FJ60 hydro assist porting..

Mace · 05-21-07, 01:00 PM

Figured I would outline this here..

Tapping a FJ60 box for full hydro is not a complicated task.
Tools needed,
14mm Socket and ratchet,
Pittman arm puller (and a big socket or crescent wrench)
Drill (Drill press makes for straighter holes)
7/16" Drill bit
1/4" NPT pipe tap.
A bit of grease.
Something to wash ALL of the metal pieces out.

It is up to you if you want to replace the seals or not. Spector does sell them individualy. Or you can get the kit for something around $120 or so..

First thing, remove the pittman nut and the pittman arm.
The nut typically is easy to remove, the arm tends to cause more difficulty..
I got lucky with a 2 arm puller. Most have had better luck with the Snap on pittman arm puller.
Basically you put a TON of pressure on the bolt on the puller, then smack the end of the bolt with a hammer. This breaks the tension of the pittman arm and makes it come off a lot easier. Penetrating oil helps quite a bit as well.

Once the pittman arm is off you can remove the top cover that resides above the sector shaft. Be aware that it will not just "pop" off. It has a O ring that may make it tough. The Sector Shaft is also threaded into the top plate (center adjusting nut) so you need to remove the lock nut and thread the "bolt" back out of the top plate.

Mace · 05-21-07, 01:04 PM

After taking the top plate off you can slide the sector shaft out by pushing from the pittman end up. The sector shaft actually slides towards where the top plate is. Be careful of the orientation of the teeth on the sector shaft. There are certian positins where the teeth can bind during dissassembly..

Mace · 05-21-07, 01:11 PM

With the Sector shaft removed you can pull the worm drive.

You do not have to get into the heart of the worm drive. It does not have to come apart. You just have to pull it from the actual PS box case. 4 bolts on the face and you are done.

Again, there are seals involved. Be careful when taking things apart.. They might be sticky..

Mace · 05-21-07, 01:18 PM

Once you remove the worm drive and the sector shaft all you need to do is clean the tar out of the housing and prep it for drilling/tapping.

The locations are within the TOYODA text and the heel of the housing itself.

Mace · 05-21-07, 01:25 PM

Drill out both spots with a 7/16" drill and tap them with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap.

Then CLEAN ALL OF THE METAL SHAVINGS OUT!!

Should not be that hard. But if you do not, you will kill the teflon seals in the box and potentialy mar the worm or the housing.

then it is back to reassembly, I typically use some grease or oil on all of the seals during assembly..

Worm drive goes in, Sector shaft (again be aware of the orientation, there is only a certian amoutn of teeth on the worm gear and the sector shaft, they have to mesh properly), top plate, and pittman arm.

All done.

(BTW, if you have the adjustment procedure for the sector shaft I would love to see the text)

You do want to be aware of how far the threaded portion goes into the heel of the steering box, you do not want it to go much farther than the thickness of the box. Or it can potentialy impact the worm drive.

Box tapped and ready for paint.

I typically run a -6An fitting to 1/4" NPT for my outlets. This allows me to easily hook up the hoses at a later time. Currently I just have the ports plugged off.

I'll upload the rest of the pics later. The board is being cranky..

NocalFJ60 · 05-21-07, 01:33 PM

Good writeup. Can you explain what hydro assist is? It uses a hydraulic ram on the steering to help with big tires? The stock power steering pump have to be modified too?

Mace · 05-21-07, 01:48 PM

Stock PS pump can be modified with the Redneckram.com writeup.

And yes, basicaly you place a hydraulic ram on the tie rod for assist with bigger tires or to make up the difference from lockers.

euclid · 05-21-07, 01:51 PM

What color are you going to paint it?

Nice writeup, good tech.

Mace · 05-21-07, 01:54 PM

Ahh the true tech..

Hammerite Black

You could have the box apart, drilled, tapped and back together easily in an hour if you were prepared..

euclid · 05-21-07, 01:56 PM

I was scared to pull mine appart 2 years ago when it needed a rebuild. West Texas rebuilt and drilled and taped mine for $150, not bad.

NocalFJ60 · 05-21-07, 01:59 PM

I have an older box I took apart to play around and all the bb's came rolling out. Have to figure out how to put it back together someday and rebuild it.

Mace · 05-21-07, 02:05 PM

BB's are easy to deal with.

If you look at this picture you can see that there is a tube that runs between two holes. that tube keeps the BB's flowing around the worm shaft. If you take half of the tube off you can feed the BB's into the valve assembly one at a time. You use the hole that is farthest from the splined section and gently twist the steering shaft allowing the BB's to roll around the worm gear till it is almost filled. Then you put a bit of grease in the other tube allong with the rest of the BB'sand slide them together.

