Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cjmoon
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Looking good!
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Your tensioner is in the wrong place. Looks like it could hit the fan pulley. This is how it's supposed to be setup with the 6BT accessories.
- Thread starter
- #124
That makes more sense. It gets more wrap around the ac compressor. It just comes in contact with the fan pulley unloaded. Was planning on double checking that at some point. It does fit but was worried about the wrap on the ac.
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Yessir. Swap the tensioner location and you should be good to go. I've put ~15,000 miles on that belt setup I pictured and there's no issue whatsoever.
Yes he is. He's got the same brackets I do. They came off of late 12v 6BTs.
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- #127
I figured out what I did. I used the stock tensioner location and bracket for the non a/c brackets that was on my 4bt originally. I bet my old belt will fit bypassing the AC. Kind of ironic that the belt fit just adding the compressor and belt. Bet t would have slipped though.
Thanks for the help
Yes stock dodge brackets. These came of a 98 12v. I believe the top water neck had some variation through the years. And bus applications had some mid mount ac locations
Thanks for the help
Yes stock dodge brackets. These came of a 98 12v. I believe the top water neck had some variation through the years. And bus applications had some mid mount ac locations
Beautiful engine. How hard do you think it'll be to service the AC way down there?
Makes me glad mine is up high.
Makes me glad mine is up high.
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
mounting it low would seem best for running an intercooler.
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- Thread starter
- #130
Not to worried about the ac they produced a lot if the dodge trucks this way.
Got some time to work on the turbo manifold. Trying to keep it high and toward the front.
First pic is first attempt and with a larger turbo than I plan on using just for spacing.
Second is the hx30 and the outlet dropped an inch. I have about an inch of clearance but want a little more. I think I can drop the flange another 1/2 inch or more but need to buy a tapped flange. Some how I ended up with 3 drilled t3 flanges meant to get all tapped they can always be drilled out.
Also have a line on an he221w but don't know if I want to go through the t25 flange hassle and be stuck with that as my only option.
Got some time to work on the turbo manifold. Trying to keep it high and toward the front.
First pic is first attempt and with a larger turbo than I plan on using just for spacing.
Second is the hx30 and the outlet dropped an inch. I have about an inch of clearance but want a little more. I think I can drop the flange another 1/2 inch or more but need to buy a tapped flange. Some how I ended up with 3 drilled t3 flanges meant to get all tapped they can always be drilled out.
Also have a line on an he221w but don't know if I want to go through the t25 flange hassle and be stuck with that as my only option.
If you go with the HE221 then you typically have an adapter to go from the manifold (T3) to the turbo. The adapter is bolt on / bolt off, so you wouldn't be stuck.
So the hood clears with the HX30 but not the H1C? That's close!
So the hood clears with the HX30 but not the H1C? That's close!
You can actually leave the tensioner there and run the belt in the following configuration:
Big crank pully
Past (under) tensioner
Around alternator
back and around water pump
back and around AC
big crank pully
Big crank pully
Past (under) tensioner
Around alternator
back and around water pump
back and around AC
big crank pully
- Thread starter
- #133
The first turbo is an HY35. So a touch bigger compressor than the original h1c. I also lowered my flange an inch. From when that picture was taken.
T3 to t25 then the intake and down tube differences also. Might order the adapter and flange and try to pick up the he221 ($250) and it's suppose to be new.
I'll look into that belt routing. I have the tensioner for the other set up so it's not a big deal. The are different based on the alignment dowel
T3 to t25 then the intake and down tube differences also. Might order the adapter and flange and try to pick up the he221 ($250) and it's suppose to be new.
I'll look into that belt routing. I have the tensioner for the other set up so it's not a big deal. The are different based on the alignment dowel
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
you can always get the hy35 with the 9cm hot housing so it spoils quicker. The 4bt I built I used an HE351cw turbo but had 215hp injectors, 191 dv's, bumped timing, 4k gov spring and a #100 fuel plate
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- Thread starter
- #135
Got the turbo where I needed it and just need to finish weld the manifold. Using the HY just for reference the hx30 will fit with lots of room to spare.
Finished removing the LSPV and extra brake lines and started taking the wiring loom apart
The loom is mess to take apart
Have found that most of the joints have some sort of epoxy hard sealant on them which takes some extra time to pull it apart carefully. Should have done it with the engine out. Would have been a little more ergonomic.
Finished removing the LSPV and extra brake lines and started taking the wiring loom apart
The loom is mess to take apart
Have found that most of the joints have some sort of epoxy hard sealant on them which takes some extra time to pull it apart carefully. Should have done it with the engine out. Would have been a little more ergonomic.
- Thread starter
- #136
Wow been a while just realized there was a new app out there tonight and hate down loading pics on to my computer to post or using standard internet sites on the phone. I'm a little behind the times.
Been slowly working on things as time permits. The wiring is spread out to get all the necessary sensors and wires worked out and others coiled up out of the way.
Finally settled on a cheap eBay universal intercooler after looking and 10-15 options. I think it fits well but not ideal as far as surface area.
All pressure lines are sorted out minus the a/c. But working on that now.
Plan on keeping the 3" exhaust in the frame rail also. It's tight but should work and keep tight bends out of the system
And since this is all worthless with out pics..... Enjoy
.
Been slowly working on things as time permits. The wiring is spread out to get all the necessary sensors and wires worked out and others coiled up out of the way.
Finally settled on a cheap eBay universal intercooler after looking and 10-15 options. I think it fits well but not ideal as far as surface area.
All pressure lines are sorted out minus the a/c. But working on that now.
Plan on keeping the 3" exhaust in the frame rail also. It's tight but should work and keep tight bends out of the system
And since this is all worthless with out pics..... Enjoy
Last edited:
LandBruiser69
It feels good to be lost in the right direction.
Yea. 200 HP in that baby will gain you 600ft/lbs of torque. Very easy to do. And still 100% reliable.
- Thread starter
- #138
Have all but one of the ac fitting figured out. And have a real good idea on the 4th. Planning on using a compression fitting the a back up is having a fitting welded on to the original tube that passes through the radiator bulkhead
Where did you buy those fittings? I need to rethink my at lines and love what you're doing.
Where did you get that adapter fitting for the firewall? I can find the 90* fitting just not that cool adapter.
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