[Safado]

make sure to orient the diode in the same manner as Rick did or you'll get differing results. Follow the stripe. >|

[Waggoner5]

The diode can be a 4001 available at any Radio Shack. There part number will be different, but ask for the diodes and then look yourself for the one that has 4001 written on it.

[bruiser]

Can anyoone post the relevant portion of the wiring or ahve circuit details to share with the group?

[landtank]

you have the relevent details

[bruiser]

What i'm really after is the circuit diagram of whats on the PCB - just to see how the whole thing really works - just my curious nature you understand.

[mrsalty]

Gentlemen,
I took my switch assembly off 94 FZJ80 yesterday and cleaned the contacts. I was ready to do the diode mod, and I am a little confused about the location on the 94 circuit board. I have no 'empty' spaces on the component side of my PCB (sounded as if some did). Am I to simply match the location of the diode (picture) in the original post? Or am I missing a piece of information, or just really confused.

TIA
Side note: My contacts were very black, and several required scraping material off the metal. This however made really no difference in my window speed. I guess I will need to clean the tracks on all four windows.

94' FZJ80 133K 2.5 OME 285/75 DD

[landtank]

1st, how did you find this post? Someone asked a few days ago and I couldn't find it for anything.

2nd, I had an assembly to destroy so I could easily see the component side of the board. You'll just have to solder the diode in as I have per view of the back of the board. That is if they are the same, I think they are but not 100%.

[mrsalty]

Landtank,
I did a search on it.............not trying to be a smart a@%. I have had problems finding things with the search function before. I cannot remember the exact words I used to find it.
I just wanted to make sure, of the location. I had no vacant silkscreen on the component side of the PCB. Just trying to make sure I don't have to do something twice..............or end up replacing something.
I had gone to R.Shack, and all they had for diodes was a 12V with like 20mA load. I talked to a friend, and came up w/ a 4007 diode. I believe the main difference between the 4001-4007 is the current capacity. Hopefully if anything smokes, it would be the diode itself.
Anyway, I will give it a shot. Thanks again for the info. this site is great.

[Beowulf]

Rick,

Advanced Search, Author=Landtank, Keyword=diode, 80-Section (if you remember location of thread) and select the "posts" radio button (restricts to just your posts regardless of size of the thread)

-B-

[landtank]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Rick,

Advanced Search, Author=Landtank, Keyword=diode, 80-Section (if you remember location of thread) and select the "posts" radio button (restricts to just your posts regardless of size of the thread)

-B-

Thanks -B-, but my search was close to that "post" thing. Have to give it a try.

[loquito]

Originally Posted by landtank

1st, how did you find this post? Someone asked a few days ago and I couldn't find it for anything.

2nd, I had an assembly to destroy so I could easily see the component side of the board. You'll just have to solder the diode in as I have per view of the back of the board. That is if they are the same, I think they are but not 100%.

Hi Landtank
It was me who asked about the Diode, I did a search also with no luck.
I was happy to see it had come back up
Steven

[mrsalty]

Anybody done this successfully on their 94? I put in a 4007 diode in the only vacant spot I could find, and matching Landtanks' photo. Stiil no auto up. Everything works fine, but no auto up. Oh, I did trim the tabs on the back of the switch, appears to have 2 distinct positions. Not really the end of the world, but it is nice to finish a project with complete success.

Chris

94' FZJ80 133K 2.5 OME 285/75 DD

[boydmick]

I just got around to doing this. Way easy mod!

10 minutes total time and thirty five cents total cost.

I can't believe I waited.

Thank you IH8MUD

[landtank]

your welcome

[elmariachi]

Just to clarify (because my Radio Shack is staffed with idiots that can't find anything except batteries and iPod gift cards), the diode for this mod is available at Radio Shack and is their part # 276-1101 (pcakage of two for .59.) This is diode #IN4001 that Gary referenced earlier in this thread, but it doesn't look quite like the diode that Rick used (a slight bit larger.) Anyway, I found that if you use something like a dental pick, you can actually perforate the PCB in the two existing holes, which are filled with solder. Look on the back of the PCB for the outline of the diode and you'll see which holes. I then pre-bent the diode legs and managed to work it in from the backside. I soldered the tips, hooked it up and it works like a charm. Thanks Rick!

