Rebuild 74 FJ40 RHD from Down Under - 2F to 2H to 12HT - 40 series Axles with 80 series Coils (1 Viewer)

[watrob]

The front brake rubber hoses are missing the bracket and clip to hold the steel lines solid. Without these brackets and clips the steel lines will flex and with metal fatigue they will crack over a short time dumping the oil and losing front brakes.

The right hand side has one, I just have not done the left hand side yet, (circled area on below photo), under the metal joiner on the rubber brake line is a hole in the hat that the shock is bolted to, I have made a alloy bracket to hold this join.

 

[ozcrusier]

I would use steel as the alloy would be very thin and crack with any movement.

 

[watrob]

Using marinenised alloy, its heavier than normal alloy, its looks little like stainless steel at first glance?

 

[watrob]

The start of another 12HT rebuild, let the fun begin.

 

[ozcrusier]

Bob obviously money is not a problem with this build so I can't understand why you never went with a intercooler for the added 25 + HP and Torque. The extra power would cost very little with fuel consumption and help the truck in the soft sand.

 

[watrob]

Bob obviously money is not a problem with this build so I can't understand why you never went with a intercooler for the added 25 + HP and Torque. The extra power would cost very little with fuel consumption and help the truck in the soft sand.

This 40 will be over powered as it is, what with a 3" exhaust on a as new 12HT, don't how many kilo's I saved in going coil springs and also there's the fibreglass body sports tub. Being on the beach traction is always a problem, having locked diffs all round helps but with to much HP I just dig holes, I could do that with the 2H even.

The aim is, I need another 50hp to drag a 478kg jet-ski thru soft beach sand at a constant speed at high tide, the problem was the 2H could not cope with this much weight & locked diffs all round, also that the leaf springs were to rough when the beach was chopped up which meant I had to slow down to second gear which is to slow to drag the dead weight of the jet-ski, I need to hold 3rd gear and lower revs with a smoother ride.

I believe I will have around 150hp, the boost is up by around 5lbs and the IP fuel has been turned up a little, plus the 3"exhaust and I have just a touch over 92" wheel base, it will be interesting to see how it drives?

 

[watrob]

I bought a couple new horns, so it gives me time to clean up & rebuild the original oem's which I will used on the other build. At $9 odd each thought they were a good buy.

 

[watrob]

Well the truck arrived with a lift crane and 2 hours later the fibreglass body was on the new chassis. Will post photos tomorrow.

 

[watrob]

Body is on new chassis, re-installed the finished roll cage, connected brakes & clutch.

I am pretty happy with the overall height, a good 2" lift, there is probably another 200kgs plus of weight still to go back in, 110ltr fuel tank under front seats, bucket seats, battery cradle & battery, steering wheel & column plus shafts, air cleaner, twin horns, front guards & supports, bonnet, bib, bulbar with driving lights and final the rear bumperettes.

The body centred well as you can see the rear wheels are pretty close to centre of the rear wheel arch, the overall wheel base is 92.6"

 

[donniefj55]

Wow been following along for a while now and wow. Must be a great feeling it's looking good.

 

[watrob]

Here's some photos of how the tub & wheel base looked on the leaf spring chassis, the new coil chassis wheel base is around 2 & 1/2 inches longer.

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[watrob]

Have order 2 x 6 Cree Led Spot Lights, they are 75mm x 75mm square and will fit in the square holes of my ARB bulbar, which are also 75mm x 75mm.

 

[watrob]

Got a little bit more done over the weekend, bolted on and aligned the front guards & apron. Also did some wiring as the battery will now be on the left hand side and the air cleaner will be on the right.

Things left to do are, repaint the 110ltr fuel tank, I have removed the front seat frames and having them galvanised this week, also have to finish off the alloy battery cradle. Also changing the front lights to halogen and getting rid of the old sealed beams.

I will pull the apron & guards back off to repaint the internal side on them with a matt black paint, then re-attached the guards & apron along with bonnet and the ARB galvanised bulbar, extra driving lights and led flood lights in the base of the bulbar.

 

[watrob]

Mine just arrived by courier this morning, they fit neatly inside the opening in the ARB bulbar, I did not really want to drill into the bulbar since I have had it galvanised, epoxy etch primed and powder coated. They would be fine if I had of predrilled the bulbar before galvanising.

 

[watrob]

Here a few photo of the old chassis and the crane to remove the tub.

Here a few photo of the old chassis Next is tub crane truck

Old chassis roll back into garage.

 

[watrob]

This is the new chassis being pulled into position.

and tub bring fitted

 

[watrob]

Resting in garage after rill cage refitted.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

WOW .......

 

[watrob]

I dropped my two front sport seat brackets off at the galvanisers along with the steering dampener bracket, 24 hour turn around, ready in the morning for pickup.

Will strip down the guards, bib & bezel on Saturday and repaint the inner sections and refit. The battery tray is finished and I bought a battery isolation switch also to install.

The battery tray is alloy and supported by the radiator surround bracket and the other end by the shock tower.

Should have the long range fuel tank back in as I repainted it last week by Saturday afternoon, along with gal seat brackets & seats. Refit the bonnet, bleed the brakes & clutch.

On Sunday will re-attach the steering wheel, fit the battery cables, wire rear lights, attach ARB bulbar with driving lights. Re-attach steering wheel and install boost & pyro gauges.

Monday should be start & test I hope.

 

[chappohj47]

Can't wait for it to by running we will need a video if course