It sounds a hell of a lot more complicated than it really is..

brokenparts · 05-21-07, 03:06 PM

Good write up Mace...

Winslow · 05-21-07, 03:09 PM

I just had Proffitt do mine. So far, so good. He gave me some little caps so I am isolate the ram, should I ever blow a hydrolic line. Speaking of which, I blew the high pressure line, pump to box, the first day on the trail! Marlin was kind enough to give me a ride into town to grab a new hose. The A/C delco pump is metric on the back, so a stockhose from a toyota T100 pick-up worked great! The steering system is only as good as it's weakest link, in this case it was a 10,000lb ram and 39.5" tires vs. a 20 year old Aisin hose. Hose lost.

Mace · 05-21-07, 03:29 PM

lol.

Yep, Toy stuff and Sag thread patterns are identical. Makes life MUCH easier.

I ran the blue aeroquip stuff in my 40. Probably gonna do it in the 60 as well.

tclndcrz · 05-21-07, 03:33 PM

great info!

this should be in the faq for sure.

euclid · 05-21-07, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tclndcrz

great info!
this should be in the faq for sure.

Done. Yall can always PM me to add stuff to the FAQ if you want. I don't always know what the community considers valuable enough for easy FAQ reference.

Mace · 05-21-07, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by euclid

Done. Yall can always PM me to add stuff to the FAQ if you want. I don't always know what the community considers valuable enough for easy FAQ reference.

You mean I said something that was valuable??

I am gonna call my wife, she aint gonna believe it

euclid · 05-21-07, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

You mean I said something that was valuable??

I am gonna call my wife, she aint gonna believe it

yep, 1 out of 7344 aint bad!

green73 · 07-15-07, 01:50 PM

I took mine apart, not paying attention to this thread. BB's went everywhere. Took a few minutes to figure it all out. It all went back together nicely. I just gotta get lines, a inline cooler, and brackets for the ram. Yeah I am going really slowly with this.

brokenparts · 07-15-07, 11:34 PM

Finally got mine all hooked up and on the road... works well so far.

Mace · 08-27-08, 10:51 AM

BTW, I just found a source for rebuild kits other than Specter.

Cost is ~ $55.00 shipped. I have one on order, if it works well, I'll be posting up.

brokenparts · 08-27-08, 11:17 AM

that's cheap!!! let us know how it goes!

Spook50 · 08-27-08, 12:12 PM

Good writeup. Question for anyone who might know, though: Are the PS gearboxes the same between 60s and 62s? I've wanted to do this for quite some time for when I eventually lift my rig and put larger than 31" tires on it.

I wonder if the PS pump mod procedure is the same between both trucks too, now that I think of it...

Mace · 08-27-08, 12:27 PM

There are 2 different bolt patterns on the mounting flange. The internals are the same.

euclid · 08-27-08, 12:28 PM

I have a redneck ram rebuilt and ported fj60 box on my 62. Bolted up fine.

05-21-07, 01:00 PM	#1
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	FJ60 hydro assist porting.. Figured I would outline this here.. Tapping a FJ60 box for full hydro is not a complicated task. Tools needed, 14mm Socket and ratchet, Pittman arm puller (and a big socket or crescent wrench) Drill (Drill press makes for straighter holes) 7/16" Drill bit 1/4" NPT pipe tap. A bit of grease. Something to wash ALL of the metal pieces out. It is up to you if you want to replace the seals or not. Spector does sell them individualy. Or you can get the kit for something around $120 or so.. First thing, remove the pittman nut and the pittman arm. The nut typically is easy to remove, the arm tends to cause more difficulty.. I got lucky with a 2 arm puller. Most have had better luck with the Snap on pittman arm puller. Basically you put a TON of pressure on the bolt on the puller, then smack the end of the bolt with a hammer. This breaks the tension of the pittman arm and makes it come off a lot easier. Penetrating oil helps quite a bit as well. Once the pittman arm is off you can remove the top cover that resides above the sector shaft. Be aware that it will not just "pop" off. It has a O ring that may make it tough. The Sector Shaft is also threaded into the top plate (center adjusting nut) so you need to remove the lock nut and thread the "bolt" back out of the top plate. Attached Images __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game." Last edited by Mace; 05-21-07 at 01:40 PM.

05-21-07, 01:04 PM	#2
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	After taking the top plate off you can slide the sector shaft out by pushing from the pittman end up. The sector shaft actually slides towards where the top plate is. Be careful of the orientation of the teeth on the sector shaft. There are certian positins where the teeth can bind during dissassembly.. Attached Images __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

05-21-07, 01:11 PM	#3
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	With the Sector shaft removed you can pull the worm drive. You do not have to get into the heart of the worm drive. It does not have to come apart. You just have to pull it from the actual PS box case. 4 bolts on the face and you are done. Again, there are seals involved. Be careful when taking things apart.. They might be sticky.. Attached Images __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game." Last edited by Mace; 05-21-07 at 03:56 PM.

