SST's for front axle rebuild?

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I've found out that I don't need all the SST's as listed in the FSM. What about the steering knuckle centering gauge? Looks like the process might be important, but in my searches I have never even heard of it or the process. Got all the basics and then some (thanks to my spree at HF) and I think I'll get a tie rod end puller, even though it is not completely neccessary to pull the tie rod, but I want to get the Knuckle arm preload right.
Any thoughts on the steering knuckle centering gauge? (pg FA-24 in FSM, SST 09634-60013)
 
Sorry if I was unclear. I don't have the technology right now, or else I'd post a pic. What I am wondering about is a rod that is inserted through the bearing holes in the top and bottom of the knuckle housing and a plug that is inserted where the knuckle spindle attaches. The plug scribes a line on the rod. There is then a process described in the FSM which allows you find the needed shim thickness. I guess I am wondering if this step is important. I have searched and searched and have never seen mention of this step, which leads me to believe that it all goes back together the same way it came apart, and there is no need to figure out new shim dimensions.
Funny that you replied, I was just checking out your bull bar/winch install. Nice
 
If you're able to replace each shim in exactly the same orientation as when you pulled them apart. You should be ok without the tool. But know that if you get it wrong, you're looking at rebuilding it again soon.

Barring the tool, even a home made one, this is the best you can do.


.
 
So long as you replace shims in the same place as originally and same thickness I don't use it. If I'm doing a mini disc swap on an older 'Cruiser then I use it and I have one.
IF you need one and wish to rent mine PM me!
 
I've heard that if you replace the trunnion bearings & races you need to set the shims anew. The procedure looks pretty intricate.
 
cruiser_guy said:
So long as you replace shims in the same place as originally and same thickness I don't use it. If I'm doing a mini disc swap on an older 'Cruiser then I use it and I have one.
IF you need one and wish to rent mine PM me!

A fish scale works quite well too, for checking preloads. I haven't done my rebuild yet (going to do it at home and have my dad help me, and haven't had the time yet), but I've helped some people do other jobs where preloads needed to be checked, and they always had fish scales.

Also, the knuckle rebuild DVD is a HUGE help. I'd go so far as to say it's a necessity. Makes the job seem like much less of a daunting task for those who have yet to do it.
 
Ryan S. said:
Sorry if I was unclear. I don't have the technology right now, or else I'd post a pic. What I am wondering about is a rod that is inserted through the bearing holes in the top and bottom of the knuckle housing and a plug that is inserted where the knuckle spindle attaches. The plug scribes a line on the rod. There is then a process described in the FSM which allows you find the needed shim thickness. I guess I am wondering if this step is important. I have searched and searched and have never seen mention of this step, which leads me to believe that it all goes back together the same way it came apart, and there is no need to figure out new shim dimensions.
Funny that you replied, I was just checking out your bull bar/winch install. Nice

I fully agree with your opinion and I also want to have that SST but it's impossible to get that SST in Korea.
I did knuckle swap. My FJ62 had front drum brake from factory that I swapped to disc brake system using with parts from US model of FJ60.
When doing that swapping , I need that SST but I don't have.
If shim thickness is not correct, birfield axle can't located exactly center of birfield axle seal that will cause oil leak early.
The way I did was checking of knuckle preload.

1. Install original shim and tighten all knuckle bolts by correct toque then check preload.
2. Preload might be not correct because knuckle was changed.
3. Than disassemble knuckle again and add or remove shim(s) and assemble again.
4. Check preload again.
5. repeat 2 to 4 again and again until obtain correct preload value.(Very time consuming :crybaby: )
6. Measure length between axle and bearing (top and bottom)
7. If they are not same, disassemble again and make them same only using with already installed shim.

This is what I did :doh:
If I have correct SST then I could do it very easily but I don't have that I must spend hust amount of time and labor instead of money.

Oh, Min Seok
 
I'll try the exact shim replacement route. By then I should have a digital cam and will take good pictures and label carefully. It only makes sense that if it goes back in the way it came out that it should be OK....that is if it was right in the first place.
 
Ryan S. said:
I'll try the exact shim replacement route. By then I should have a digital cam and will take good pictures and label carefully. It only makes sense that if it goes back in the way it came out that it should be OK....that is if it was right in the first place.


Since you are putting different bearings in the clearances may be slightly different between the new and old. They may also have been done incorrectly in the past.
If you want to do it right, get the SST, just do it the way that Toyota says. Then you can be the envy of all your cruiser friends.
 
Is there a good source for SSt's?
 
Ryan S. said:
Is there a good source for SSt's?

There's a place in Michigan that sells it for about $150 or you can rent mine!
 
$150 Holy Sh_t! It might be cheaper to drive to Guatamala and rent yours.
 
a quick question-sorry for the hijack. if the knuckles are rebuilt after installing a lift, will that affect the shims that are needed?
 
This is the tool you mean:

KnuckleTool.jpg


The scale doesn't come with it, the one in that picture is a surveyor's taping scale, much better than the cheapo fish scales that you find at WalMart.

It's not absolutely necessary to have the tool, like others have said you can just put the same shims back and you're probably fine. Be sure to check the bearing preload, it's very important.
 
saint60 said:
a quick question-sorry for the hijack. if the knuckles are rebuilt after installing a lift, will that affect the shims that are needed?

Nope.
 
KLF said:
This is the tool you mean:

KnuckleTool.jpg


The scale doesn't come with it, the one in that picture is a surveyor's taping scale, much better than the cheapo fish scales that you find at WalMart.

It's not absolutely necessary to have the tool, like others have said you can just put the same shims back and you're probably fine. Be sure to check the bearing preload, it's very important.


That's one impressive tool (if I only had a nickle for every time I've heard that:D ) I would rather do the job right and not have to worry or redo it, so I guess I'll try toget my hands on one. For the scale, I think I can get a taping scale here at work or else I'll look for the best one I can find. I don't like cheapo stuff.
 
Well, I just ordered the steering knuckle centering centering gauge and tie rod end puller form SPX/OTC. I had to ship it next day air. The ironic thing is that the warehouse is right by my hometown in MN. I was just back there for the holidays and I drove by it 4x. Coulda just picked it up if I only knew.
Thanks everyone for all the input. I just need to get the hub socket and then I think I'm ready to go.
 
Last edited:
Ryan S. said:
Well, I just ordered the steering knuckle centering centering gauge and tie rod end puller form SPX/OTC. I had to ship it next day air. The ironic thing is that the warehouse is right by my hometown in MN. I was just back there for the holidays and I drove by it 4x. Coulda just picked it up if I only knew.
Thanks everyone for all the input. I just need to get the hub socket and then I think I'm ready to go.

Could you please post the tool number, ordering info, and maybe approx. cost?

Thanks,
Andy
 
From OTC it's about 113 bucks plus shipping and insurance.
 

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