Toyota 2LT engine main big end bearings (1 Viewer)

[AllTvRepairs]

Hi,

I am new here and this is my first post.

I own a 2lt engine fitted on an open boat converted to marine. Had been working fab for the last 12 yrs. (only 150hrs of use on the sea)

Due to water ingress from leaky exhaust manifold I decided to open up engine and major service. I need a set of main big end bearings and piston rings etc.

I would like to know if these OEM brands are reliable as originals. Mainly OEM piston rings made by Rikken vs GOETZE and MAIN/BIG END BEARINGS GLYCO VS TAIHO.

Gaskets KP vs FAI

Your feedback much appreciated.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hi,

I am new here and this is my first post.

I own a 2lt engine fitted on an open boat converted to marine. Had been working fab for the last 12 yrs. (only 150hrs of use on the sea)

Due to water ingress from leaky exhaust manifold I decided to open up engine and major service. I need a set of main big end bearings and piston rings etc.

I would like to know if these OEM brands are reliable as originals. Mainly OEM piston rings made by Rikken vs GOETZE and MAIN/BIG END BEARINGS GLYCO VS TAIHO.

Gaskets KP vs FAI

Your feedback much appreciated.

I replaced the big end bearings in my 2LTE. I used Taiho brand. Size STD R039A. They were readily available aftermarket and are very good quality. Same as what came out actually. Did my BEB...

I can't speak for piston rings. I think I'd recommend OEM though. If you can't find them, this guy can: CRUISER ADDICTION - TOYOTA OEM LANDCRUISER PARTS

Here is good reference thread for rebuilding a 2LTE. If yours is the early 2LT, the top end will be different, but the bottom end is basically the same AFAIK: Rebuilding A 2L-TE Engine - Toyota Surf LN130 - Hilux/4Runner/Surf Topics

Also the repair manuals are readily available for both the early and late 2LT. If you can't find them, I'll point you in the right direction.

 

[AllTvRepairs]

I replaced the big end bearings in my 2LTE. I used Taiho brand. Size STD R039A. They were readily available aftermarket and are very good quality. Same as what came out actually. Did my BEB...

I can't speak for piston rings. I think I'd recommend OEM though. If you can't find them, this guy can: CRUISER ADDICTION - TOYOTA OEM LANDCRUISER PARTS

Here is good reference thread for rebuilding a 2LTE. If yours is the early 2LT, the top end will be different, but the bottom end is basically the same AFAIK: Rebuilding A 2L-TE Engine - Toyota Surf LN130 - Hilux/4Runner/Surf Topics

Also the repair manuals are readily available for both the early and late 2LT. If you can't find them, I'll point you in the right direction.

Hi,

Thanks for your comments. The links provided are very useful for my needs. Have read also that Taiho is a reputable brand. And japanese brand Riken do piston rings for Honda so must be a valid choice too.

Can you guide me where can I post this query in this forum please. It is related to marine engines. I am to rebuild an exhaust manifold cooled with sea water. I was tempted to redesign using stainless instead of steel.

Regards,

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hi,

Thanks for your comments. The links provided are very useful for my needs. Have read also that Taiho is a reputable brand. And japanese brand Riken do piston rings for Honda so must be a valid choice too.

Can you guide me where can I post this query in this forum please. It is related to marine engines. I am to rebuild an exhaust manifold cooled with sea water. I was tempted to redesign using stainless instead of steel.

Regards,

You posted in the right spot. I don't think I've ever heard of a marine 2LT, so you probably won't get much info on the marine stuff here. Probably similar setup to other marine diesel motors though, so you could try a boat forum maybe?

 

[John in Utah]

Reviving this thread to see if anyone has any other tech info or experience doing BEB and/or main bearings on the L series engines. I've recently been seeing higher than average copper and lead in the oil of my 3L and it has me wanting to pull the pan to have a look at the BEBs and maybe even roll in new mains if it's advised?

There's plenty of reading on MUD about the 1HDT/1HZ crowd doing the big ends, but I'm not seeing much mention of the main bearings - are these typically left alone when doing the BEBs with the engine still in the truck? @GTSSportCoupe the thread you linked above doesn't seem to exist anymore, or is that just me? Also maybe not related but I had to replace the cam seal due to a pretty bad oil leak, could this indicate excess runout and maybe point to the cam bearings instead? The engine runs likes a top, but now that I've been doing oil analysis I can't tell if I'm hearing sounds or just paranoid. I've decided on pulling the pan and doing the BEBs as soon as the snow stops flying. I'd rather not dig into the timing cover since I was just there to do the timing belt 3000 km ago, but at least now I know how

What do you guys think about inspecting/replacing the mains? Should I just do the BEBs and keep sending oil in to the lab to see if that helps my copper & lead numbers? Or just go at it all at once? The engine has decent compression for having 400k on it, else I'd be inclined to pull apart the whole thing

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Reviving this thread to see if anyone has any other tech info or experience doing BEB and/or main bearings on the L series engines. I've recently been seeing higher than average copper and lead in the oil of my 3L and it has me wanting to pull the pan to have a look at the BEBs and maybe even roll in new mains if it's advised?

