Out of options for cold AC -- I'm spent.

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Pskhaat

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I'm so frustrated I'm thinking about selling my FZJ80. The AC is just bloody obnoxiously hot. You'd never know there was anything wrong living somewhere cool, but down here in Phoenix you might as well just open the windows.

Steps taken:

  1. Had system checked by independent shop. Said everything was fine, I didn't believe them, so:
  2. Checked and refilled by Dealership. Dealership said everything was fine and checked out OK. I thought they were on crack, so
  3. Installed auxiliary push fan,
  4. Cleaned evaporator,
  5. Changed heater core valve,
  6. Went to a well-recommended custom shop hoping they could spot something. They refilled, pressure checked, vacuum checked and said it was fine.
  7. Drained my new blue clutch fluid and refilled ~43ml of Toyota 10kcst.
What in the world do people think is "fine?" It's often warmer inside the cab than out. Granted the uber-rare green color of mine doesn't help, but I have a 2200 RTT so my roof doesn't even get hit by direct sun.

Every one of these steps has yielded ZERO noticable results, okay it might be 98F instead of 99F in the cab now. It would take an hour on the highway to get this thing near cool. In 115F weather and this is the DD the kids are sweating profusely in the back, the wife is pissed and I'm flat out of options.

I've had no known heating issues (HG PM'd few years back with new "old" radiator), no off-idle pinging, no performance problems, drives the same in the heat as it does in 55F in the winter: the truck is damn-near perfect in every aspect except the AC.

What else can be done?
 
Hi Mike, yes they do, every fan speed as well as a very good linear response to the heater valve motor and the AC button asserts the AC compressor as expected. Are you thinking a control system problem?
 
There are no grimlins,there is an answer.Whats a therm. reading at the center vents? Feel high and low pressure hoses under hood is one cold and one hot? Mike
 
I limit my disappointments by having low expectations. As much as I like my 80, I don't expect a 12-yo vehicle to work like a new one when it comes to creature comforts. Things like AC, power windows, power seats, etc. have become a PITA for me in any older vehicle I have owned.

I'm in Michigan so having a marginal AC system isn't a problem. If I lived in the south I probably wouldn't mess with an 80. I would probably switch to a 100-series. Of course I'm in the 80 now after moving from a 40 to a 62 and then to the 80......
 
My 80 blows 40 degrees,its been over 100 in Plano,Texas. All my power options work,the manual is pretty good helping me keep it that way.260,000 miles.You can do it too. Mike
 
Then your a.c. men are ?able at best.I hope you didnt pay these techs!
 
Just a shot in the dark, but is the heater valve working correctly? Is it really off while you run the a/c ?

Did your a/c work correctly last year at this time in what one would consider roughly the same conditions ?

What are folks basing their "It's OK" on ? What data is leading them to believe everything is working correctly?

I'm in North Dallas (must be a neighor of Michael Hanson) and my a/c blows cold in 100 temps, even at traffic lights. It's not freezing me out at those Outside Air Temps (OATs), but it's plenty comfortable in the truck. At 90 degree OAT, it's plenty cold at max recirc a/c setting. I don't even have the JDM fan yet and I haven't mod'ed my blue-hub fan clutch either.

Something still sounds to be wrong with your rig.

Keep the Cruiser Faith,

R.
 
I agree with super90, check the heater valve motor. The techs who are working on your 80 say everything is fine, they're just checking the A/C, right?

What if the heater valve motor doesn't actually work?
 
Then your a.c. men are ?able at best.I hope you didnt pay these techs!

Maybe everyone's got a case of valley fever here? I have had 3 techs, Toyota dealership inclusive and expected, tell me that there's nothing more that can be done and that is to be expected out of a 13 yo vehicle.

I don't buy that line for a second, sorry.

I'm just curious what could I be missing?


Just a shot in the dark, but is the heater valve working correctly? Is it really off while you run the a/c ?

Thought about that too and even replaced it. I guess I could completely block off the heater core all together

Did your a/c work correctly last year at this time in what one would consider roughly the same conditions ?

Nope, been horrible for at least 6 years, but just this year the 80 became the DD again and thus is now taking priority.

What data is leading them to believe everything is working correctly?

  • No leakage,
  • Proper low/high pressure spread,
  • Vent temps at cold start.


Something still sounds to be wrong with your rig.

YES, but pray WHAT?
 
  • No leakage,
  • Proper low/high pressure spread,
  • Vent temps at cold start.


Ok, I'm not an a/c guy, but, could you provide the low/high pressure spread data and the vent temps you are seeing for those folks that are a/c "experts" ?

What are the vent temps while stationary when the OAT is 100 degrees for example? (I don't know that this is the best data point, but something like this will help)

The more specific data gathered and presented the more likely folks are to be able to analyze this and provide a solution.

R.
 
I was talking to JerseyCruiser at Coal Miner CLassic last weekend and he asked how my AC was working. He pointed out that with my AC/Heater turned off, warm air was blowing out the vents. He said there is a valve behind the stereo unit that controls the heater air flow. His had come loose and allowed hot air to mix with the AC and not allow it to operate very efficiently. When you say you replaced the heater valve I am thinking the one in the engine compartment correct? You might also check out the valve he referenced behind the stereo on the HVAC unit. Just a thought.
 
Good call Kenny. I replaced a stereo last year for a friend and knocked the same valve assembly, had to rip the stereo out and fix it.
 
I agree with super and kenny. Now if I could just get my 62 to idle,working on it right now so I feel your pain. Mike
 
Sorry I don't have any pics or additional info. I have not gone in and started to do this repair. My AC is acting up also but more on the squekey side of things. Cools great but starts to whine after awhile. Fixed the Idler pulley and put on a new belt that worked for about 500 miles, but problem is starting again, so I feel your pain! :bang:
 
Pskhaat,

First off, what year 80 do you have unless I missed it above??

Second, I noted with interest that the techs say all is well on your carefully worded "Vent temps at startup". Huh?? By that I assume they're saying "Sorry mister, we did everything right because your a/c works well for the first 90 seconds and that's all you paid for. We have no idea why the vent temps go to 85 degrees after 3 minutes of operation but good luck with that."

If that's the case then your a/c guys should NOT be telling you that all is well. Something is very clearly wrong with a system that functions briefly and then quits working. Am I reading this right and are you accepting these "experts" that this state of affairs is OK?

There are a few internal valves in the systems (dunno which you have) that can shut down the system for pressure or temp issues and it sounds like these need to be checked. My bro in law's 335,000 mile 93 blows ice cubes and he's neglected about every aspect of it since buying it new.

DougM
 

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