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Old 03-06-08, 09:43 AM   #1
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HZJ73 roof Rack

I am looking into purchasing an HJZ73 from Japan. The vehicle has what is described as an FRP roof. I think this is removable. Does anyone know whether it is possibe to fit roof bars or a roof box to the FRP roof. Also, how easy is it to remove - do the rear door tops come off?

Many thanks, James


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Old 03-06-08, 09:59 AM   #2
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click here Jim, some pics of my 74 roof rack, same setup as a 73.



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Old 03-06-08, 10:18 AM   #3
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Yes you can fit roof bars or racks as Gold Boy has. The FRP is really easy to take off and on once you find all the bolts. I have seen doors that are two piece I think from a 73 but my 74 is one piece so the need for a tailgate/cargo net/ or some half doors is great. unless you want to run with a open back and no cargo.
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Old 03-06-08, 10:25 AM   #4
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Thanks for the response

I have the choice of two HZJ70s - 1993 51,000kms manual transmission

Auctions Vehicles [Japanese Auto Auction of Import Car]

or 1995 61,000kms auto transmission

Auctions Vehicles [Japanese Auto Auction of Import Car]

Any comments?


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Old 03-06-08, 01:04 PM   #5
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Carefull here, a hzj70 and 73 are very different. A 70 is swb and 73 and 74 is mid. Maybe you were just generalizing with the 70's to choose from line. Personally I like manuals but auto can be beter for cirtain types of wheeling. I see the second has a PTO winch. I love mine. They are really awsome. Other than that look at options it comes with. I believe you couldn't get a 73 with cable locking diffs which is the most sought after and expensive option. Maybe i missed the rest of the info on the links about options but either way its a cruiser and it will ROCK!!!! Be wery of jap auctions though have read some horror stories. Best if someone you trust can look at the vehicals in person. just M2C
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Old 03-06-08, 01:22 PM   #6
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I meant 73s -my mistake

The manual one has a difflock according to the spec. I will probably bid on the manual first and if it goes over my maximum then I'll bid on the auto.

There are quite a few imported Toyotas here in the UK. We can bring them in duty free once they are 10 years old. There are some very clean examples and I have also seen some which are a state. I do have an agent who writes a report beforehand - both have come up with a good recommendation.

I'll see how it goes..

Cheers


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Old 03-06-08, 04:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_Phillips View Post
I am looking into purchasing an HJZ73 from Japan. The vehicle has what is described as an FRP roof. I think this is removable. Does anyone know whether it is possibe to fit roof bars or a roof box to the FRP roof. Also, how easy is it to remove - do the rear door tops come off?

Many thanks, James

The top is removeable,FRP is for fibre reinforced placstic. However its not something you remove and replace in seconds when the weather turns foul.
You also need cut down doors or ones from the rare soft top model that have the removeable half doors.

Gold boys roof rack is one way. The other way is to secure it at the front like a nomal roof rack and use alloy bars bolted to the rear bumper to support the back end.

Others have drilled in the FRP but I predict these holes will elongate over time or much more quickly when you are offroad or in an accident.


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Old 03-07-08, 10:04 AM   #8
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If you off road at all buy th one with the diff locks. You wont regret it. They are expensive to add later and absoulutly essential off road. amazing difference. Worth every penny, plus the parts are worth more later if you ever part out. just M2C! Good luck bidding!!!
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Old 03-07-08, 11:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoFJ73 View Post
The top is removeable,FRP is for fibre reinforced placstic. However its not something you remove and replace in seconds when the weather turns foul.
You also need cut down doors or ones from the rare soft top model that have the removeable half doors.

Gold boys roof rack is one way. The other way is to secure it at the front like a nomal roof rack and use alloy bars bolted to the rear bumper to support the back end.