There's plenty of reading on MUD about the 1HDT/1HZ crowd doing the big ends, but I'm not seeing much mention of the main bearings - are these typically left alone when doing the BEBs with the engine still in the truck? @GTSSportCoupe the thread you linked above doesn't seem to exist anymore, or is that just me? Also maybe not related but I had to replace the cam seal due to a pretty bad oil leak, could this indicate excess runout and maybe point to the cam bearings instead? The engine runs likes a top, but now that I've been doing oil analysis I can't tell if I'm hearing sounds or just paranoid. I've decided on pulling the pan and doing the BEBs as soon as the snow stops flying. I'd rather not dig into the timing cover since I was just there to do the timing belt 3000 km ago, but at least now I know how

What do you guys think about inspecting/replacing the mains? Should I just do the BEBs and keep sending oil in to the lab to see if that helps my copper & lead numbers? Or just go at it all at once? The engine has decent compression for having 400k on it, else I'd be inclined to pull apart the whole thing

What oil viscosity are you running, and what temperatures are you starting in? I destroyed my 2LTE camshaft bearings a few years ago cold starting at -13F with 15W40 engine oil. They're furthest from the oil pump, and can be starved of oil at cold temps with the wrong oil. Since then I run 10W30 in winter and have a block heater now.

Anyhow, what I'm getting at, is it might be your cam bearings that are contributing material to your oil. That said, doing the BEB is pretty straight forward, so might be worth just doing them anyhow. One thing that'll take out BEB on the L series is someone replacing the head and using the wrong thickness head gasket (not accounting for piston protrusion). The pistons will hit the valves just a bit, which takes out the BEB.

I'm not sure what happened to my BEB thread, but I also posted pictures etc. here: New Member in Victoria, LJ78

Cheers,
Nick

 

[John in Utah]

What oil viscosity are you running, and what temperatures are you starting in? I destroyed my 2LTE camshaft bearings a few years ago cold starting at -13F with 15W40 engine oil. They're furthest from the oil pump, and can be starved of oil at cold temps with the wrong oil. Since then I run 10W30 in winter and have a block heater now.

Anyhow, what I'm getting at, is it might be your cam bearings that are contributing material to your oil. That said, doing the BEB is pretty straight forward, so might be worth just doing them anyhow. One thing that'll take out BEB on the L series is someone replacing the head and using the wrong thickness head gasket (not accounting for piston protrusion). The pistons will hit the valves just a bit, which takes out the BEB.

I'm not sure what happened to my BEB thread, but I also posted pictures etc. here: New Member in Victoria, LJ78

Cheers,
Nick

Been running T6 5w40 this winter, and haven’t had to start it in anything colder than 15F or so.

Decided ill do the BEBs for sure, but unless they’re in a bad shape I will leave the mains alone.

Not sure how one could diagnose condition of the cam bearings without pulling everything?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Been running T6 5w40 this winter, and haven’t had to start it in anything colder than 15F or so.

Decided ill do the BEBs for sure, but unless they’re in a bad shape I will leave the mains alone.

Not sure how one could diagnose condition of the cam bearings without pulling everything?

Doing the main bearings means pretty much pulling the motor and rebuilding it. Would be a heck of a job to do with engine in the vehicle.

Doing cam bearings is pretty easy if you've got the timing belt off. So you could replace them next time you do your timing belt....

How is your oil pressure?

 

[John in Utah]

Doing the main bearings means pretty much pulling the motor and rebuilding it. Would be a heck of a job to do with engine in the vehicle.

Doing cam bearings is pretty easy if you've got the timing belt off. So you could replace them next time you do your timing belt....

How is your oil pressure?

Mains can be rolled in with the crank in place, not much different than doing the big ends. Never done it on one of these engines though so I could be wrong.

I just had the timing belt off for the 400k service last month so unless I have a good reason I would do the cam bearing last of the bunch.

OEM gauge is at 3/4 most of the time. When I bought the truck last year I put an auxiliary mechanical gauge on and got good oil pressure readings. Ill be adding a in cab gauge before I do my next oil sample/take the pan off.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Mains can be rolled in with the crank in place, not much different than doing the big ends. Never done it on one of these engines though so I could be wrong.

I just had the timing belt off for the 400k service last month so unless I have a good reason I would do the cam bearing last of the bunch.

OEM gauge is at 3/4 most of the time. When I bought the truck last year I put an auxiliary mechanical gauge on and got good oil pressure readings. Ill be adding a in cab gauge before I do my next oil sample/take the pan off.

Interesting. I suppose they could be rolled into place. They have tabs on one end, but if you slid them the right way I guess it could work. Learn something every day!

I semi-rebuilt a 2LTE short block a couple years ago for my truck. I should really upload the pictures....

Edit: Uploaded the pictures. Might serve as an easy reference for people out there. Not the best quality... 2LTE semi-rebuild

 

[John in Utah]

Interesting. I suppose they could be rolled into place. They have tabs on one end, but if you slid them the right way I guess it could work. Learn something every day!

I semi-rebuilt a 2LTE short block a couple years ago for my truck. I should really upload the pictures....

Edit: Uploaded the pictures. Might serve as an easy reference for people out there. Not the best quality... 2LTE semi-rebuild

Very good documentation, nice work! This is valuable and hard to find info for anyone with an L motor. I’ll make sure to post up my own BEB experience when the time comes.

 

[John in Utah]

May not be the best place to put this but I posted in this thread originally so I’ll follow up here too. Pulled the BEBs from my 400k km 3L and they look pretty good:

New standard Toyota bearings (Mark 2) plastigauge’d .015-.020” on all four.

Getting ready to cross my fingers and fire it up. Anybody recommend a break in procedure for just the rod bearings? Cranking the starter to build oil pressure seems like a good idea. And I was going to do a quick oil change just to get the lube and any other contaminants out of the system.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The best way is to use an assembly grease on the moving parts which dissolves into the oil.

But I would just drive it normally giving it a mix of high medium and low rpms for a 1000klms or so.