[landtank]

What timing, I'm just getting a new to me 96 Camry on the road and was thinking how I need to do this to the car.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by landtank

What timing, I'm just getting a new to me 96 Camry on the road and was thinking how I need to do this to the car.

What's cool is how quick it is. Having this thread, you can pop that switch out, disassemble it, make the mod and have it back together in 10-15 minutes. I like those type of mods.

[gbell210]

Thanks Rick, I finally got around to doing this to my '94 after cleaning all my window switch contacts.
Here are comparison pics for a '94, and I used the 1N4001 from Radioshack
After and then Before:

[dfmorse]

Bruiser;

The schematic is on page 98 in the EWD189U for the 1994 FZJ80.
I haven't done the mod yet, but am guessing that the schematic is the same for the 80 series.

...

[Beowulf]

Thanks Rick and thanks to gbell210 for reminding me about this mod.

I did it this afternoon; not in 15 minutes but at least it's done, it works, and the contacts are cleaned. Didn't fix my slow/stalling window but the contacts had to be cleaned to eliminate that as a cause for the problem.



-B-

[landtank]

Glad to see people still getting some mileage out of this one.

[GreatLakesWaterjet]

Completed this mod in about 15 minutes. Had a little problem. When the window went all the way up, it would not cut off. It would bounce up and down like the regulator gear was chewed up. Took the window motor and gear out and sure enough the gear was missing 4 teeth close to the top! So to fix this, I made new teeth with my welder and ground them down to match the others. Re-installed everything and the auto-up mod works perfect! I'm telling this little story so people will know that the window gear can be repaired instead of replacing it. Not hard at all. Thanks Landtank for the mod.

[wearsabrowncoat]

Easy mod that I made difficult. The only thing helpful that I have to add is that in step #1 I did not have to remove the switch to trim the tabs. The cutting wheel on my dremel tool had plenty of room to operate if I held down the switch while I cut the tabs off.

Step #2 was a different story. I took too much apart and became intimately familiar with the tiny spring in the window lock switch. If you have to take any screws out you are wrong. You can get to everything you need by prying up on the whole switch assembly. Then by unplugging the wiring harness and finally by prying off the clear plastic cover on the bottom of the assembly.

When I got it all back together I told my wife to come try it out. She said, "What's different? I thought it always had auto up".

[Ruadhrigh]

This mod is soo easy!




I used the diodes from Radio Shack, thanks to Elmariachi for the part#. And many thanks to Landtank. Brilliant!

This was easier than the pin 7 mod, which looked more like a socket to me
Sorry Dan please curse me, but not the truck!

[rhyary]

What I realized after 60 minutes of trying to put it together is that the square cap comes off. That means the switch can be assembled into the white switch assembly and the black switches can be put on top of it from the top. When I took it apart, I tried to reassembled from the bottom which I could not get the small spring to stay on.
Advise to the next guy, put the switches facing you, take square “Window lock” off, it pops off, and lift gently the black part, switches part off.
Once you know this, to assemble and disassemble the switches for cleaning take 2 minutes.

[Moses John]

I've been a looker and member for almost a year, now. I am constantly amazed at how clever, resourceful, knowledgable and smart members of this forum are. And I appreciate it all. Here's yet another great modification as provided by landtank. Wow. Very cool. And it looks like something within my skill level! Thanks again!

Oh, and I just noticed the original post date of the mod. I don't think I would have found this if it hadn't been posted on the fromt page. Thanks to whomever found it.

[Kenso]

I finally got off my ass and did this mod today after seeing the thread bumped up. Couldn't have been easier thanks to the info here. Also cleaned/sanded the switch contacts which made a pretty big improvement to the speed of the windows. This forum is the best.

[DTAYLOR]

bump

[Jeremiaheaster]

Originally Posted by Safado

Correct me if I'm wrong here...but isn't the Child-Head thing only a problem with the toggle type window switches? The ones you could actually kneel on in order to get the window to go up. Our cruisers don't have these types of switches...you have to pull the switch up in order for the window to come up. Are these types of switches not standard on all cruisers? If so, what's the worry?

Safado, have a couple kids and you'll understand Mine always seem to figure out how to work something wrong or get into trouble. I can just see my boy hitting the auto up switch while his sisters head is out the window and not knowing how to stop it. I won't do this mod for their safety.

[rlabair]

Will this mod also work on a 96 LX450?