestions are more than welcome. I included some more pictures to help. This is a non US carb.
Also anyone know if there was a change in the manual on the color of the main jets. Mine are not brass and chrome they are both brass.
Thanks guys.

 

[love2fly]

more pictures and a few of the main jets.

Thanks again

 

[OGBeno]

As an aviator, you should be familiar with the Waddington effect. It may be at play here.

Nice reference Jim.

"Maintenance isn’t an inherently good thing (like exercise); it’s a necessary evil (like surgery). We have to do it from time to time, but we sure don’t want to do more than absolutely necessary to keep our aircraft safe and reliable. Doing more maintenance than necessary actually degrades safety and reliability."

.... A bit more......

"The key is to leave stuff alone whenever failure is acceptable, and to inspect like mad (but not replace prophylactically) when failure is not acceptable. We only repair or replace things when doing so is unavoidable (either because a non-critical component failed or because a critical component has been determined to be at the point of incipient failure)."

 

[ChaseTruck]

Nice reference Jim.

"Maintenance isn’t an inherently good thing (like exercise); it’s a necessary evil (like surgery). We have to do it from time to time, but we sure don’t want to do more than absolutely necessary to keep our aircraft safe and reliable. Doing more maintenance than necessary actually degrades safety and reliability."

.... A bit more......

"The key is to leave stuff alone whenever failure is acceptable, and to inspect like mad (but not replace prophylactically) when failure is not acceptable. We only repair or replace things when doing so is unavoidable (either because a non-critical component failed or because a critical component has been determined to be at the point of incipient failure)."

Post this to the 80's forum yet?

 

[OGBeno]

Post this to the 80's forum yet?

Good call Michael.

 

[love2fly]

Okay but the carb is not as it should be.

 

[love2fly]

Never say Never - Done.

Took the horn off and looked at the float setting again showed @ 6mm for float drop and 1.1mm as per Toyota 1980 manual said.
One Toyota manual for I believe a 1974 model shows a 7.5mm drop instead of the 6mm. Split the difference between the two adjustments put it together and spot on in the center of the bowl window while running @ idle. High speed, no starving of fuel. 30 degree angle (+-) clime no fuel starvation. Shut down shows dead center fuel line and no bleed down after 5 minutes.
In Aviation we do not settle for 75% or 100% in maintenance we expect 110% or more .

Thanks

 

[FJ40Jim]

The problem was not float adjustment. The problem was that fuel level was creeping up in the bowl, in spite of the float trying to shut off the fuel inlet. When this is happening intermittently, it's indicative of contamination at the needle/seat. Cleaning out the needle & seat should correct the problem, unless/until more FOD finds it's way to the needle & seat.

The jets might not be right, but they have nothing to do with the fuel level in the bowl. Do keep an eye on the sight glass and maintenance the heck out the needle & seat and fuel supply if the problem re-occurs.

 

[love2fly]

Re-occurred it did-but not as bad.
Jim big thanks for your information. I believe you are right.
Last night I drove the rig for around 60 miles and when I got home I checked it 15 minutes later after shutdown out of habit and the fuel had risen in the float bowl just at the top of the sight window from center. I would shake the rig to see fuel moment.
Good thing is it was not completely out of sight and seeping was not as bad as before. I found a posting were one of our Mud boy had almost the same situation.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/carb-problem-needle-valve-vs-float.210139/
I had used a Keyster rebuild kit K11-398A and was looking at the needle valve/seat that came with the kit when I had the horn off last and it has a very slight groove around the tip area. I do not have the old one so I can't compare to difference but I think I will order a different kit and give it a try. Truck drives fine, plenty of power and idles nice.
I added a photo of the needle valve in question with the slight groove.
Also working on the possibility's of residue engine heat after shutdown maybe playing a part in this. Heat control is working. I do have a heat wrap around the exhaust pipe from below the manifold down to the bottom are of the seat area. Has lots of heat making the floorboards very uncomfortable in the summer so I wrapped the pipe. I may remove the wrap also to see if it was retaining heat after shutdown were the heat would travel up the pipe to the underside of the manifold. But one thing at a time, so as you mentioned needle and seat, I am focusing on the them for now. Oh and the jets are what came with the kit.
Again thanks

 

[FJ40Jim]

There's your problem: metal needle. Replace w/ viton tipped needle from toyota dealer or a hygrade kit.

 

[love2fly]

Jim,
I too was thinking of just buying a needle kit from the dealer but they say its no longer available, needle kit and rebuild kit?
Any suggestions to ease the leg work? Its a 04211-61122 carb part number needle kit part number 21301-61050 (ROW type). As said the only kit I could find to match was the Keyeter K11-398A.
Just to validate that it s the needle I took the old gal out for a 20 minute drive and came back, remover the air cleaner cover, and watched the inners at work. After about 5 minutes the 1st main nozzle (venturis) started to gleam with wet fuel while the other side remained dry. looked as something squirted at one point. Drips were coming out of the little tiny brass tube on the side below. I guess this is call wicking. Top of the nozzle really got wet and with the flashlight could see the fuel atomize.
Its beer time Jim. Thanks for chiming it with you help.
Merry Christmas