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#1 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Oil pan arch seal project
I tackled re-sealing the famous arch seal this weekend. This project is a little involved but fairly straight forward. While I had the engine raised, I took the opportunity to replace the motor mounts. I'm an ameteur so I'm sure there're more efficient ways to do this! I'd say this to be
job.It went something like this: - wash the underside of your vehicle thoroughly at a car was. You'll thank yourself later! - park on top of 4x4 or 6x6 wood or a set of ramps. Just make sure that you can still reach everything w/o tiring yourself - wear safety glasses to prevent oil & crud going into your eye - drain engine oil - remove the oil filter (facilitates access to motor mounts) - remove hood (mark everything!) - remove the radiator cooling fan from the water pump and push it aside - raise the engine as much as possible. An overhead hoist stays out of your work area the best. - remove the two nuts per motor mount x 2 -remove two connectors (one is oil low level, the other one is for a sensor pickup) - remove the front sway bar completely. You can keep it in there but just ain't worth aggravation or head bonking! - remove the lowest (smaller) oil pan. The longer you let the oil drain, the less mess for later! - remove LOTS of bolts and four nuts from the higher oil pan. Make careful note of what bolts go where. I used a old shipping box to place the bolts as they came out of the engine. There're several lengths/sizes/grades of bolts. - make sure to remove the four bolts that are INSIDE the large oil pan. - work the FIPG loose by working the larger oil pan. This will take some elbow grease and maybe some heat from a propate/butane torch. Resist the urge to use a chiesel/screwdriver/pry bar to separate. - work the large oil pan out while paying close attention to the oil pickup screen. - Place the large oil pan such that the oil pickup screen isn't distrubed. - clean off the old sealant on both surfaces. - Apply new sealant or FIPG and wait for it to become less tacky. If it's too tacky, then you'll smear as you install the large oil pan. - Reverse the above steps for installation - Clean off old FIPG from the smaller oil pan. There're grooves in this oil pan that needs to be cleaned out well before the new FIPG is applied. -Install the smaller oil pan -Add oil, filter, tighten motor mounts, install fan, hood, etc. Gotchas to avoid: -Protect the oil pickup screen -while cleaning old FIPG, be sure to pick up bits and pieces from the large oil pan as you're working. I used a shop vac. -keep the dust level down while everything exposed. Don't sweep the shop floor! -have assitance for hood removal. It's not heavy but can be unwieldy! -I try not to use air tools to remove the bolts, don't want a broken bolt head here! -have LOTS of clean rags. This is not the place to be reusing old, dusty rags. -pay close attention to the torque values of the various bolts. Don't confuse IN-LBS with FT-LBS numbers in the FSM. Pics to follow. Let me know if anything seems unclear to you! Ali __________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA Last edited by alia176; 03-10-06 at 08:16 AM. |
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#2 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Close up views of the leaky areas of the pan.
Notice how I'm resting the foreward end of the oil pan on 2x4s to protect the oil pickup screen. __________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA |
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#3 |
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The quick brown fox .....
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Somewhere in the foothills...
Posts: 10,566
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Thanks Ali, nice write-up.
Did you have a motor mount break? -B- __________________ 97 FZJ80 - Wing Nut MAF, locked, 315 Toyos, 4.88s, Slee 4", George's sliders, Slee bumpers, M12000, OBA, Outback drawers + other stuff. Transformation in progress... Sometimes you find yourself in the middle of nowhere. And sometimes in the middle of nowhere, you find yourself. |
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#4 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Quote:
No, the mounts are intact However, Dan and I noticed that the engine seems to rotate more than normal upon starting and power braking. I'm also chasing another issue and that is the movement of my Transmission shift lever under load. The tranny *maybe* is moving fore/aft. Upon visual inspection, both mounts seem fine but I bet the driver side is softer. At least I hope so anyway This was a classic *while I'm in there...* move! Ali __________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA |
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#5 |
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Unleash the Beast
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Nice, Im going to do exact same thing within 3 weeks from now.When you mention replace the engine mounts.How many are they? Also do you have part # for it? Got more pics?
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#6 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Quote:
I don't have any pics of the motor mount project but it went somethig like this: - have an assistant - remove motor mount nuts (four total). - remove radiator fan and push it aside - loosen four bolts per motor motor mount brackets x 2. On the driver side, removal of the oil filter will improve access to the bolts - raise engine - start on the passenger side. One person moves the engine from side to side while another person is playing with the motor mount from underneath. This alone took about an hour or so! Install new motor mount. - driver side - remove the tranny oil dipstick bracket (push it aside )so that you can back out one of the four bolts out of the block. - move the engine to the driver side while the assistant works the motor mount out. Install new motor mount. -tighten the motor mount to engine bracket nuts (four total) -Torque everything to spec.
