Rebuilding Aisin locking hub Locking hub rebuild

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Here we go.... This is an IFS locking hub off my 89 4Runner. 86-95 will be the same. Solid axle 79-85 and many Cruiser hubs are the exact same design, only different sizes, but you probably could not tell from the pictures other than the different spline count.

Notes: I have no idea what these parts are called. Yes, that's about what my hand writing looks like. I assembled them dry so it would be clear how it all goes together, you should grease everything. I used a pair of snapring pliers, a few sizes of standard (flat) screwdrivers, and a small pair of needle nose pliers to do the rebuild. You will need 10 and 12mm sockets to remove the locking hub from the truck, and a small punch or screwdriver and a hammer are a help in removing the cone washers.

Pic 1. There are 17 parts (gasket not pictured) in the locking hub. Only the O ring and gasket are non-metal parts, and do not always need replacing. (I'm not replacing mine yet.)

Pic 2. Gear, washer, gear, and snap-ring. Second gear can be flipped over but I put mine back the same way (Look for wear marks that show even after much scrubbing)

Pic 3. Those 4 parts assembled

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Pic 1. Hub body gears and snap-ring

Pic 2. Assembled

Pic 3. Ready to go back on truck. Note the small split (4 sets) and larger (2) grooves, it's important later.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Here's where it gets tricky...

Pic 1. Spring and pressed bracket, note the bend in the spring against the raised tab and that there is one wrap of spring above each of the inner tabs. Enjoy the Mud salute!!!!

Pic 2. Spring into gear. Note the notes in the pic!

Pic 3. Lock-ring, dial and face. Install spring, ball, and O-ring into dial.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Pic 1. When installing the dial into the face piece, hold dial so that the ball is facing up, and turn the face untill one of the 2 V grooves lines up, it goes in easy then.

Pic 2. Spring/gear assembly, spring, and dial/face assemble. Center spring goes in one way, one end fits tightly around the spring/gear assembly, the other end is larger and goes around the tabs sticking out of the back of the dial face.

Pic 3. Press together and twist to assemble. The tabs on the gear/spring go into the grooves of the dial. But you were watching when you took it apart right?

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Pic 1. Turn the gear until it shortens up like this, then turn the dial to the "free" position, and it's ready to install onto the hub body. Note the tab pointed out goes into the "Large" groove pointed out earlier. That's all there is to it!

Pic 2. Just cause it's soooooo pretty now!!!

I hope this clears up some confusion, and will get some people out there to clean up their hubs!

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

When I disassembled the Free Wheeling Hubs on my Hilux, one side didn't have a Spring that holds the Dog to the rear of the Selector. So when I reassembled 'em, I left out that Spring and have had to leave the Hubs Locked. I was going to go to the Junk Yard to get one, but I was surprised to find out that with a Lock Right in it, it makes no difference when in rear wheel drive.

[dfmorse]

Good work!

...

[WristPin]

Seeing it in picures and desctiption, will make it so much easier to understand. Cause somtimes its so hard to 'splain it by just typing it out. There was a thread from a while back, that this really will help out. You rock, Jerod!!

Oh, and this is the grease I use in my wheel bearings and hubs:



here is the link.

Here is what it says:
CATEGORICALLY THE BEST HIGH TEMPERATURE /MULTI-PURPOSE/ TACKY-ADHESIVE EP GREASE FOR HEAVY DUTY, SEVERE SERVICE APPLICATIONS.

Product Description:
BIGFOOT GREASE is a superior Lithium Complex Grease to provide excellent lubricating qualities over a wide range of temperatures. Designed for work under the toughest conditions in operating temperatures from 40° F to +450° F (4° C to +232° C), with excellent mechanical and chemical stability. BIGFOOT is the grease designed to always ''stay in place'' under the worst operating conditions of water-dirt-mud, providing maximum protection.


I use this grease, cause it is SUPER tacky, and stays in place better than any grease I have ever used. And as a bonus, it is damn near water proof.

If anyone cant find a place to buy this stuff, I can go to my parts house, and pick some up. And I will ship it to you. I think each tube is five or six bucks.
PM if interested.

[PurpleFJ62]

Hey this really helped me out alot. Did this thread already exhist, or did you just post it today?
Turns out I had a spring not installed the right way and your pictures saved the day.
I noticed less vibration in the steering wheel now that my front axles are disengaged.
Best 100 dollar upgrade so far.

thanks

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I just did it. I was bored and felt like playing with my truck. I'm glad it helped you out.

[PurpleFJ62]

this all got started with a cv rebuild. Did all the front bearings and ball joints. Things like that. Afterwards I was thinking of a way to extend the life of the cv's because I dident really want to do it again.
Manual locking hubs were the answer, then I found a set in toledo for 100 bucks. In good shape, not bad for sitiing for 10 years.

Did 1994 4runner ever come with manual hubs? I know it has ADD. I believe that is automoatic disconnecting differential?

I took it for a nice long drive after I finished, steering wheel feels much smoother.

Would love to find a rust free 2nd gen 4runner with a blown engine, they are my favorite 4runner, but the 3rd gen has the engine.

want to say thanks again for the help.

-nate-

[r0nin89]

Another good source for CV problems is a solid axle swap

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by r0nin89

Another good source for CV problems is a solid axle swap

yeah, yeah, yeah.