Others have drilled in the FRP but I predict these holes will elongate over time or much more quickly when you are offroad or in an accident.
I agree on all your remarks Rosco.
Especially about drilling in the FRP-top. I did it that way as well. The wall thickness is minimal. Most of the sides are double walled and that complicates the matter.
Then, the FRP is not up to the forces that act on it. I took the rack off the moment I discovered that cracks were developing in the topcorners of the backdoor openings.
All I used to have on there was I kind of integrated Aluminum fuel tank of about 50 liters. The roofrack/fueltank was bolted to the FRP-top and had large "flaps" that formed the studs on the roof so as to spread the weight.
I now have a completely different setup. See photos below.
The rear attachpoints have backing plates in the same shape. This way the stress is spread over a large area.
It has been on there for more than 35.000 km now, 15000 on a trip to Kazakhstan under very poor conditions and two desert trips totalling about 12000 kms.
During my last trip I had an accident (nose dived into a ditch), strapped gear in the back flew around, my glasses ended upon the dash-board! The roofrack still in place, no damage. I have to admit the roofrack was empty (just the antennas) but I've seen roofracks completely thrown of a rig under similar conditions.
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Old 03-07-08, 04:54 PM   #10
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I agree on all your remarks Rosco.
Especially about drilling in the FRP-top. I did it that way as well. The wall thickness is minimal. Most of the sides are double walled and that complicates the matter.
Then, the FRP is not up to the forces that act on it. I took the rack off the moment I discovered that cracks were developing in the topcorners of the backdoor openings.
All I used to have on there was I kind of integrated Aluminum fuel tank of about 50 liters. The roofrack/fueltank was bolted to the FRP-top and had large "flaps" that formed the studs on the roof so as to spread the weight.
I now have a completely different setup. See photos below.
The rear attachpoints have backing plates in the same shape. This way the stress is spread over a large area.
It has been on there for more than 35.000 km now, 15000 on a trip to Kazakhstan under very poor conditions and two desert trips totalling about 12000 kms.
During my last trip I had an accident (nose dived into a ditch), strapped gear in the back flew around, my glasses ended upon the dash-board! The roofrack still in place, no damage. I have to admit the roofrack was unloaded (just the antennas) but I've seen roofracks completely thrown of a rig under similar conditions.
One dealer in oz ,I think its Rhino ,is developing a roof rack for FRP tops.
My 4wd shop refuses to stock them because it involves drilling into the top.
The FRP tops are not easy to find used,so you have to look after the one you have.
Have you ever considered getting a troopy or a cab chassis?


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1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL
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Old 03-07-08, 05:02 PM   #11
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Troopy or cab chassis?... the extra space would be useful I suppose, but most of the time it is me and the dogs.. I need more space than a 70 (for camping trips and driving down thorough France for the summer holidays) a 73 gives me that. The roof rack is for the family trips. I don't need to put much weight up there, even if it is just the sleeping bags and the cereal boxes, that makes more space elsewhere..


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Old 03-07-08, 10:44 PM   #12
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this is my roof rack made from stainless steel, it even has spot light mounts at the front, any half decent fabrication shop will be able to build you one to suit your needs
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Old 03-08-08, 03:16 AM   #13
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Looking the pic of the 73 I hope to buy (should find out today if i have it)

It seems to have some roof bars on it -

Auctions Vehicles [Japanese Auto Auction of Import Car]

I have not seen these before - maybe they are an aftermarket option which has been fitted? It's not clear from the pic.


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Old 03-08-08, 05:14 AM   #14
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this is my roof rack made from stainless steel, it even has spot light mounts at the front, any half decent fabrication shop will be able to build you one to suit your needs
Wow, stainless steel. How heavy is that?
Can hardly believe it's just sitting on top of the FRP.
Many of the roofracks I've seen in combination with FRP-tops were effectively sitting on top of a construction underneath the top. Most of the time with bolts through the top as to fix the rack to the construction.
Everyone I've ever spoken to who had a roofrack sitting directly on the FRP-top was complaining about cracks developing.


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Old 03-08-08, 05:17 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by roscoFJ73 View Post
Have you ever considered getting a troopy or a cab chassis?
Cab chassis is rare over here.
When buying my 73 I considered the 70 too short, the troopy too long.
Now, looking back, I sometimes regret not having bought a troopy, but I love my 73 and cannot separate....


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http://www.ourwebspot.nl/English_index.html
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Old 03-08-08, 03:35 PM   #16
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Wow, stainless steel. How heavy is that?
Can hardly believe it's just sitting on top of the FRP.
Many of the roofracks I've seen in combination with FRP-tops were effectively sitting on top of a construction underneath the top. Most of the time with bolts through the top as to fix the rack to the construction.
Everyone I've ever spoken to who had a roofrack sitting directly on the FRP-top was complaining about cracks developing.
the rack is bolted to 5inch wide stainless steel plate underneath so no cracks and silicon on both sides so it does not leak
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