Windows roll down/up, but only from their respective doors (1 Viewer)

[W Powell]

Drivers window still works from Drivers switch but other three windows stopped working from drives door. Other three windows do go down and up from their single switches on their respective doors. Intermittent as they worked yesterday but not today and not three days ago.

Anybody else have this happen?

 

[Dwight S]

Check the wires between the driver side door and the front lower kick panel. Especially in the rubber wiring conduit. There are several threads regarding random window issues.

 

[ibrahim83]

The only time i've seen this on Toyota/Lexus is when the battery is disconnected and the windows lose their memory. Go to each switch, hold it down all the way, let the window roll down and hold it for an additional 3 seconds, pull up on the switch fully until the window closes, and keep holding for an additional 3 seconds. Now try opening/closing from the master switch. it should work.

 

[W Powell]

I tried the method described above by ibrahim83 but to no avail. I will take the door panel off when I get a chance. Hard to believe all three switches stopped working at the same time. Does one wire link these switches to their respective doors?

 

[tommylb42]

Mine did the same thing, I had a broken wire in the rubber conduit between the door and the body. I would look there before exploring behind the plastic in the door.

 

[W Powell]

I did pull the boot back slightly and decided to save it for a day when I have more time. The boot is thick and well made. Would you suggest that I pull the grommet from the door side or the body (fender) side. It seems it will not allow much for exposing the wires with out smashing it together. Any advice?

 

[Dwight S]

I pulled it loose from the door. Tight quarters, but in my mind, easier to deal with than trying to reattach the body side. Check each wire closely. I had one completely broken and two more with damaged insulation. I fixed all three and retaped the entire bundle with electrical tape.

 

[W Powell]

Well unfortunately this did not bare any fruit. All of the wires seemed intact after I pulled the boot from the door. Could it be the switch, with the drivers window switch working and the other three switches stopping at the same time? I find this unlikely but am stumped. Could be a fuse right?

 

[randomquickness]

Well unfortunately this did not bare any fruit. All of the wires seemed intact after I pulled the boot from the door. Could it be the switch, with the drivers window switch working and the other three switches stopping at the same time? I find this unlikely but am stumped. Could be a fuse right?

I'm currently in the exact same boat. The shop diagnosed that my master switch was indeed the problem but I have not replaced it yet so couldn't tell ya if that fixes it. That switch costs a fortune too. Even the chinese ebay replacements are expensive lol.

 

[W Powell]

I found a little time this afternoon and took apart the switch with nothing obviously wrong. I think the switch is ok. Back to the wires...

I took off the door panel and inspected the wires between the boot (open door/body gap) they again seem fine. There are a lot of the wires covered in many feet of electrical tape. At this point I guess I will pay someone to diagnose the problem. I did get out my multimeter but the window switch connector did not make any sense as to its arrangement to test. Been a great truck for two years so I can't complain too much...

 

[W Powell]

I switched out the drivers window switches this morning with a buddy who has a LC. Nada. Must be the wires. I guess I will have to remove all of the electrical tape and coverings to investigate where the wires are cut.

Thanks for the replies all

 

[randomquickness]

keep us updated as eventually I need to fix mine.

 

[W Powell]

Well my indie and I are both stumped. We went though the harness and there are a few nicks on the insulation of wires within the door bridge (boot) but wires are intact.

Someone smarter then us, is there something else I am missing? Switch is ok, wires appear to be ok....

 

[Julian Stead]

You don't mention what year your truck is, It sounds like a multiplex issue, as in the master switch communicates with the other switches via the multiplex system. They are hard wired to there own window regulators so that's why they work of there own individual switch. Not sure when multiplex was introduce but it was somewhere between 2003/2004 I think.

 

[W Powell]

2000 lx, Buddies 2001 LX master switch also did not work with this truck

 

[Julian Stead]

I would say you need to get a wiring diagram first, I don't think the 2000 model is multiplexed but I might be wrong.

 

[Julian Stead]

I just seen the diagram, the only thing that looks as though it could give you your issues are the IC1 connector or the switch itself.

 

[W Powell]

The switch I am most certain is ok since I tested an alternate switch known to work (buddies LC 100).

IC1 connector - I did disconnect as I have the kick panel exposed. Should I try cleaning it or something? I am no Maestro regarding electrical and the wiring diagram is a little above my head.

 

[Julian Stead]

Sorry I gave you some duff info, just checked the diagram again and the wiring must be good as the windows work of their own individual switch's, it uses the same wires for both functions, individual and master. The difference is where they get there supply, I would check your feeds and grounds to the master switch. You can do all the tests needed at the master switch, I will do a test procedure for you if you get stuck, just abit busy to go through it at the moment.

 

[W Powell]

Thanks Julian, Local shops here as so busy they cannot get to it till the end of next week. Annoying having the car torn apart for so long but more over I like empowering myself to be self reliant. I have a multimeter and if you have a look at the attached photo this is my master switch with its respective wires. If you (or someone else) can give me a pointer I would appreciate it.