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02-04-07, 01:58 AM
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 #1 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Parking brake?
Had a '97 LX450 at the shop, very clean truck, 83K on the clock...
Parking brake was not working properly...
Anyone that lives in the rust belt knows that the paking brake on a Toyota needs to be used frequently to stay functional...or it will rust up.
The only thread that I found out here about the parking brake was about the wasted/rusted to hell steel cam lever and aluminum pivot block being frozen solid, and how to free them up.
Many times, replacement is the only option, as was with this truck.
In the following pictures, I hope to share my idea of what has worked at keeping the parking brake functional for years of service.
In order to remove the rotor to get to the parking brake assembly, the caliper and pad mounting bracket must be removed. These can be set aside, or, I just tucked them up by the coil spring.
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02-04-07, 02:04 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Next, the rotor needs to be seperated from the wheel bearing hub. This can be done by using the two 8mmx1.25x30 bolts threaded into the holes in the rotor assembly and forcing the rotor off the hub. Sometimes the rotor can be a pain, but most times it will pop free with little effort, and then can be set aside.
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02-04-07, 02:18 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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So with the rotor removed, you can see the parking brake shoes... these shoes still had life in them, so the project was replacing the levers and mounting blocks, as they were rusted up solid and would not move.
Here are pictures of the rusty cam arm and non-reuseable link that needed to be cut off with a small rotory tool in order to get the bad brake pieces off the backing plate..
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02-04-07, 02:20 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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I cut the cam arm with the rotory cuttoff tool as far as I could, and then snapped it off the rest of the way with the Vise-Grips..
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02-04-07, 02:27 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Packrat Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 187
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Thank You, this is the motivation I needed to finally get mine done before I get to that stage. Have never had the rears apart (even having had 2 80's), so the pics and how-to helps.
Mine is not frozen up yet, but after my front knuckle service, I need to do my rear bearings, brakes etc. 
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74 fj40: LONG term project, 35" BFG's, 2.5 rancho lift, 2" body lift, 465, 350, SR, 8274-50
75 fj40: SO, TBI 350, 465, ARB's, 8274, saginaw PS, 4 wheel discs, 35" Boggers
78 fj40: 350, turbo 350, NP205, truck rear, more rust than mouse crap- barely!
93 fzj80: lift, BFG 35's, ARB's X 3, M12000, homemade rear bumber, Metal-Tech sliders, CDL, and tunes
96 fzj80: 285 AT's, CDL, factory lockers, Hers
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02-04-07, 02:31 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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So with the old junk out of the way, we can focus on installing the new pieces....
The cam pivot block is made from aluminum and the cam pivot pin and cam arm are made from steel. We all know how well those two play together in the rust belt...  The sealing boot needs to be installed on the arm, and then the arm, pivot pin and pivot block get coated in anti-size...
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02-04-07, 02:36 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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A healthy coating of anti-sieze has proved to work well at keeping these pieces functioning properly over the years....
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02-04-07, 02:41 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Installing the new pieces to the backing plate...
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02-04-07, 02:46 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Make sure that when installing your new cam lever boot, that it gets seated in the groove that is formed by the backing plate and pivot block...
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02-04-07, 02:47 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 5,657
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FAQ material
seeing that makes me want to preemptively lube mine. it will eventually happen to us just 30 years down the line.
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1988 FJ62 on 33s
1996 LX450 on 33s
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02-04-07, 02:52 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Next,
You noticed that I had to cut the cam arm to get the assembly out of the backing plate...well the cable link to the shoes was not going to come apart...and needed to be replaced.
If you live in the rust belt, be sure to order this cable, pin and retainer for both sides, as they will likely not be reuseable...
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02-04-07, 02:55 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Installing the new cable, pin and retainer.....and installing it onto the parking brake shoe lever...
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02-04-07, 03:04 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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After attaching the cable link to the parking brake shoe arm, it is just a matter of putting the shoe retainers and springs back together....installing your new parking brake cam arm return springs and attaching your cable to the arm.
You then can put the brake pad retaining bracket back on and the caliper.
As stated earlier, I am a fan of anti-sieze, so that gets used here on the bracket bolts and the caliper bolts...
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02-04-07, 03:05 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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After installing the rotor, I coated the brake pad bracket retaining bolt and caliper pin assemblies with anti-sieze...
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02-04-07, 03:14 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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After everything is back together, you now can adjust the parking brake shoes. The adjuster is on the lower section of the parking brake assembly. This also gets a little anti-sieze on it when things are apart.
There is a little rubber plug in the rotor that needs to be removed in order to get to the adjuster. You will need some form of long, flat screwdriver to get into the adjuster. I install two lug nuts, 180 degrees off from one another, to keep the rotor secured properly to the hub when adjusting the parking brake shoes. I adjust then so that there is a bit more than a light drag on them, and call it good.
Remember to put the little rubber plug back in when you are done.
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02-04-07, 03:18 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Going to do oil sampling while it was here...
Front diff oil does not appear to be as 'fresh' as the transfer case and rear diff Ryan...I would have a talk with your lube boys next time you see them...
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02-04-07, 05:54 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Avon Lake, Ohio
Posts: 341
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How true! Both of my trucks have had the parking brake treatment. Very common here in Ohio. Nice job with the write up and pics. Grade A for you 
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95 FZJ 80, Locked, 226k+, Original Stocked & HG, George's Map and Dome, PHH, Mobile 1, Slee Wire Harness, J.Deere Lights, 100 Series Pads, upgraded Stereo w/ XM and lots of Dynamat. Lost to the boys.