__________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA Last edited by alia176; 03-08-06 at 10:48 PM. |
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#7 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Denver
Posts: 78
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GAACK.
I might just buy a lower miles cruiser ![]() Nice writeup, thanks for taking the time to document it for the rest of us. __________________ 1995 LC, Factory Locked, CDL, 7 pin, BFG 33's |
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#8 |
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Unleash the Beast
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Well i just made quick phone call to my guys (local Toyota parts) now according to what they said it would be better if i also replace the trans mounts? so 3 totals?
- 2 engine mounts and the part # 12361-17011 -$ not cheap. - 1 trans mounts also the part # 12371-66030 -$ more than you thought. (P.S)- sorry i dont quote/ post the parts price here. So is that right? |
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#9 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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I don't know if the p/n s are right but you do need three total for the vehicle.
__________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA |
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#10 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Quote:
This is a routine PM that needs to be done just like the head gasket r/r. Unless you can stand to see your 80 leak oil for the rest of her life! Ali __________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA |
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#11 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 4,057
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WOW, that looks like a lot of work!
I am surely glad that the RotellaT Syn 5w40 somehow sealed up my arch pan leak, "knock on fake wood dash "
__________________ kurt 94 FZJ80 306,000 mi For Sale $4000 96 CAMRY 87 SUPRA FOR SALE $5500 |
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#12 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 2,489
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What's that hoist setup.. is that steel beam in your garage?
__________________ 1997 LX-450, 109k, Stocker. Shaa laa lalalala live for todayyy... and don't worry bout tomorrow heeeeyy hey eyyy. |
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#13 |
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Front Locker Opportunist
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Nice work Ali. So you raised the Engine to replace the motor mounts or that is required to change the seal as well? How does the Arch seal look like? Is it a RTV type material or a gasket? Also is it required to take out the #2/small oil pan to do this job?
Thanks |
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#14 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Quote:
__________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA |
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#15 | |
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The quick brown fox .....
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Somewhere in the foothills...
Posts: 10,566
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Quote:
C-Dan had to remove the upper oil pan before he could remove the front timing chain cover and therefore had to do all of the steps in Ali's post; plus some. -B- __________________ 97 FZJ80 - Wing Nut MAF, locked, 315 Toyos, 4.88s, Slee 4", George's sliders, Slee bumpers, M12000, OBA, Outback drawers + other stuff. Transformation in progress... Sometimes you find yourself in the middle of nowhere. And sometimes in the middle of nowhere, you find yourself. |
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#16 | ||||
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 2,489
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![]() Rookie2 __________________ 1997 LX-450, 109k, Stocker. Shaa laa lalalala live for todayyy... and don't worry bout tomorrow heeeeyy hey eyyy. |
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#17 |
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Front Locker Opportunist
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Thank you Rookie2. So that's what FIPG stands for
. I wanted to see what this FIPG looks like is.Thanks |
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#18 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 2,489
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Quote:
![]() Rookie2 __________________ 1997 LX-450, 109k, Stocker. Shaa laa lalalala live for todayyy... and don't worry bout tomorrow heeeeyy hey eyyy. |
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#19 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 151
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alia176,
Great write-up on a job I have been putting off for some time. My driveway is starting to look pretty bad so I plan to do this soon. I have been thinking this whole project over and have a question. Would it be feasible to just drop the front axle to remove the pan instead of unbolting the motor mounts? I plan on installing a lift in the near future and this would be a perfect way to kill two birds with one stone. __________________ Brad 91 FJ80 AKA- Landsnoozer George's front and rear dome lights Slee headlight harness and aux. harness Mot's fog lights 285/75/16 BFG AT |
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#20 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 2,489
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Quote:
First off: the 20 plus nicely bulletized items listed above don't do this job justice. It's a PITA. If you've got a "seep" with little to no drip accumulating on the driveway, you're going to be kicking yourself in butt for messing with this once your asses and elbows deep into it. Second: There's no guarentees it's the pan arch, although percentages have shown it to be the most common out of it vs. rear main seal. I found it really hard to tell by doing the mirror investigation. Now to answer your question: Everybody that's done this (including C-Dan) has had to raise the motor some to get the pan out. When I did mine, I put the frame up on 3 tons jacks on a very high setting, and dropped the axle down onto 3 ton jacks on the lowest setting, then removed the DS sway bar bracket, and that was enough to get it to clear (this took me about 6 hours to find the right combination). I did not need to remove the fan and fan clutch, although it's probably not a bad idea. Loosening the fan shroud, and jacking the motor about a 1" to 1 1/2" is enough (mine started lifting the whole front end at this point, I'm assuming the bell housing was engaging the body so there is a limit to the amount you can lift the motor). If you've using a standard engine hoist, there's no need to remove the hood. ![]() Rookie2 __________________ 1997 LX-450, 109k, Stocker. Shaa laa lalalala live for todayyy... and don't worry bout tomorrow heeeeyy hey eyyy. |
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#21 |
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Corn Eater
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Shouldn't you be holding a baby or something cleaner than a dirty old oil pan?
