Advantages of solid collar vs crush sleeve. (1 Viewer)

[MikePL]

So I am in trouble. My truck is torn into pieces because I've finally decided to get rid of the 'wooooo' noise in my front diff. Everything is already taken apart. I still don't know how to set up gears so more questions will follow, but for now there's one...

My neighbor has a lathe and he can make solid collar for me. Is it better than a crush sleeve? Why or why not?

How long should it be for a front non-locked differential?

 

[landtank]

Besides having the solid spacer you will need a set of shims. It's adjusting the thickness and number of shims that allows you to set the bearing preload.

 

[MikePL]

Thanks, I am aware of the shims. I will have to get them from Yoyota. But I'm sceptical about the crush sleeve. I don't see any advantages apart from providing constant pressure for longer as the bearings wear. But on the other hand I hear opinions that people use solid collars to strengthen their diffs...

 

[Skrewball]

one of the only advantages is not accidentally over tightening the pinion nut and crushing too far only to have to back it off to get the correct preload.

if you take your time and know what you are doing a crush sleeve is just fine(toyota has been using them for many years)

you can get crush sleeve eliminators. i think Trail Gear sells them.

 

[MikePL]

The problem is that I have my truck in pieces and have no crush sleeve. So my only option right now is to ask my neighbor to machine a collar for me, but I don't know what the length should be.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

The problem is that I have my truck in pieces and have no crush sleeve. So my only option right now is to ask my neighbor to machine a collar for me, but I don't know what the length should be.

Whoa-Is there a differential shop in Poland? This is not a DIY project. This is an easy no-brainer thing here in the USA, but in Poland it may difficult. Our local diff guy makes the spacers on the lathe when he sets up the gears and charges $30 per diff to do it. It does make for a less trouble prone diff, but as stated, most of the time a crush sleeve is fine.

If I were you, in Poland, I'd use a crush sleeve.

 

[Tools R Us]

A solid spacer makes the setup slightly stronger, mostly for driveshaft/flange to ground contact/impact. With the high pinion on the '80, it's not that big of a deal. They also allow the flange to be removed (to change the seal, etc) without changing the bearing preload.

To make one, the best starting dimension is the length of the removed crush sleeve. If you have a lathe handy, shims aren't necessary, make it slightly long, assemble, measure preload, disassemble, cut a bit off, repeat until the target preload is reached. This actually makes for the strongest setup possible, no worries of shims splitting/coming out.

Doing gears isn't really that technical, more like time consuming to get it right and knowing what to look for. Zuk's site is a good place to study, he has a few '80 jobs posted, but good info can be had from reading the mini gear installs;

Toyota Gear Installs

 

[MikePL]

Cruiserdrew,
there are diff shops over here but they happen to be really far from my place and I don't know them so I don't trust them. Another thins is the possibility to learn something. When I just give the diff to someone there's nothing to learn, but when I do it myself it might be useful learning for me. Another thing is cash. I was told $500 for the diff rebuild labor, so I prefer to do it myself.

Tools,
I think I will use a solid spacer. I will try to make it slightly longer than the old crush sleeve. I only wonder what does the solid spacer give me...

Look at the drawing below. The bearings (green) sit against the races (blue). The races are in the housing. If I pull the bearings together with the nut, I get a clamping force (arrow) which creates preload. So what's the crush sleeve (or solid collar) in between those bearings for?

I hate asking stupid questions but I am about do start working on the diff at 8:00CET so there's not much time left, and I would like to be well prepared.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Cruiserdrew,
there are diff shops over here but they happen to be really far from my place and I don't know them so I don't trust them. Another thins is the possibility to learn something. When I just give the diff to someone there's nothing to learn, but when I do it myself it might be useful learning for me. Another thing is cash. I was told $500 for the diff rebuild labor, so I prefer to do it myself.

Tools,
I think I will use a solid spacer. I will try to make it slightly longer than the old crush sleeve. I only wonder what does the solid spacer give me...

Look at the drawing below. The bearings (green) sit against the races (blue). The races are in the housing. If I pull the bearings together with the nut, I get a clamping force (arrow) which creates preload. So what's the crush sleeve (or solid collar) in between those bearings for?

I hate asking stupid questions but I am about do start working on the diff at 8:00CET so there's not much time left, and I would like to be well prepared.

It looks like you have the idea. I don't do my own diffs because we have a great local shop who kind of specializes in toyota differentials.

Good luck, there are some decent instructions on how to do this on the site.

It's one of those things that is so important to get exactly right, that I do the grunt work of pulling out the parts, and let the guy who has done thousands of these do the critical part.

 

[landtank]

I did my first set of diffs a couple of months ago. It wasn't all that hard but having a press goes a long way during the setup. Just start with what the factory had for shims and work from there.

 

[alia176]

Look at the drawing below. The bearings (green) sit against the races (blue). The races are in the housing. If I pull the bearings together with the nut, I get a clamping force (arrow) which creates preload. So what's the crush sleeve (or solid collar) in between those bearings for?

I think the answer is that the crush sleeve is applying a constant tension on the two bearings.

If you peruse Zuk's site, you'll notice that he speaks highly on achieving the proper CBPL (carrier bearing pre-load). Since you're learning all of this, might as well get the CBPL concept down pat!

Good luck.

 

[MikePL]

Yes, I am aware of CBPL. The pinion forces the carrier on one of the sides so I know that I have to prevent this by setting CBPL with a 3-foot bar