05-21-07, 01:18 PM	#4
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	Once you remove the worm drive and the sector shaft all you need to do is clean the tar out of the housing and prep it for drilling/tapping. The locations are within the TOYODA text and the heel of the housing itself. Attached Images __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

05-21-07, 01:25 PM	#5
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	Drill out both spots with a 7/16" drill and tap them with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap. Then CLEAN ALL OF THE METAL SHAVINGS OUT!! Should not be that hard. But if you do not, you will kill the teflon seals in the box and potentialy mar the worm or the housing. then it is back to reassembly, I typically use some grease or oil on all of the seals during assembly.. Worm drive goes in, Sector shaft (again be aware of the orientation, there is only a certian amoutn of teeth on the worm gear and the sector shaft, they have to mesh properly), top plate, and pittman arm. All done. (BTW, if you have the adjustment procedure for the sector shaft I would love to see the text) You do want to be aware of how far the threaded portion goes into the heel of the steering box, you do not want it to go much farther than the thickness of the box. Or it can potentialy impact the worm drive. Box tapped and ready for paint. I typically run a -6An fitting to 1/4" NPT for my outlets. This allows me to easily hook up the hoses at a later time. Currently I just have the ports plugged off. I'll upload the rest of the pics later. The board is being cranky.. Attached Images __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game." Last edited by Mace; 05-21-07 at 01:40 PM.

05-21-07, 01:33 PM	#6
NocalFJ60 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: San Francisco Bay Area Posts: 2,752	Good writeup. Can you explain what hydro assist is? It uses a hydraulic ram on the steering to help with big tires? The stock power steering pump have to be modified too? __________________ 1982 FJ60 Northern California TLCA/PMC Member "He who throws mud only loses ground."

05-21-07, 01:48 PM	#7
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	Stock PS pump can be modified with the Redneckram.com writeup. And yes, basicaly you place a hydraulic ram on the tie rod for assist with bigger tires or to make up the difference from lockers. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

05-21-07, 01:51 PM	#8
euclid IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2002 Location: Jackson, MS TLCA# 13014 Posts: 2,966	What color are you going to paint it? Nice writeup, good tech. __________________ Greg Thompson CottonLand Cruisers 00 Camry: Stock 5SFE - 27 MPG 89 FJ62: OME 2.5, 2" BL, Superior shackles, F250 towers, 315 BFG KM2's on zj80 wheels, Extreme A440, FF,4:88,RDB,longs,ARB front,Lockright rear,Warn XD9K in Rover AL bumper, Kaymar, Wildernes Roofrack, Marlin Sliders, SROR 1/4 sliders.

05-21-07, 01:54 PM	#9
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	Ahh the true tech.. Hammerite Black You could have the box apart, drilled, tapped and back together easily in an hour if you were prepared.. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

05-21-07, 01:56 PM	#10
euclid IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2002 Location: Jackson, MS TLCA# 13014 Posts: 2,966	I was scared to pull mine appart 2 years ago when it needed a rebuild. West Texas rebuilt and drilled and taped mine for $150, not bad. __________________ Greg Thompson CottonLand Cruisers 00 Camry: Stock 5SFE - 27 MPG 89 FJ62: OME 2.5, 2" BL, Superior shackles, F250 towers, 315 BFG KM2's on zj80 wheels, Extreme A440, FF,4:88,RDB,longs,ARB front,Lockright rear,Warn XD9K in Rover AL bumper, Kaymar, Wildernes Roofrack, Marlin Sliders, SROR 1/4 sliders.

05-21-07, 01:59 PM	#11
NocalFJ60 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: San Francisco Bay Area Posts: 2,752	I have an older box I took apart to play around and all the bb's came rolling out. Have to figure out how to put it back together someday and rebuild it. __________________ 1982 FJ60 Northern California TLCA/PMC Member "He who throws mud only loses ground."