2000 100 series with 160k. Mobile 1 oil, diffs, trans and transfer. JD low beams. Upgraded stereo & speakers, Dynamat doors.
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02-04-07, 11:45 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poser
I would have a talk with your lube boys next time you see them...
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Thanks Steve! Great write up.
It's not too likely that the front diff got that dirty in the last 2000 miles is it? Hmmm, I wonder what that shop did with the other couple quarts of Amsoil that I gave them if they didn't go in the front diff....
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1985 FJ60 Stock *SOLD*
1997 LX450 Locked and Stock
1973 VW Super Beetle
1987 Honda CMX250
2005 Subaru Impreza RS (DD)
2005 Subaru Forester (Wife's DD)
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02-04-07, 12:37 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 190
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Hey, if you dont mind me asking, how much was it for all of the parts to do both sides?
Don
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I put 80 axles under my Land Rover, killed the rest of it, then bought an 80.
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02-04-07, 02:56 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Discyota
Hey, if you dont mind me asking, how much was it for all of the parts to do both sides?
Don
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PM cruiserdan... <--- this is a link
Be sure to tell him that you want the cable link between the cam arm and parking brake shoe arm, along with the pin and retainer for it, both sides.
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02-04-07, 03:06 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Athol, MA
Posts: 838
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What did all the parts cost you?
My parking brake mechanism is not working as it should either, Damn New England Salt. I think a freshening up with new parts and anti-seize would fix the problem.
Did you have any issues with the parking brake cable?
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1996 FZJ80. Mostly stock. 285 Cooper STTs, Projector Headlights, Diff. Lock Mod., New 40th two-tone leather.
1997 FZJ80 40th
6" Slee Lift, Sliders, 2" Body Lift, 11.00x16 XL's, 4.88, rear Aussie Locker, ARB Snorkel, ARB Bull Bar, 10,500 MM Hydraulic Winch, LightForce XGT's, Laptop/GPS/, Intercooled Turbo, Diff Switch, 3" SS exhaust.
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02-04-07, 03:10 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Athol, MA
Posts: 838
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Maybe Dan can chime in and let us know what a "kit" that included all of the above would cost us instead of all of us PMing him.... How about it Dan???
I'm sure this is a very common issue for us that live in the regions of the country that use salt on the roads in the winter.
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1996 FZJ80. Mostly stock. 285 Cooper STTs, Projector Headlights, Diff. Lock Mod., New 40th two-tone leather.
1997 FZJ80 40th
6" Slee Lift, Sliders, 2" Body Lift, 11.00x16 XL's, 4.88, rear Aussie Locker, ARB Snorkel, ARB Bull Bar, 10,500 MM Hydraulic Winch, LightForce XGT's, Laptop/GPS/, Intercooled Turbo, Diff Switch, 3" SS exhaust.
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02-04-07, 04:15 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 4,373
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I've got all the parts sitting on the bench waiting for a warmer day. Thanks for the write up, I'll be putting it to use!
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02-04-07, 04:42 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 232
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Brake parts
Parts for both sides cost $97.50 shipped to MN.
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1985 FJ60 Stock *SOLD*
1997 LX450 Locked and Stock
1973 VW Super Beetle
1987 Honda CMX250
2005 Subaru Impreza RS (DD)
2005 Subaru Forester (Wife's DD)
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02-05-07, 08:20 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mooresville, In
Posts: 18
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Do you have all the part #'s?
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95 FZJ80 , non-locker, 285/75/16 Kumho M/T 834's, CDL, FS $3500!!!!
"The Green Booger"
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02-05-07, 11:08 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: I come from the land Down Under
Posts: 130
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Great write up with good picks, must have a look at mine not working too good these days.
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If at first you dont succeed, then skydiving's not for you.. 
91 HZJ80 4.2 diesel
duel batteries, tinted windows, uhf & 27mhz, bushman fridge and other stuff.
www.offroad80s.com
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02-05-07, 11:41 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSGGrunt
Maybe Dan can chime in and let us know what a "kit" that included all of the above would cost us instead of all of us PMing him.... How about it Dan???
I'm sure this is a very common issue for us that live in the regions of the country that use salt on the roads in the winter.
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All pieces, like many things with Toyota, are individual. There is not a 'kit' for this project.
I will put together 'my' recommended parts list shortly.....
Also-
The parking brake shoes were not replaced when doing this, so they are not included in the price that Ryan posted up out here.....
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02-06-07, 07:09 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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Mexican't
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 423
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nice write up thanks for the info and pics.....
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2000 uzj100
1995 Fzj80 Pearl Gray mallcruiser with damage multipliers front and back
scale: 1/4"=1'-0"..........
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02-06-07, 07:49 AM
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#29 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Norwich, VT
Posts: 1,071
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Is your antisieze compatible with rubber? Just wondering...I've always used high temp synthetic brake grease on the caliper pins...I too am a fan of antiseize....Living in New Engalnd I did the same rehab on my '94 about a year or so ago... My parts were much like yours in condiiton. Nice job!
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02-06-07, 08:10 AM
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#30 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 681
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FAQ if not done already!
Great write up!!! I was just about to start another newbie thread about adjusting the parking brake. Now I know what it looks like in there.
Excellent Job!!!
Riley
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1994 FZJ80 Stock White Locked DD / ARB (Winch) Front Bumper
1991 BMW 735i - 3rd owner - Full History - White (Of Course...) - Fixing all of the electrical gremlins... SOLD!!! Ask me about it...
2008 Highlander Sport / Cypress Pearl / 56 Miles And Counting...
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1969 Toyota Land Cruiser, FJ-40
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