Another custom rear bumper (1 Viewer)

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TLC Norway

woodwelder
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Threads
18
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2,411
Location
North of Norway
So, i got tired of beating up the oem crappy rear bumper, it was too far back, too far down, not protecting the rusted out quarters, did not have tow points, and the 2"hitch receiver was always dragging across rocks...
Also i'm on 2" bodylift, so the gap to the tailgate was ugly.

Decided to do something about it.:wrench:
(updated this to my build thread, but wanted to share this in another thread anyways... :repost:)

Old crap:
P2250478.jpg


Final result:
DSCF2526.jpg

Nice and high:
DSCF2600.jpg


DSCF2625.jpg


Pix of process will follow...
 
first, i got rid of this crap...
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I moved the tow bar up and in to gain departure angle.
Fully welded, cut out the rear 4" of frame and boxed it in.
DSCF2352.jpg


Bent and welded up the main section:
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Tacked pieces together:
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The holes in the center is where i welded in nuts, to bolt in from underneath of the receiver. Mounts also figured.
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Rear side mounts bolts on top of the bracket welded to the receiver ends at the frame.
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Bumper side of the mounts, also has the d-rings mounted underneath and a gusset to the mounting bracket.
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Cut, heated and bent the aluminum diamond plate:
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Detail of aluminum. You can also spot the reinforced middle section that bolts up to the receiver center.
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Also decided :hmm: to narrow down the quarter protection at an angle:
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Another shot of the narrowing/height adjustment of the sides. A lot of cutting, welding and grinding. Bumper up side down.
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bumper primed... first time i see all the shapes as one piece. :bounce:
DSCF2492.jpg


Diamond plate painted black, but wore down all the high spots, as they eventually will get worn there anyway. Plus it looks cool!
DSCF2501.jpg


Added a slight rough texture to the bumper paint, as it is a lot easier to touch up battle scars, and hides out some of the rough spots after grinding.
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Some of you might think it's a wierd shape, but i did sacrifice a few inches of departure angle to get those steps on the rear main sides. Love to be able to step there to reach the roof. Also, the middle section is recessed for hazzle free access to the hitch mounting. :doh:

Also, i'm thinkering on a driver side mounted swing down tire carrier...
And sliders plus front bumper in the same style with a 8274 in it. The PTO winch will go underneath the back with a solid skid plate all the way back to the bumper. Gotta love protection, right! :steer:
 
wow!!! i really like that bumper.. you wanna make me one?
 
Great design and fab work. I'll take the 2nd one if available but the shipping from Norway would be steep!
 
This is not your 1st rodeo !

Good looking bumper & great looking welds.

John
 
Thanks guys, appreciate it.
This is custom built, which means trial and error.
Guys over here ask me to make another, but no can do. The bent steel is some kind of railroad piece, and the placement of the bumper, brackets, side supports and tow bar depends on the rigs setup.
Takes some time, and almost every rig is invidually set up.
Also, i got the BL that allows me to tuck it so nice and high. (one of the reasons why i did BL)
The body work also takes time... and body work sucks...
If i were to do it again to some other rig, i would need the rig in my garage, lots of time and some more steel.
Cant wait to get going on the front and side armor, also the skid underneath.
Any ideas welcome ;)

Darren, the jackstands you refer to are just bricks, cant see them failing. ;) Rig is on its wheels,
its just 10in of ground to have the right work height.

John, this is my first bumper design, if that's what you mean by rodeo ;) I have just made small fabs before, but i do love working with metal this thickness.

Sorry for the mess in my garage, but i do like it that way.
-Mud, metal, blood and beer!
 
Looks great! Very professional. I love your idea to bend the diamond plate down instead of just cutting it to match the top of the bumper. Really adds to the look of it.

Damn I'd love to bring my 62 to Norway for some wheeling, lutefisk and lefse.
 
That looks sharp!
 
Looks great. Cut out the cancer and replace with heavy metal. Can't wait to see what you do with the front and side!

I did cut it out, welded in a 1,6mm sheet underneath the quarter.
But i do need to shape it up some more on the rear wells, does not need to be beautiful either, as i am going to run 61-flares.

Looks great! Very professional. I love your idea to bend the diamond plate down instead of just cutting it to match the top of the bumper. Really adds to the look of it.

Damn I'd love to bring my 62 to Norway for some wheeling, lutefisk and lefse.

That was the idea of the diamond plate. I used my die to get threads in the bumper, and countersunk the bolts into it, so the bolts does not stick out.
Not sure how to do the diamond plate on the sliders and front bumper, but probably something similar, with the part bending down where you likely step.
I love to stand on my front bumper while wrencing, so i need that in the calculations too. And i hate having the hellas in front of the radiator, pobably move them a bit too.

Bring your 62 over here, i'll take you for some trips ;)
Next year i'm running the Lapland Trophy, maybe the Arctic Trophy, that's one hell of a ride...
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just adding that the bumper performs flawlessly after some testing.
side sliders move up about 1cm when the rig is hanging on it. I think thats good enough. the tow points are really stout, and no movement or cracks anywhere.
 
TLC, great looking rig all over!! I'll be watching with interest how you attach your 61 flares as I have bought some for mine also, but haven't had the time yet to work out where to put the holes in the guards for the mounting tabs.:cool:
 
thanks, guys!

my flares are remolded fiberglass, epoxy reinforced. so i have to be a bit greative when mounting them.
Maybe i'll drill out holes in the fiberglass, and glue in nuts with epoxy. that way i can make small brackets and bolt them on from inside the body. have not decided, but i'll let u know.
Theres so many tings on the list first. it would be perfect if i could stretch the flares a bit, so that i can cut out more wheel well for my iroks, and then cover it up with the flares when running 35's.

I like not having flares in the woods, as there are many times they would have met a tree or rock. but when i come home, and look at all the mud, i wish the flares and mudflaps were on there...
 
Wow, talk about one-of-a-kind! I wish I'd seen this before I decided to weld on new quarter panels to fix the rust on mine...they looked just like yours. I like the look of the chopped rear-end, no worries that you'll end up smashing it on a rock now!
 
Wow, talk about one-of-a-kind! I wish I'd seen this before I decided to weld on new quarter panels to fix the rust on mine...they looked just like yours. I like the look of the chopped rear-end, no worries that you'll end up smashing it on a rock now!

Thats true! The long low rear end on the sixties are one bad anchor.
Having the 2" bodylift allowed me to tuck this bumper high and smooth.

Thanks
 

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