You need a cleaner hobby dude. __________________ Eric P. 1993 Landcruiser, 190K miles. Lifted, Locked, Slidered, Slee'd, Snork'd, Winched, bobbed. Daily driver. ROTW Tall Corn Cruisers- El Presidente. |
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#22 | |
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California Expatriate
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Z.O.W.I.E. Headquarters
Posts: 1,776
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Quote:
__________________ '97 LandCruiser (Slee bits with OME418 and SOF4RH springs; Slee step sliders; African Outback full length roof rack; ARB front bumper, Hella 4000s; Kaymar rear bumper, tire carrier, jerry can carrier; BFG AT 315/75/16 on OEM steelies) '04 WRX STi (stock) |
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#23 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Sorry, I was unavailable yesterday for your questions! This baby thing sure is time consuming
On to answer some questions that may not have been answered: Rookie2 >What's that hoist setup.. is that steel beam in your garage? Yes, that's an I beam in my garage. Mighty helpful for doing this type of work! Darwood > From my understanding (both from what others have said and after visual inspection) the problem is that the bar that braces the panhard mount is in the way which is why the engine needs to tilted up. This bar is welded to the frame and as such isn't going anywhere.. I know others have chimed in on this particular point but here's a picture detailing the problem child, aka the BAR! This *&^(^% bar doesn't move with the front suspension. Simply raising the engine as far as it'll go is enough to give you enough clearance to work the oil pan #1 (large oil pan) out. You DON'T have to drop the front suspension if you don't want to. Also, this is dependent on your lift/tire size. > Would it be feasible to just drop the front axle to remove the pan instead of unbolting the motor mounts? I plan on installing a lift in the near future and this would be a perfect way to kill two birds with one stone. As others have stated, no it's not that easy! However, having a 3" lift wtih 35" tires did give me some wiggle room under the vehicle. Still, I placed both front tires on a stack of 4x4 and 2x4 pieces of wood to allow more room to maneuver myself under there. Depending on your lift and tires, you may opt to drive up on a set of ramps before starting the tear down process. If I did that, I would have to reach very high to access the engine and that makes for a tired upper body. Riad >Is it a RTV type material or a gasket? check out the picture! As they say, it's worth a thousand words. Doc >Shouldn't you be holding a baby or something cleaner than a dirty old oil pan? Can't wait for warmer weather to arrive so that the Pack and Play can be in the garage and I don't have to keep running into the house to take care of the baby! I'll have a complete toxic diaper disposal and changing station in there! Cheers, Ali __________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA |
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#24 |
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Front Locker Opportunist
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Thanks Ali. I got it. I wonder if my local dealer has this FIPG. I guess I have to call Dan if they don't.
EDIT: Just called the dealer and they have it. Man I guess I got lucky this time. They usually don't have %#&*. I guess I'm gonna pick it up tonight and start thinking about dping this next weekend. |
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#25 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Riad,
PM me if you have any issues/problems with this project. Plan on a long day! You'll need an inch-lb torque wrench for the smaller 8mm bolts. My old FIPG didn't want to release so I used a ratcheting strap to put constant tension on the oil pan while I worked it loose. Good luck. Ali __________________ TLCA # 15941 KE5LED Currently working PA |
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#26 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 2,489
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Quote:
![]() Rookie2 __________________ 1997 LX-450, 109k, Stocker. Shaa laa lalalala live for todayyy... and don't worry bout tomorrow heeeeyy hey eyyy. |
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