05-21-07, 02:05 PM	#12
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	BB's are easy to deal with. If you look at this picture you can see that there is a tube that runs between two holes. that tube keeps the BB's flowing around the worm shaft. If you take half of the tube off you can feed the BB's into the valve assembly one at a time. You use the hole that is farthest from the splined section and gently twist the steering shaft allowing the BB's to roll around the worm gear till it is almost filled. Then you put a bit of grease in the other tube allong with the rest of the BB'sand slide them together. It sounds a hell of a lot more complicated than it really is.. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

05-21-07, 03:06 PM	#13
brokenparts IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hillsboro, OR TLCA# 16127 Posts: 2,351	Good write up Mace... __________________ "Just bump it" I am offended by reality all the time. http://www.cascadecruisers.com/ http://www.myspace.com/zachsu ROTW: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/198064-rotw-brokenparts-fj-60-a.html

05-21-07, 03:09 PM	#14
Winslow IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Jackson Hole, Wyoming Posts: 275	I just had Proffitt do mine. So far, so good. He gave me some little caps so I am isolate the ram, should I ever blow a hydrolic line. Speaking of which, I blew the high pressure line, pump to box, the first day on the trail! Marlin was kind enough to give me a ride into town to grab a new hose. The A/C delco pump is metric on the back, so a stockhose from a toyota T100 pick-up worked great! The steering system is only as good as it's weakest link, in this case it was a 10,000lb ram and 39.5" tires vs. a 20 year old Aisin hose. Hose lost. __________________ have wrench, will travel.... '85 FJ60 ramjet 350, atlas 3.8, NV4500, Dana60s, 39.5" Swampers,hyrdo steer '08 Tundra 5.7iForce, leveled, with 305s '06 Audi S4

05-21-07, 03:29 PM	#15
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	lol. Yep, Toy stuff and Sag thread patterns are identical. Makes life MUCH easier. I ran the blue aeroquip stuff in my 40. Probably gonna do it in the 60 as well. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

05-21-07, 03:33 PM	#16
tclndcrz IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Bozeman MT TLCA# 14430 Posts: 933	great info! this should be in the faq for sure. __________________ -Thomas Crumrine TLCA #14430 88 FJ62 33x12.5 BFG A/Ts, front parabolics, ARB bumper, warn xd9000, 2badfjs sliders, aussie lockers, longfields, durabak, flowmaster, rear disks...

07-15-07, 01:50 PM	#20
green73 What's broken now? Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Nomadic Phase TLCA# 12222 Posts: 685	I took mine apart, not paying attention to this thread. BB's went everywhere. Took a few minutes to figure it all out. It all went back together nicely. I just gotta get lines, a inline cooler, and brackets for the ram. Yeah I am going really slowly with this. __________________ 1973 FJ40: SOA, Locked, Caged, etc........... NEVER DONE! 1991 FJ80: Stock.... for a while.

07-15-07, 11:34 PM	#21
brokenparts IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hillsboro, OR TLCA# 16127 Posts: 2,351	Finally got mine all hooked up and on the road... works well so far. __________________ "Just bump it" I am offended by reality all the time. http://www.cascadecruisers.com/ http://www.myspace.com/zachsu ROTW: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/198064-rotw-brokenparts-fj-60-a.html

08-27-08, 10:51 AM	#22
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	BTW, I just found a source for rebuild kits other than Specter. Cost is ~ $55.00 shipped. I have one on order, if it works well, I'll be posting up. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

08-27-08, 11:17 AM	#23
brokenparts IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hillsboro, OR TLCA# 16127 Posts: 2,351	that's cheap!!! let us know how it goes! __________________ "Just bump it" I am offended by reality all the time. http://www.cascadecruisers.com/ http://www.myspace.com/zachsu ROTW: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/198064-rotw-brokenparts-fj-60-a.html

08-27-08, 12:12 PM	#24
Spook50 sp0rk sp0rk sp0rk! Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 1,462 Blog Entries: 2	Good writeup. Question for anyone who might know, though: Are the PS gearboxes the same between 60s and 62s? I've wanted to do this for quite some time for when I eventually lift my rig and put larger than 31" tires on it. I wonder if the PS pump mod procedure is the same between both trucks too, now that I think of it... __________________ '88 FJ62 W/ 240K miles, desmogged, stock SUA W/ full length Add-A-Leafs, Tuffy console, TaskLED domelight, Mallory ignition, four wheel discs, Aussie sliding windows Monniepoo: - Did she smoke with her pussy?

08-27-08, 12:27 PM	#25
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,983	There are 2 different bolt patterns on the mounting flange. The internals are the same. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

08-27-08, 12:28 PM	#26
euclid IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2002 Location: Jackson, MS TLCA# 13014 Posts: 2,966	I have a redneck ram rebuilt and ported fj60 box on my 62. Bolted up fine. __________________ Greg Thompson CottonLand Cruisers 00 Camry: Stock 5SFE - 27 MPG 89 FJ62: OME 2.5, 2" BL, Superior shackles, F250 towers, 315 BFG KM2's on zj80 wheels, Extreme A440, FF,4:88,RDB,longs,ARB front,Lockright rear,Warn XD9K in Rover AL bumper, Kaymar, Wildernes Roofrack, Marlin Sliders, SROR 1/4 sliders.