well after months of checking ,searching and testing i finally figured out that my abs pump was causing the poor braking . i had read several threads on here about poor braking and how bad rubber lines or air in the system was often the cause well i bleed the lines numerous times with power bleeders and manually even bleed the proportioning valve adjusted the arm for proportioning valve on the axle and even removed it and zip tied it to it's full open position none of this made any differance . i checked and adjusted the brake pedal free play and reserve distance adjusted the brake pedal push rod distance . i even went so far as to hook up pressure gauges to the calipers thats when i found out my caliper pressures were half of what they should be the front was at 500 psi spec is 1100 psi the rear was at 250 -300 psi spec was 800-900 psi which pointed to either a faulty booster or a possible internal leak in the abs pump .after retesting the booster to elimate it for sure a factory sst to run the abs pump was hooked up and when i ran the tests in the repair manual i had a hard pedal whenever the abs motor was run and after finding a used abs motor on mud and installing it bleeding the brakes and checking for leaks i now have firm confident feeling brakes .hope this helps some you out
fixed my low spongy brake pedal
- Thread starter 4LLC
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Hmm, used ABS pump. Anyone know what a new one costs?
No brake pressure on my 97 as well. Wonder why the ABS light does not reflect a problem. I checked with the local dealer and his price is around $600. BTW the correct name is Anti-Lock Brake Actuator/Pump assembly.
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Wondering how you went about getting a pressure gauge for reading the line pressure. Did you end up paying someone to do the testing? If so, how much did it cost? My LSPV is frozen and needs replacing so I have been trying to figure out how I was going to adjust the new one. Like most people here, I want to do the work myself, but this gauge seems to be a one time use tool.
Any way to by-pass it? My ABS is disconnected anyway...
I just got done with replacing my front calipers for uneven pad wear. I noticed a squishing sound when I press the pedal for the first 1" or so once I begin to feel some resistance. With my daughter in the truck the noise is coming from the MC from what i can tell. Anyone able to confirm that this is not normal? At the age of the truck I'm not worried about the cost of replacing the MC but would like to know I'm on the right track.
this ABS thing makes TOTAL sense to me... my ABS light has been on for a while even after replacing the harness and all 4 sensors. i think this is the ticket. what was the effort to replace this part - the Anti-Lock Brake Actuator/Pump assembly that is. i just did the MC and properly adjusted my LSPV trying to chase my soft crappy ass pedal...
landtank, when i bench bled my master cyl. it squished but that is because there was so much fluid moving through it.
landtank, when i bench bled my master cyl. it squished but that is because there was so much fluid moving through it.
I ended up ordering a MC from Napa. The front calipers did help with stopping but I figure it's the last common piece and I'll move on from there.
you replaced the calipers and pads? i want to do the pads too...
yes, the pads I offered you last time you were up.
What about just bypassing the ABS?
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- #16
i don't know if theres anyway to bypass the abs without running new brake lines because you have two lines going into it and three coming out as for replacing the part didn't take more than 15minutes to swap parts but it seems like it took forever to bleed the system
the bleeding is what is going to kill me i think. i guess i need to go to get a bunch of fluid and set aside 1 hour for the wife to "pump em up honey.... now hold em!" k, do it again..." over and over and over again.
one just came in from motive... how much pressure do i build up in the pump bottle?
